Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I'm building a plastic rack (HDPE) with Iris tubs. I was just wondering if anyone had any hints or ideas for me. In particular, I'm curious how people get the best fit for the tubs i.e. they're snug enough that there's no gaps between the tubs and the rack, but they're not so snug that they bind up when you try to slide them out.

I will also be running heat cable under the tubs (laid into routed grooves in the plastic shelves). I'm not quite sure how much to run under each tub in terms of linear feet. I'll be using the Iris 9 1/4 gallon tubs (about 6"x18"x34". I'll be using a thermostat, but I'd rather not just have the heat too hot in a small area, or be wasting a bunch of heat cable on each level (if that makes any sense). So anyone who has used heat cable, I'd appreciate your input.
Thanks,
Will

np

Whats going in the rack? I take it your using the iris cb-70 tubs or larger? If so, why are you worried about a little gap? A tub that size must mean your housing adult snakes, even the best escape artist colubrid couldnt escape from a 1/16" or light 1/8" gap.

I would build the rack upside down. Put a tub in the first slot, lay a piece of thin cardboard ontop of the tub, put the next shelf in place and attach it... rinse and repeat until you have all the shelves in place.
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Sam Craver
Cage Crafters

Thanks for the input guys, the upside down method was exactly what I was thinking about doing, so I guess I'll stick with that!

I was worried about the gap issues because along with the larger tubs, I'm also going to be using smaller ones when I need them. I'm building more space than I actually need for future animals, and instead of putting a neonate in a big tub, Iris makes some tubs the same height, but smaller length and width, so while the snake is young I could keep say 3 hatchlings in 3 smaller tubs on one level, and as they grow switch them into larger tubs. For the most part it will be housing colubrids and small pythons. I'm not totally sure if I'm going to house any of my venomous in it at this time (mainly copperheads), but if so I will also be putting on either a locking metal bar that runs down the front of the rack, keeping the tubs from coming out, or locking screen doors over the front of the racks. (I saw those ideas at Habitat systems)

How much of an issue is the sagging on the HDPE? I'm building mine so that the long side faces out (so I can also accomodate smaller tubs, where the shorter side would face out) so I was taking the possibility of sagging in consideration. I was planning on securing each shelf very well to the back panel as well as the sides, so it would minimize this. I wasn't totally sure if I wanted to take the time to dado every shelf, but if you really think it's worth it, I probably will. I'm doing all of the main cutting at a friend of mine's wood shop, so I just didn't want to take a lot of time bugging him.

Thanks!
Will

>>How much of an issue is the sagging on the HDPE?

HDPE varies dramatically in quality and how warped it is from the start. It can be a significant issue. Go look at a stack of plastic cutting boards at Walmart or somewhere similar. Chances are you'll find a few in a stack that are warped.

>>I'm building mine so that the long side faces out (so I can also accomodate smaller tubs, where the shorter side would face out) so I was taking the possibility of sagging in consideration.

I think you mean so the large boxes slide in width-wise, correct? This may be a problem. Dados on the side and back panels will help a lot. Since you're building this in a woodshop this will be no problem.

When you do assemble the rack make sure to install each shelf so the camber is facing up on the finished product. Camber is very easy to detect with a straight edge. Your woodworking friend will understand.

Regarding the use of different sized tubs, don't rely on the listed measurements from Iris. What matters is the actualy height with the lids off, and the boxes do vary quite a bit. Unless you or someone you trust has done this comparison I would not bank on this working.

Hopefully it will. Between a HDPE rack built with dados and Iris tubs you'll have a rack that will last a lifetime.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Thanks again. I've actually been into woodworking for a long time, so I know exactly what you're talking about. A friend of mine right down the street actually owns a shop, where he does everything from pre-cut molding to building classical guitars. I actually got to know him building guitars together; I guess that's why I can't just go buy a cage! I have to build it!

As far as the tub size, I've actually gotten all of my tubs, and I am designing the rack based on actual dimensions, I wouldn't go off of what it said for anything! In fact, I was planning on numbering each tub, so that when I put each shelf in, it will have been made exactly for that particular tub. Measure twice, cut once!

-Will

>>I'm building a plastic rack (HDPE) with Iris tubs. I was just wondering if anyone had any hints or ideas for me.

For HDPE I recommend cutting dados and then using silicone and rivets to hold the racks together. I do not recommend edge-joints for HDPE.

>>In particular, I'm curious how people get the best fit for the tubs i.e. they're snug enough that there's no gaps between the tubs and the rack, but they're not so snug that they bind up when you try to slide them out.

This is a very important issues, and one thatpeople seem to most regret not planning out.

One rule of thumb is to build too much gap rather than too little. It's always easier to fill too large of a gap than to remove material later. As plastic sags gap issues can become very important.

I shoot for 1/8" for most racks. More for heavy bodied snakes such as ball pythons, less for hatchling colubrid racks. Since this is for such a large tub I can only assume the species is large, so I'd say at least 1/8".

>>I will also be running heat cable under the tubs (laid into routed grooves in the plastic shelves). I'm not quite sure how much to run under each tub in terms of linear feet. I'll be using the Iris 9 1/4 gallon tubs (about 6"x18"x34". I'll be using a thermostat, but I'd rather not just have the heat too hot in a small area, or be wasting a bunch of heat cable on each level (if that makes any sense). So anyone who has used heat cable, I'd appreciate your input.

The beauty of heat cable is that you can run as much or little under each tub as needed. If you do this right your Tstat will not be all saving you from an overheating accident.

How much to put under each tub is difficult to answer, but very easy to change later.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Hopefully this link works... I think I got a pretty good price on them too... free shipping!
-Will
Link to tubs