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I have a friend who’s Ball has a respiratory infection. She can't figure out how in the world he got it. She is extremely clean and doesn't mix her snakes, also massively sanitizes in between handlings.

Any input is appreciated.
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~ Noel ~
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The temp is good for the cool end, but it needs to be higher at the warm end, maybe 90-92. If it's a minor RI it could benefit from an all around temp hike to 90 degrees, this may cure it. The humidity may be a bit high, but I think I would work on the temps first. Between 50-70% humidity is a good average. hope this helps.

Quig

>>The temp is good for the cool end, but it needs to be higher at the warm end, maybe 90-92. If it's a minor RI it could benefit from an all around temp hike to 90 degrees, this may cure it. The humidity may be a bit high, but I think I would work on the temps first. Between 50-70% humidity is a good average. hope this helps.
>>
>>Quig

Right, that temp (80)was for her warm end.

So 70% isn't too high a humidity? Do you think 80% would cause respiratory issues?
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~ Noel ~
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For my tnak, I usually keep my cool end just over 80 (82-84) and the warm end (87-90 hot spot), my humidity is usually high around 65-67% and I bump it up for sheds. The heat is most likely the culprit, also something as simple as a draft going through the cage or if it sits near a window could be causes too. If it's early have your friend take it to a vet for antibotics and it should kick it real easy, if you wait to long it's harder to get rid of.
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Tosha

8.15.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and currently un-named)
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>>For my tnak, I usually keep my cool end just over 80 (82-84) and the warm end (87-90 hot spot), my humidity is usually high around 65-67% and I bump it up for sheds. The heat is most likely the culprit, also something as simple as a draft going through the cage or if it sits near a window could be causes too. If it's early have your friend take it to a vet for antibotics and it should kick it real easy, if you wait to long it's harder to get rid of.

>>Tosha

Thanks. She's already been to the vet and has the Ball on meds. I have been trying to convince her to bump up the heat and use a thermostat, but haven't been getting through. I thought for sure it would be the humidity that was the culprit. The heat, huh? Good to know.

Thanks for your input, everyone.
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~ Noel ~
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I'm inclined to go with the low temp combined with higher than normal humidity. However, the temp is probably key here. Now that it is already sick, your friend will need to increase temps and keep them high 24X7 until the animal is cured. I would go 80 degrees in the cool end and 90 degrees in the warm end. These are ambient temps and not localize spots.
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Jay A. Martin
Jay Martin Reptiles

>>I'm inclined to go with the low temp combined with higher than normal humidity. However, the temp is probably key here. Now that it is already sick, your friend will need to increase temps and keep them high 24X7 until the animal is cured. I would go 80 degrees in the cool end and 90 degrees in the warm end. These are ambient temps and not localize spots.

>>Jay A. Martin

Thanks. So, no lowering of temps at night? That's what I thought. I think she needs to revamp her heating system. She's using an under the tank, a UV light during the day, and no thermostat. :~X
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~ Noel ~
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78-80 in cool end, 90-92 warm end, localized hot spot of 92-95.
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Jay A. Martin
Jay Martin Reptiles

...no less than 85F at cool end and 95F at the warm end...this is known as THERMOTHERAPY...humidity around 50%...this'll work better if RTI is caught EARLY...if not, even these temps may not do the trick...in that case: proper antibiotic treatment, COUPLED WITH thermotherapy...

good luck!

Scott J. Michaels DVM
Serpent City