Sounds like a normal healthy young snake-
Most snakes don't ever really "like" being handled- especially grabbed from above, the flight response is very strong. None of mine crawl towards my hand when I stick it in the cage, some hold still and don't flee but none "ask" to be picked up. Your snake will probably calm down somewhat about being picked up over time.
If you can get them in hand quickly and firmly I think it's better since they aren't so agitated and scared by the time you are holding them- this is hard to accomplish with wiggly youngsters in heavily furnished tanks! But often the fright of the chase will generate a musking that could have been avoided- stinks up the cage and requires extra cleaning even if it happens before the handler successfully gets the snake in hand.
One trick- wait until they are settled under a hide- lift up the hide and you will probably find a loosely coiled, surprised-out- of-sound-sleep snake just sitting there, it is easy to grab a couple of loops and pick it up without a bunch of chasing...
That's how I take up my nippy Blue Beauties- they are out of the cage and looking around the room with interest before they have a chance to get upset about being grabbed.
Feeding-
!any successful feeding is good feeding!
...maybe better for a young snake to get chow a little more than once a week, you should be able to tell when it is hungry as it will come out and cruise the cage in the evenings...
I like feeding in a separate enclosure for many reasons- if you put the prey in before the snake they don't associate movement with food (although most corn snakes are much slower to nip at a hand by mistake than others), they get trained to know that it is feeding time and are more receptive, no ingested substrate, if you have multiple snakes in a cage it is a must-do, in general the enclosed empty space will help the snake find and be interested in the prey object, you can keep precise track of the snake's behavior towards food, and you get to examine each one's health status as you transfer them.
On the other hand, once you pass a dozen snakes, it becomes much more of a chore to assemble the appropriate size containers for various size snakes, and to get the right size mouse/rat/goat into each tub with the right snake. Murphy's law states the first snake in the container that's the only one that's the right size for three other snakes, will take 45 minutes to eat...
Choosing containers is important- I like deli cups that have opaque sides and clear tops for hatchlings, gives them a sense of privacy. Older ones graduate up to tupperware then small tubs- lids must be easy to put on and off, to not startle the snake and be able to reach in a wiggle a f/t mouse when the diner is reluctant, yet those tops need to be secure enough that you are confident they will hold if you decide to walk off for a few minutes to give the diner some privacy.
Just tossing the mouse in the cage is definitely easier- but it's the extra level of care that sometimes makes a lot of difference in the snake's health...
Good luck!
