Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I made this box to safely transport snakes from peoples yards so that I can release them back into the wild. This way the snake, namely rattlesnakes, but others included, do not meet an early demise from a wayward shovel. Its made of 3/8 inch plywood, has a window sash lock that positively locks, and a plexiglass window thats mounted in position. Its held together with wood glue and finishing nails. The top is half hinged lid and half stationary. The part with the window is screwed in so that I can remove it if the need ever arises. all knots and cracks were filled with wood putty and the entire thing was sanded down with 100 grit paper to provide a smooth surface. The exposed screws fromt eh hinges and handle were ground down flush with the wood to prevent any exposed sharp edges. The whole thing is 14"x14"x10".. Tell me what you think. Good or bad, I'm curious what everyone has to say.

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Kevin
Southern California Organization for Rattlesnake Research and Education SCORRE05@hotmail.com

It looks good, Kevin.
I don't see any air holes.
Just as a thought, Florida requires that transport boxes have air holes that are covered with screen.
Hope this helps,
Karl

Technically, Florida law requires that IF there are air holes, they must be screened, but it is not required to have any (probably not a bad idea though).

Two things:
1) Does that handle on top rest on the plexiglass when the lid is open? If so, that may be a problem eventually, causing the plexiglass to crack, especially when you aciidentally step/sit on the box with the lid open. Better to set it up so the lid lays flat when open.
2) I like to screw an eye hook into the front edge of the lids on my boxes so I can open them from the front with a hook and keep my hands clear of the box.

I was just gonna suggest a small hook of sorts to grab with your hook when you open the box. having your hand at the lid with a snake inside definitely puts you in strike range if it's a big one.
Other than that, looks great!! if I had a need for one, I'd model it after yours.
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Tom
TCJ Herps
"The more people I meet, the more I like my snakes"

Thanks for all of the replys.

As far as air holes. I was undecided on where to put them and how to set them up. I came to the conclusion that because the box was far from being air tight it would be ok for a short amount of time.

Larry-regarding your two questions

1. No the handle does not rest on the glass. When I put it in I did not consider that though. And I just seemed to get lucky on that.

2. I never even thought of an eye hook. I think the reason was because my plan was to open the box before I started to do anything with the snake. However, even with that I am now planning on adding an eye hook on there just in case.
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Kevin
Southern California Organization for Rattlesnake Research and Education SCORRE05@hotmail.com

LOL
While I will agree to the stipulation that it does technically say "if"...
I did watch FL F&WCC (Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission) Officers refuse to allow people to take possession of their animals at Daytona because their transport cages/cases/boxes/etc did not have air holes and then after holes were drilled, they still refused because the newly drilled holes were not screened.
The first Daytona Venomous Show was vert frustrating for many people as they came to terms with how FL F&WCC Officers interpreted their own regulations.
I only mentioned air holes because I have seen large rattlesnakes overheat in transport boxes due to stress and lack of air flow.
Just a recommendation, your box looks great.
Karl H. Betz

One way to avoid the eye for the hook: Stand behind the box & lift the handle with the snake hook. Standing to the rear is probably safer anyway.

One option for ventilation: Sandwich the plywood top with plexiglas instead of using one piece. Drill holes in the two pieces of 'glas that do not line up.

One other option: The box is trash. Send it to me, & I will gladly dispose of it for you. Heeheehee

~~Greg~~

thanks for the reply...but I'll dispose of it here thank you. lol

great replys and suggestions from everyone..keep them coming
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Kevin
Southern California Organization for Rattlesnake Research and Education SCORRE05@hotmail.com

Looks great and sounds like you built it good and strong, but if I may offer one nitpick... I personally would mount the carrying handle on the stationary side of the top, not on the moving lid. The reason for this is that when the box is being carried, all the weight hangs on those four screws in the hinges (and on the lock). If, for whatever reason, those should fail, the box may unexpectedly fall open and give you a nasty surprise. Mounting the handle on the other half of the top near the plexi, however, offers a lot more strength to the box because when carried, you have quite a few more screws in that side. THAT SAID, I'm sure you aren't using the box to carry any lead weights. Your setup should work fine, just wanted to offer a bit of constructive critisism. Looks great!