Feed as much as the little guy will eat every day. Keep putting items in until he's no longer interested. Dust the prey with vitamin powder at every feeding for little ones. Its very important to remove any loose, uneaten crikets as they can actually harm a gecko -- believe it or not, a sleeping gecko won't defend itself from a cricket nibbling on it! You can also feed in a separate tank (I use the big plastic "critter carriers"
. Then I just dump the uneaten crickets back in the cricket tanks.
Young leos grow very quickly and, from my experience, need a fairly high caloric intake. I offer food every day to all my babies, my juvenilles, and my very young adults. None of my geckos have weight problems...and they don't bolt their food.
From my experience, although leos eat larger food items as they get older, they eat LESS. They hit a point where they suddenly curb their appetites and don't need to be fed every day. They also pack on weight more quickly and can become obese (I see WAY too many fat leos in peoples' photos) You'll easily notice this change in eating behaviour.
I gut load my meal worms and my crickets with:
1) "Total Cricket Gutload" -- these green gel-like chunks of vitamin and protein-packed food concentrate. They're awesome because they have a high water content, eliminating the need for water that suicidal crickets love to drown themselves in (I swear, this in an Olympic event for crickets). 2) Pre-mixed grains w/vitamins sold as "cricket gutload" (the mealworms like this a lot), 3) cat food (good fats, etc) and 4) veggies...whatever I have lying around.
I choose not to feed my meal worms oatmeal because it seems to have limited nutritional content. The only problems with mealworms and the cricket gel chunks and the veggies is that these items can mold. For this reason, you can stick to grain mix and cat food...if the prey eats moldy food and the gecko eats the prey, it can kill the gecko.
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Too many Leos
1.0 feline "Spot"
0.1 canine "Tika"