Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Howdy,
Anyone and everyone please chime in.....

Shiloh, I was wondering if you have tested your temps in those cool little tote box cages you built yet. I tried overhead flexwatt in the past but I didn't like my results. I didn't really install it with a high degree of craftsmanship, so it may have been user error rather than design error. Did you use any insulation?

I ask this because if it works that is super cool. I really like the concept of overhead heat. Basically wondering if I could apply a little elbow grease and make my own panels. Presently I heat all of my adult carpet cages from underneath, they have grown, thrived, and bred numerous times this way; I am personally 100% satisfied my snakes are happy. However, I think it would be far cooler to see snakes bask on a perch to thermoregulate rather than just crawl to the other side of the cage and lay on the hot spot.

And this brings me to my question for Chris (and everyone else)...
If flexwatt produces heat that radiates parallel to it's surface, Couldn't one make DIY heat panels using flexwatt and some reflectix (Reflective Insulation-forgot the exact name) material? The point is to mount it overhead
Seems to be the case to me, but then why are RHP's so expensive? What am I missing?

In my specific example I am talking about housing for carpets and green tree adults in 4x2x2 cages. I live in Atanta so all I really need is a hot spot. (It does get cool in the winter, but it only lasts about 2-3 months and I basically cycle the animals with the weather). I like a pretty dramatic gradient if possible (basking spot of 90 is plenty)

Thanks
Ben

>>If flexwatt produces heat that radiates parallel to it's surface, Couldn't one make DIY heat panels using flexwatt and some reflectix (Reflective Insulation-forgot the exact name) material?

They are actually fairly easy to make, at least conceptually. Basically a heat source, air space(s), and some reflective insulation. Then you have to seal it up in a water resistant package that allows the heat to radiate safely (i.e. not build up).

It's all of these issues that allow RHP's to be efficient AND safe. To what degree a person can do this on their own is beyond me. I have built RHP's but never tested to see how efficient they were compared to commericial products. And I've certainly never run them long term to get an idea of how safe they are.

All of these issues are reflected (pun intended) in the price of commericial products.

For what it is worth, if I need RHP's for my next cages I plan to buy them. I think the price of ProProducts is well worth it for the warranty, peace of mind, etc. And I'm sure they are more efficient. That efficiency has to pay for itself eventually.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Forgive the potential stupidity of this, but why does a piece of flexwatt need to be watertight? Is it just the connections that need to be h20 tight?
Again- that may be a stupid question.....

When we buy flexwatt for our personal use it's up to us how we use it. When a company takes it and uses it for a heating product they need to be especially careful with safety issues.

I do not remember everything from your first post, but if you already have flexwatt mounted to the top of some of your cages I would start by simple draping Reflectix over the top and back on the outside. Leave it fairly loose.

Before you put on the Reflectix, take temperatures of the inside of the cage and the outside surface temps as well.

See how much the cage heats up and if the Reflectix gets hot or stays at room temperature, or somewhere inbetween. Personally, I would not leave my cage this way, but you'll probably learn a lot.

Proceed at your own risk and be careful.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

I've seen people who have actually just taken bare heat tape and affixed to the ceiling. This i would definately not reccomend. You will wind up with tape that can get well over 100 degrees, and will burn the fool out of your snake as you get to that point.

And why would you want to make a RHP water tight? The main reason is for higher humidity cages (due to the dampness you wouldnt want that) but more importantly you want it close to air tight. Reason for this is efficency. You have your heating elements in there that are constantly getting air drafts over them, then they won't ever get too hot, and you will be burning a lot of electricity. You want your element to heat up then just radiate the heat out. This is the same reason why a smooth top stove is more efficent than an old fashioned type... you don't have cool air constantly cooling down the heating element.
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Chondros and colubrids... my 2 favorite types of snakes!

"Life is hard. Life is harder if you're stupid." - John Wayne