Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I just bought several used Vision 422s for really cheap and have a question about using a dome light in the light well. What kind/wattage of light can you safely put in there? The reason I ask is because although the cages are in nearly perfect condition, I did notice that one of them has a small little hole that has been patched in the bottom of the cage right above where the light well from the cage below it would sit under. I can only assume that the the dome light got so hot that that it started to melt the floor of the cage above it.

Anyways, the cages came with dome lights and 75 watt soft light bulbs so I decided to put one of the lights in the well and see what happens. After just a little while the floor below and above the light well temped at over a 100 degrees. The snakes in the cage above loved it, they immediately piled on above the light, lol, but I started to get a little nervous so I shut the light off until I could determine what was the safest light to use in the well.

Also anyone use secondary 20" fixture fluorescents with the Visions from behind the back screen? It shouldn't be too complicated but I am trying to figure out the best way to attach one to the back screen. The middle screen well on top of the cage is too short to get a fixture lamp in there.

Any help or advice would REALLY be appreciated. These cages look pretty cool and my snakes are happy they have so much elbow room but as of right now they are sitting in the dark until I figure out something.

I don't own any Vision cages but did research this for a friend who also purchased several used Visions.

What I found was that 100 watt standard incandescents are no problem at all. But this does not mean that a 100 watt Pearlco, 100 watt self-ballasted mercury vapor, or 100 watt halogen can be used. These all get MUCH hotter than 100 watt standard incandescents.

I believe the max recommend wattage from Vision is 60 watts, but I know of several people who have gone to 100. I'm sure it's just one of those excessively careful recommendations.

To prevent heat build up place a layer of Reflectix insulation between the cages. It will be crushed a bit by the cage and not be as effective but it will still block a lot of heat transfer. Reflectix is one of many flexible insulations that look like bubble-wrap covered with aluminum foil.

You could also use the foil-faced poly-iso insulation board, and in fact this is the most popular product used by herpers. But understand that this, unlike Reflectix, is not a fire rated product. Probably not a big deal but I thought I should let you know. Some people just aren't comfortable having it out in the open.

Like I said, the Reflectix is fire-rated and it also is flexible and thin enough that the cages will still "lock" together when rested on top of each other.
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Current snakes:

0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

7.6 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

0.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Thanks for the advice Chris! If Reflectix is the same thing I think you are talking about, I can get as much as I want(not that I need a lot) for free. They use it to line airline containers full of produce too I think.

Mr. Harper gave you very good advice on the heat lights. He has extreme expertise in all aspects of cages. I have a lot of Vision cages and here is a good but cost effective way to provide flourescent lighting. I take an extension cord with a plug in light bullb socket. I screw in one of the new self balasted, screw in, spiral flouresent lights and simply lay the bulb on the top vent. This provides plenty of light inside the Vision cage and does not get too hot. Bill.
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