>>#1 36 inch high corner tank, both walls (ones that make a right angle) are 24 inches, the other wall is a bit of an awkward size for me to measure as the tank is slightly oddly shaped. 2 sliding doors, both made of screen, which go up pretty much the entire enclosure, both made of mesh, and the lid is mesh
***sounds OK, except for an adult 2x2x4high is better. Is this homemade? can you add any height easily?
>>#2 the current basking temperature is at 94F (raised it back up again). I let it drop down to around 80-84F at night. I use 2 different thermometers (one that sticks to the side of the enclosure, and a digital one I stick in once a day, just to make sure)
***it needs to have more like a 20degree drop at night. Think of nature - day/night temps are typically over 10degrees. I would adjust this somehow - open a window at night, run a fan...I use a digital therm in her cage that has a 24hour max/min which is very helpful.
>>#3 Not sure what brand the UVB light is, although knowing me it's probably ReptiGlo. I have it set on a timer for 12 hours lights on, 12 hours lights off, during lights off there are NO lights on in the room. I've only been using this light for about a month. Light is placed on top of the enclosure
***I do not think that the repti-glo emits the same amount of UVB as the repti-sun. I could be wrong here. A tip: I write the date I put it into service in permanenet marker on the end of the bulb - helpful to know when to replace. Do you live somewhere that you can put him outside? (Sorry if we covered that in an earlier post). If so, get him out as often as possible just mkae sure he has a part fo the cage to get into shade.
>>#4 Yes, I have 2 humidity guages, 1 attached to the wall of the enclosure, and another one that I put in every so often, just to make sure the one on the wall is accurate. The absolute lowest it's ever gone is 50, the highest it's gone (right after misting) is around 90. I mist him early in the morning, and 6 hours later when I come home the humidity is still usualy between 60 and 70. I give him a light misting once the humidty goes down to 60
>>#5 Yes, I have observed my chameleon drinking. I mist the enclosure twice daily on average, once in the morning, once in the afternoon, Between these times I run a drip system (holds 1 gallon of water) on a slow drip, I've never timed how long this lasts, but it lasts over 4 hours, I know that for sure.
*** when you say you have observed him drinking - does it seem like enough? Does he lick leaves or sit under dripper. I still think his eyes look sunken and this can take a toll on his organs - often slowly and signs do not show up until serious damage is done. You might consider giving him a shower every other day for a while. I put a croton plant in the shower, let Luna get settled onto it, turn the shower on and aim it to the side, then I slowly move the plant under the water until she seems in a comfy place. She moves if it is too much or too litlle. I have the temp only a little cooler than I use for myself and she is fine.
>>#6 I've had no problems with feeding, he's eating regularily, I purchase my crickets from a nearby, well know/respected reptile store. I feed them T-REX calcium plus, as well as fresh carrot or cereal (depending what I have at the time). At the place I purchase them they are fed fresh carrot.
***OK, you really should consider upgrading you gutload. Carrot is fine for moisture and beta carotene (form of vitamin A) but it alone cannot give your cham the nutrients that he needs. As good as the store might be, retail crickets are kept in crowded conditions and b/c they go thru them quickly there is little time of expelling parasites and getting well gutloaded. Most over the counter gutloads have some drawbacks in that the longer they sit on a shelf the quicker the nutrients breakdown, turn rancid, get stale, etc. In my opinion you would be better off both for your cham and financially (definitely saev money!) ordering your crickets online so you have control over them for many weeks and make your own gutload or order from some place like www.cricketfood.com which makes it fresh to order. Here is a link to a make your own that also lists good fruits and veggies you should be feeding them with regularly: www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/gutload.html Keep in mind that what you feed your feeders is all the nutrition your cham gets and supplements are just that "supplements" and should not be depended on.
>>#7 Rep-Cal Poshphorus-Free Calcium with VIT.D3
>> Rep-Cal Herptivite with beta carotene (multivitamin supplement) I feed these once every other day in a 1:1 ratio
***Great products, but if he is 6 months or more I would back off on the dusting. Calcium once or twice a week and vitamins once or twice a month - again, most of his nutrition should be derived from his feeders. Once he is full adult once/week Ca/D3 and once/month Herptivite
>>#8 All plants in the enclosure are real, I have a couple pathos, a hibiscus, and a very thickly leaved ficus. The ficus provides plenty of cover, and has PLENTY of space/cover for him to disappear out of view completely if he wished. (And he has done).
***lol! sounds perfect
>>#9 The chameleon is a 6 month old male Veiled, captive born (I ONLY purchase captive born). It was purchased in a store which after years of good service, and good recomendations I have come to trust.
***even cb did you have a fecal done? ALways a good idea and is not expensive.
>>#10 I have only handled the chameleon once while I was planting a new plant in there, that took maybe 5 minutes, he didn't seem too thrilled about it, but it had to be done. The only person ever in the room is me, I do play music in my room, but I do keep it quiet.
***chams have internal ears and don't hear that well. Still best not to blast your music, but it is with their eyes that they receive most of their environmantal information.
There are other reptiles in the room, there's a snake and a bearded dragon on opposit sides of the room from him, about 10ft between the chameleon and the snake, and about 13ft between the bearded dragon and him. His enclosure is raised quite a bit above the other two (not sure if that would make a difference at all).
***I would either move or block his view of any other animal even at that distance (nice big room you have there!
)
He had been a sort of brown-ish when I had bought him, there were a couple other brown-ish ones in with him and the rest were bright green. There are no other animals in the same enclosure as him.
***well, consider what I have suggested, get a fecal, block view of other animals, reassess your gutload practices and cut back on dusting. Sorry this is long but I want to tbe as thorough as possible to help you and your cham - they are such wonderful creatures - aren't they?

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0.1 Veiled - Luna
1.0 Beardie - Darwin
0.2 felines - Kyndra and Líta
1.0 African Clawed Frog - Skipper
0.3 Mad. Hissers (2 died ;(
0.1 Chilean Rose Hair Tarantula - Rosa Leigh
0.1 Goliath Bird-Eater Tarantula - Natasha
Chameleon Help & Resource Info