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Doomsday came for my reptile collection...

caecilianman02 May 24, 2005 03:06 PM

Tragedy. Real tragedy. And all in the past three days. It has to be a disease. I don't know what it is. All I know is that in the past three days, 5 snakes have lost their lives in my collection. This horrifies me. I try the best I can to recreate a natural environment for my animals, giving them the best diet and exercise possible.

Something happened...

5 snakes died, these being a rough earth snake, a baby scarlet snake, a night snake, a brahminy blind snake, and a rough green snake. No snakes showed any signs of disease. The scarlet snake dropped dead shortly after drinking some egg yolk. The rough earth snake was found dead in it's enclosure, as was the rough green snake, whom I have had for three years (I bought him days after he had hatched, and he was about 4 inches at the time.) The night snake and Brahminy blind snake were both found dead in their enclosures.
I think that the all-time worst disease is spreading in my collection. I have to keep burrying all of the pretty little snakes. It not only breaks my heart, but makes me look bad as well. Some, such as the scarlet snake, were unusual species that left me with no time for valuable observations.
What can I do to end this terror!? I have many shows planned for this summer, and cannot afford to lose any more beloved specimens! It's a boom of death, and I need to know immediately what I can do to stop it.
I will never forget this week of terror for my reptile collection.

-----
DAVE

1.0 Western green toad
1.1 green treefrogs
1.0 Florida blue garter snake
1.1 Oriental fire-bellied toads
1.0 American bullfrog
0.1 Spanish ribbed newt
0.0.1 Eastern ribbon snake
1.1 red-cheeked mud turtles
0.1 Dubia day gecko
1.0 Sonoran gopher snake
1.1 rough green snakes
1.1 giant African black millipedes
1.0 Okeetee corn snake
0.1 Albino African clawed frog
1.0 Kenyan sand boa
0.0.1 Argentine flame-bellied toadlet
0.0.1 African bullfrog
1.0 yellow * Everglades rat snake intergrade
1.1 Western hognose snakes
1.2 fire salamanders
1.1 scarlet kingsnakes
0.0.1 scarlet snake
0.0.1 Argentine horned frog
1.1 Southern ringneck snakes
0.0.1 night snake
0.0.1 Florida brown snake
1.0 rough earth snake
0.1 Northern brown snake
COMING SOON: Western worm snakes, Midwestern worm snakes and West/ Midwest intergrades, more Brahminy blind snakes!

Replies (20)

Lia May 24, 2005 03:41 PM

Oh no sorry to hear this. This is aweful. What about going to a more sterile enviroment for now and sterilizing the tanks with some bleach mixed with water than rinse out well with just water.
I suspect its the only thing you can do for now. I imagine one of the snakes had something that it transmitted. Are any sprays being used in the area?
Your non snakes are okay?

CrittersMailToo May 24, 2005 04:18 PM

Hey, when was the last time you brought outside dirt inside? The fact that you use dirt from outside without sterilizing it might have something to do with it, but i'm no expert. I newly formed bacteria from the dirt could have infected your entire collection, but again, i'm no expert. Just my 2 cents.
-----
Denise (Mom) and/or Jared (son)
Take care!

0.1 Ball Python - "Saphira"
0.0.1 Corn Snake - "It"
1.1 Anery Kenyan Sand boas - "Niles and Kitale"
0.1 Brown Marsh Snake
1.0 Bearded Dragon - "Merlin"
1.0 Pixie Frog - "Pixel"
1.0 Red-Eye tree frog - "Visine" don't ask me, talk to the son.. lol
0.0.1 African Dwarf frog
2.0 Chinese Fire belly Newts - "Fred n' Ed, Ed n' Fred"
1.0 Black Cat - "Shorty"

Lia May 24, 2005 04:28 PM

Thats an excellent point not to mention maybe some toxic chemical in the outside soil. He takes good care of his snakes hope whatever it its gone.
I know a few here like outside soil but not using clean fresh bought soil isnt for me. I initally thought it was a snake transmitted disease but after reading your post agree with you .

caecilianman02 May 24, 2005 04:40 PM

Hello,

I actually haven't used soil from outside in quite awhile. No sprays are being used in the area. All other herps are fine. I reckon that the horned frog and clawed frog are virtually indestructable! I will try to keep the environment as sterile as possible for now. This is VERY unforunate. I annually do reptile shows with various themes for small children at local libraries, to introduce them to this amazing field.
A show was being planned this summer, called "Tiny Treasures"' that focused on the amazing and microscopic world of miniature herps, like the blind snake, brown snakes, and little amphibians like my Argentine flame-bellied toadlet, and green tree frogs. I will still be able to do this show, in addition to "The Diversity of Snakes", but I have lost many "stars of the show.' At least visiting relatives from out of town could interact with them.
As mentioned on my signature, I am expecting a group of various worm snakes, in addition to a new Brahminy colony, but frst I need to see why on earth this miniature plague happened, an see to it that it never happens again. I am also closing down the reptile room for several weeks, so that visitors do not enter, and spread or catch pathogens. This is indeed a tragedy.
I have noticed that my larger species like gopher snakes, corn snakes and rat snakes are normally quite healthy, but it only seems to be these odd little snakes that have such a high propensity for disease. I will keep the forum updated.
-----
DAVE

1.0 Western green toad
1.1 green treefrogs
1.0 Florida blue garter snake
1.1 Oriental fire-bellied toads
1.0 American bullfrog
0.1 Spanish ribbed newt
0.0.1 Eastern ribbon snake
1.1 red-cheeked mud turtles
0.1 Dubia day gecko
1.0 Sonoran gopher snake
1.1 rough green snakes
1.1 giant African black millipedes
1.0 Okeetee corn snake
0.1 Albino African clawed frog
1.0 Kenyan sand boa
0.0.1 Argentine flame-bellied toadlet
0.0.1 African bullfrog
1.0 yellow * Everglades rat snake intergrade
1.1 Western hognose snakes
1.2 fire salamanders
1.1 scarlet kingsnakes
0.0.1 scarlet snake
0.0.1 Argentine horned frog
1.1 Southern ringneck snakes
0.0.1 night snake
0.0.1 Florida brown snake
1.0 rough earth snake
0.1 Northern brown snake
COMING SOON: Western worm snakes, Midwestern worm snakes and West/ Midwest intergrades, more Brahminy blind snakes!

lolaophidia May 24, 2005 04:47 PM

Dave,

Take fecals samples in to your vet from your remaining snakes to make sure that one of your newer arrivals didn't bring in some parasite. You as the keeper, need to maintain very strict hygine when cleaning cages or handling your snakes, to prevent cross contamination. Moving uneaten prey items from one cage to another can pass disease from one snake to the next also. Not saying you don't already follow these procedures, but having a sudden die off is a real eye opener. A necropsy could shed some light on cause of death, but you've already buried the animals right?

You may want to switch your remaining animals to a more sterile substrate (paper) and eliminate the possible contamination from your soil substrate. This will make collecting fecal samples to take in to the vet an easier process.

What kind of quarantine are you using? With wild caught animals especially, you need to consider 3-6 months before introducing them anywhere near your established collection. Separate cages are not enough, we're talking separate rooms and no sharing of utensils between the two areas.

I'm very sorry to hear of your losses and I hope you can determine a cause. I had a snake die recently with no symptoms and the cost of a necropsy and testing was worth it for peace of mind that it was not something contagious that would endanger the rest of my collection. I also had a scare a couple years ago with a snake that possibly had cryptosporidium (a very nasty, very contagious disease) that made me re-evaluate my husbandry. Thankfully in my case, all repeated tests came back negative, but I'm still paranoid whenever I have a snake die in my care.

-----
Lora

SnakeSense May 24, 2005 09:13 PM

Do you happened to feed the snakes with wild caught insects like crickets, worms and slugs which may carrying insecticide with them, food poisoning may be the culprit. Just my guess. I used to have a redbelly snake and I gave it the best possible care that I can, but tragedy happened and all it's baby were stillborn, I figured out the problem is that I fed my redbelly snake with the slugs from my backyard and I later realized my landscaper spray the insecticide on my lawn twice during the Summer, it's a preventable tragedy.

--
SnakeSense

regalringneck May 24, 2005 09:34 PM

Sorry to hear of your losses, that does suck, but because youre willing to discuss it...theres hope you can decipher whats going on & resolve it.
I would suspect Dehydration, Vapors, Improper Temp, as the most likely culprits assuming they were eating for you as lethal pathogens appear to be the exception rather than the rule.
Have you done a careful post-mort exam? Ventral & dorsal jpgs would be valuable.
Ive appended a bunch of txt; consider all of it especially quarantine concepts/reusing cages etc.

John Gunn
azdiadophis@aol.com

September 9, 2000

Re: Squamate regurgitation syndrome.

I have learned the hard way how easily this pestilence (cryptosporidium) can move through a collection via cage cleaning/handling/feeding/Re-using containers/etc. Unless disposable gloves are employed (as in your doctors office), the entire collection becomes in jeopardy (handling the infected snake then working/feeding in another cage). This plague appears to require direct contact to disperse, it does not appear to be airborne.

I now have strict quarantine procedures in place for new squamates to prevent large losses as I've suffered before. I never work with a new or suspect animal on the same day I work w/ my other critters.

I believe many breeders are in denial & thus spreading this plague continually (their stock rotates thru the same cages). One of the sure signs is anyone who encourages feeding "small meals", Another is when you visit their "snake room" & the unmistakable odor of regurgitated mouse is in a tub or trash can.

I have kept innumerable snakes over a period in excess of 30 years, I have fed huge meals to a number of healthy snakes, meals so big they could not crawl afterwards, requiring 10 days to 2 weeks to process them. Virtually never have these snakes regurgitated these huge meals.

The symptoms of regurgitation syndrome are a very retching contraction of the snake/monitor. The prey usually looks 50-75% digested. Sometimes its hard to tell if the item is a scat or regurgitation. The odor associated w/ each is unmistakable though to the experienced keeper. The second consecutive regurgitation event [for me] is proof of a disease issue.

My last experience, 3 years ago was via a new San Felipe boa (first boa to regurgitate). I was too slow to respond...By the time I gave up 18 months later w/ Flagel treatments, vet & lab costs, etc. I wound up euthanizing 9 beautiful boas. I gave away (w/ lots of warnings) 4 more suspects. My fellow biologist who gave me the boa denies to this day he had (has) a problem, he recommended I feed it smaller meals! Lesson learned: Trust should be a fickle thing! Now all new arrivals start in quarantine. Of my last 6 mail order purchases (4 vendors); 3 of 6 specimens were infected!

I suspect the offending microorganism(s) can survive freezing; I once (for an experiment) froze a regurgitating yrlng boa & 1 month later fed it to a kingsnake, the kingsnake was regurgitating 1 week later.

Regurgitation should be very rare in healthy squamates. Any captives that regurgitate w/o apparent reason (cold or rough handling) should be assumed infected. They should be euthanized. Flagel & veterinary treatment appears to be generally ineffective. Treated animals should be assumed to be carriers [forever!] & always be maintained under quarantine procedures.

Prior to purchasing a squamate, you should inquire about your dealers business procedures in case you have to later deal w/ this issue. If a breeder refuses to warranty the health of their stock, you should post your experience on the various herp forums to assist them in their transition to ethical business practices!

All tubs/containers that held sick squamates should be thrown away or used to store tools. Used cages, even nice ones such as Neodesha are w/o value unless you explicitly trust the previous owner, or have access to an autoclave. Any new acquisitions should be maintained in a tub (minimally for a shed to shed cycle) before they are placed in a display case.

All breeder loans (bad idea) should be quarantined through a shed to shed cycle.

My experience/education with microbiology leads me to conclude that squamate gut microecology is so unknown, we ought not to assume too much & instead trust a few million years of evolution & try to manage for natural conditions, rather than espouse typical western medical dogmas such as striving for sterility. Many of these micro-organisms that we crudely observe & subsequently label as parasitic, are likely mutualistic; synthesizing vitamins or serving as catalysts for other complex biochemical reactions & interactions. Typical lab analysis’s will find a host of what we believe are nasty bacteria & protozoans, thus most samples will appear "sick" & "need treatment". I use this method; start natural & stay natural; feed natural foods in addition to the usual sterile lab mice. I have never known a wild-caught snake to exhibit the syndrome unless it was processed through the cages of a commercial dealer.

We herp enthusiasts have a duty to personally commit to doing our part in suppressing this plague; stop denying its existence & facilitating its insidious spread. This is one of the primary reasons we biologists strongly condemn the public releasing captive animals.

Cheers & beers, John Gunn

& furthermore…

In Reply to: Re: Is it reasonable to expect a breeder to guarentee crypto-free snakes? posted by Chris Koester on October 25, 1999 at 14:09:46:
: : What health certificates do snake breeders routinely provide?
: *********
: Routinely, none at all.
: I have heard that crpto is a parasite that is extremely contagious and fatal.
: *********
: I wouldn't call it "extremely" contagious, but it is 100% fatal.
: I have also heard that any surfaces that have been in contact with a crypto-positive snake must be disinfected with ammonia because this is the only thing that will kill the cryto. Is all of this true?
: **********
: High concentration ammonia is one of the few disinfectants that effectively kills Cryptosporidium.
: What are the symptoms of a crypto-positive snake?
: **********
: Anorexia, regurgitation, gastric hypertrophy (visible swelling in the stomach).
: Is crypto a threat to all reptiles?
: **********
: It is definitely a threat to snakes and lizards, and has also been identified in turtles.
: Is crypto a threat to humans?
: **********
: Cryptosporidium serpentis is the species that infects reptiles. It does not appear to be a threat to humans. Cryptosporidium parvum is the species that infects cattle, sheep, etc, and is definitely a zoonotic threat, especially to immunocompromised people (AIDS, cancer patients).
:
: All good questions. You can never be too careful, but don't be too paranoid about crypto. Use sanitary practices with your own snakes, make sure to utilize a quarantine period for all new animals in your collection, and buy animals from reputable, trustworthy breeders.
: Chris Koester

Posted by Ryancentini on July 11, 2002 at 00:26:47:
In Reply to: Crypto posted by Dan on July 10, 2002 at 07:26:04:
Here is a info. sheet I did for our clients at the Bird and Exotic pet Hospital on crpto I hope it helps. It done in a question answer format. If there are any questions feel free to email mvirids@hotmail.com
REPTILIAN CRYPTOSPORIDIOSIS
By Ryan Centini
What is cryptosporidiosis? Cryptosporidium is a internal protozoal parasite which is a type of coccidia.
Can humans or other animals get cryptosporidiosis from reptiles? There are eight different species of Cryptosporidium. C. serpentis is the one that affects reptiles and seems only to effect reptiles. C. parvum affects mammals and is the only one known to affect humans. C. parvum can infect suckling mice a reptile that ate a mouse infected with C. parvum although it would not be affected by it, it could pass the oocysts in its feces and under these circumstances could infect a human. However this would really be getting C. parvum from a mouse not C. serpintis from a reptile.
What reptiles can get cryptosporidium? It has been reported in all families of reptiles except crocodilians. Some species seem to be at higher risk of developing the disease than others; cornsnakes, eastern indigo snakes, pine-gopher snakes, (especially albino cornsnakes and pine-gopher snakes), emerald tree boas, boa constrictors, as well as rock rattlesnakes, monocled cobras, and death adders (but I hope these last three are not kept as pets!). Snakes in general seem to be at higher risk than other reptiles. In lizards it has been most commonly seen in gila monsters, geckoes (especially leopard geckoes), chameleons, monitors, and iguanas. Cryptosporidium has been found in several species of turtles and tortoises. However it does not seem to cause disease in them, they may just be carriers of it. They can transmit it to snakes and lizards though. This is just one good example of why different species of reptiles should not be housed togther.
How is cryptosporidum transmitted? Cryptosporium oocysts are shed in the feces and they are found on regurgitated food. These oocysts can then get on cages, bags, cleaning instruments, water bowls, cage decorations, in the water, and hands. And transmitted to reptiles in other cages. The oocysts can survive for several months in the right conditions (with the fecal matter or with moisture and low temperatures) and are hard to kill (see prevention below). Cryptosporidiosis should be considered as highly contagious and the highest standards in sanitation should be exercised.
What are the signs of cryptosporidiosis? In snakes cryptosporidium is mostly found in the stomach and causes weight loss, regurgitation, and in the later stages gastric hypertrophy (thickening of the stomach wall). In lizards it usually found in the intestines. Where it causes diarrhea, weight loss, and anorexia. There is a report of cryptosporidum in the kidneys of a iguana and a Parson’s chameleon and the salivary gland of a iguana. There are reports of reptiles that shed the organism but never developed any signs and of reptiles that developed signs but through supportive therapy got better. These seem to be the exception though and most die. There are several diseases that can cause these same signs so LET A VETERINARIAN MAKE THE DIAGNOSES.
Is there a cure for cryptosporidiosis? There are several drugs that have been tried. A lot of them have caused a decrease in the number of oocysts and a few even seem to have stopped the shedding. But these result have been inconsistent. Reptiles that are positive for cryptosporidiosis should be strictly quarantined with separate cleaning instruments or be destroyed.
How is cryptosporidiosis diagnosed? There are a few methods one is to do a acid-fast test on the contents of a stomach wash (this is best done three days after a meal in snakes), the feces, or mucus from regurgitated food. An immunofluorescent antibody (IFA) on the feces. A enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) on the plasma. And a biopsy of the stomach lining this is the most invasive, but can yield good results. With any of these tests a negative does not mean the reptile does not have cryptosporidiosis it just means it was not in that sample. With three negatives you can reasonably sure the reptile does not have it.
Prevention. As mentioned before cryptospridium is very hard to kill. The only known disinfectant that can reasonably be used is household ammonia with 30 minutes of contact. It should only be used in a well ventilated area. AMMONIA AND BLEACH SHOULD NEVER BE MIXED. A substrate that can be thrown out like newspaper should be used, cage decorations should be plastic so they can be sanitized, wood is difficult to sanitize so should not be used.

caecilianman02 May 24, 2005 09:57 PM

Hi,

I found the information very helpful. I feed all of my animals store-bought prey items. I am positive that proper temperatures and humidity were maintained for all 5 species. Judging from my captive observations, these are my most reasonable guesses as to why each snake happened to die so close together. Each statememt is backed up with information.

Rough green snake- old age (I have had it for nearly three years, and bought it as a hatchling. These guys do not live too long naturally.)

Rough earth snake- either old age or infection. (I had ordered two rough earth snakes, and both arrived with deep cuts and bruises on their bodies. The snake looked about full grown. I will go with the infection.)

Brahminy blind snake- old age. (These guys have a very short lifespan, and I had it about three months, when it was already a full grow adult. It had also escaped numerous times while in captivity, and was a very stressed out snake.)

Scarlet snake- Maybe there was something wrong with the egg. It died suddenly within minutes after feeding.

Night snake- DISEASE, DISEASE, DISEASE! Positive. It was stressed to begin with. It was a wild-caught snake who fed, drank, acted normally, and died young.

This certainly is distressing to lose so many beloved animals so quickly. Never before in the history of my collection has anything like this ever happened. However, an interesting observation was made. Nearly all snakes in captivity shed their skins on the exact same day. All were fed on the exact same schedule. The shed pattern, depending on the individual's lifespan, may indicate that each snake grew and completed it's life cycle around the same time. There is no telling for sure, but it has been a horrible, macabre experience that I hope with all of my heart never happens again.
-----
DAVE

1.0 Western green toad
1.1 green treefrogs
1.0 Florida blue garter snake
1.1 Oriental fire-bellied toads
1.0 American bullfrog
0.1 Spanish ribbed newt
0.0.1 Eastern ribbon snake
1.1 red-cheeked mud turtles
0.1 Dubia day gecko
1.0 Sonoran gopher snake
1.1 rough green snakes
1.1 giant African black millipedes
1.0 Okeetee corn snake
0.1 Albino African clawed frog
1.0 Kenyan sand boa
0.0.1 Argentine flame-bellied toadlet
0.0.1 African bullfrog
1.0 yellow * Everglades rat snake intergrade
1.1 Western hognose snakes
1.2 fire salamanders
1.1 scarlet kingsnakes
0.0.1 scarlet snake
0.0.1 Argentine horned frog
1.1 Southern ringneck snakes
0.0.1 night snake
0.0.1 Florida brown snake
1.0 rough earth snake
0.1 Northern brown snake
COMING SOON: Western worm snakes, Midwestern worm snakes and West/ Midwest intergrades, more Brahminy blind snakes!

billysbrown May 25, 2005 09:20 AM

If it's not too late, it might be worth it to cut them open and take a look, ideally with someone who already knows his or her way around the inside of a snake if you don't. Even if you don't see something obvious, it's a great learning experience, and we all should be familiar with their internal anatomy.

HerperHelmz May 25, 2005 03:09 PM

I had ordered two rough earth snakes, and both arrived with deep cuts and bruises on their bodies.

You exagerrated that for sure, the 2 rough earth snakes had small blisters, there were no cuts or bruises.

Mike
Michael's Place

-----
Michael's Place has updated, better caresheets
KingPin Reptiles Inc.
Helmz777@aol.com
www.freewebs.com/mikesnake

Oxyrhopus May 25, 2005 06:33 PM

Snakes inflicted with a disease do shed more often or before they die.

Oxyrhopus May 25, 2005 09:59 AM

You most likely acquired a snake with a disease and it spread like wild fire. You must always wash your hands very well and always clean the tanks well. Personally, if I suspect crypto, the tank and everything goes in the garbage with the snake.

aliceinwl May 24, 2005 09:45 PM

The only help I can offer, is to re-iterate what was said about quarentining and keeping cages simple.

I only keep same species together and new arrivals are quarentined for at least 3 months. I also opt for the simplest functional substrate. Most of my snakes are on aspen shavings, with the exception of my shaptail who is on eco-earth and my new shovelnose who is on sand.

It is important to have enclosures that can be spot cleaned easily and substrates that can be changed out regularly. If I'm using wood or rock from outside, I bake them at 250 F for 15 minutes. I also never swap food items between animals. And, if during feeding, maintenance, etc. I happen to touch the animals or anything in the enclosure, I wash my hands before moving on to the next enclosure. I also wash my hands before handling feeders so that I don't contaminate them.

If I'm doing some kind of presentation that necessitates handling multiple specimens, I always have some anti-bacterial hand wipes on hand that I can use between animals. So far this has kept my ecclectic collection healthy.

Usually with parasites, they are some warning symptoms such as lethergy, anorexia, abnormal stools etc. Maybe your guys got some kind of virulent bacterial infection? In any case, I'd clean the enclosures. Put them on simple substrates and monitor their health for 3 months. If all is well after this period, you could try recreating more natural habitats while factoring in things like ease of maintenance.

It really sucks to have to lean about things like quarentine and preventing transmission of diseases between animals the hard way (I went through this too a few years ago). Always keep in mind that what may be natural flora to one animal could be deadly to an animal not adapted to it. Reptiles are also good at hiding disease. The pathogens picked up at the wholesalers / retailers, could easily take months to make their presence known.

-Alice

Lia May 25, 2005 10:11 AM

Posted by: aliceinwl at Tue May 24 21:45:41 2005

I only keep same species together and new arrivals are quarentined for at least 3 months. I also opt for the simplest functional substrate. Most of my snakes are on aspen shavings, with the exception of my shaptail who is on eco-earth and my new shovelnose who is on sand.

I am interested in shovel nose snakes. Do you see him much,how deep is your sand ,eating okay?
Thanks

aliceinwl May 25, 2005 08:36 PM

I've only had him about week and I'm still tweaking the set-up. So far, he's eaten two crickets and a spider.

-Alice

Lia May 26, 2005 03:09 AM

Do you see him much or like sand boas he stays buried all the time.
thanks

aliceinwl May 26, 2005 03:19 PM

He's basically buried all the time. If I turn on the lights at night, I sometimes catch him out.

-Alice

Lia May 26, 2005 03:59 PM

okay thanks for the info.
Lia

rick gordon May 25, 2005 01:12 PM

Thats a tough call, because all the snakes you have are amoungst the most delicate. Three years for rough green snake is about average, so its possible that the deaths are unrelated. with out any symptoms, I would consider, a temperature problem or humidity. Did you have a blackout? dry spell? Have you handled these snakes recently? if there is an infection it has to be spread somehow unless its airborne, then your screwed.

Oxyrhopus May 25, 2005 06:39 PM

And dont feel bad. I have seen friends collections of $30,000 dollars or more of rare snakes go to the toliet in a matter of weeks from paramixo and crypto. Just remember to always wash your hands and only hold any snake when necessary or else the more you hold them, the more you invite the opportunity to transmit a disease to them.

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