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Slide Film...

Doug89 Jun 30, 2005 10:38 PM

Hey guys, I was intersted in slide film for my photographs and just wanted some answers about it. I know it is the preferred medium for most nature photographers (other than digital) but i was wondering a few things about it. I like the fact that you can keep the slides and only get prints of the pictures you really want. I also like the fact that the slides are small and that if you keep them in an album they wont take up much space. I was wondering though what is the best brand and the best ISO? I think i heard before that the Fujichrome Velvia 100 is the best (it must be for the price!) are there any other good (cheaper) brands. Also i was concerned with the speed of it. Sometimes with animals they move fast and dont always sit still. Will this film me i will have to use a much slower shutter speed? Also about how much does this film cost to get developed? And whne you get it developed do you get prints or just the developed slides? I like the fact that you get more photos with it too (50% more than the usual Kodak 400 ISO stuff im used to. Any other thoughts would be great! Thanks guys!
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-Doug Daly

"Aren't you two a little old to be drinking illegally?"

0.1.0 Leucistic Texas Rat Snake (Elaphe Obsoleta lindheimerii)

Replies (9)

chrish Jul 01, 2005 05:58 AM

I was wondering though what is the best brand and the best ISO?

There is no "best" brand of slide film and no "best" ISO. There are two variables that matter here - color and grain. The lower the ISO, the finer the grain usually. Therefore you can blow up a lower ISO slide image larger and not see the film grain. You can actually find RMS scores for slide films in some magazines and online (like this site - http://www.photographic.com/film/143/). Once you settle on a fine enough grain (the difference between and RMS of 9 and 14 is pretty negligible, BTW), then you have to resolve the color issue.

I think i heard before that the Fujichrome Velvia 100 is the best (it must be for the price!) are there any other good (cheaper) brands. Also i was concerned with the speed of it.

Velvia is very rich in color, and tends to accentuate blues and greens over reds. This works well for most herps, which is why some people like it. It is also the favorite film of "camera snobs" who "never shoot anything else". My question to them is always "If you never shoot anything else, how do you know it is the best?"

I used to be a confirmed Velvia snob. One summer, a friend and I were forced to do a side by side comparison on a trip to Mexico. He shot Velvia ($8 a roll online) and I shot Ektachrome Elite 100 ($3.00 at Wal-Mart) because my Velvia didn't come in on time. As we projected our images side by side at home, we both agreed that the color rendition of the Ektachrome Elite was both more realistic and more pleasing for almost every herp shot. We both switched to the cheaper stuff (it is no longer available, unfortunately).

As for speed, slower ISOs give you finer grain, but I have to say the Fuji Sensia 400 mentioned on the list I linked above has a VERY low RMS score and would certainly be a worthy test film if you need the speed. Remember that doubling the film speed only gives you 1 stop, so 400 is only 2 stops faster than 100. Therefore if 100 needs 1/8 of a second exposure for a particular shot, the 400 is still going to need 1/30 sec. It often isn't a huge difference.

Sometimes with animals they move fast and dont always sit still. Will this film me i will have to use a much slower shutter speed?

I generally preferred slower film (ISO 100) and used a fill flash to compensate for slow shutter speeds. You get more control and more options than just using fast film.

Also about how much does this film cost to get developed? And whne you get it developed do you get prints or just the developed slides?

I used to buy my slide film online from B&H photo (bhphotovideo.com). I would buy the slide film that came with the prepaid mailers. It generally cost about $8 a roll for 36 exposures including processing if you buy 20 rolls at a time. If you buy slide film over the counter and pay processing at Wal-Mart, etc, it will run a total of about $12 for 36 slides.
You only get slides back, although for another couple of dollars, they will scan all the slides onto a CD for you.

Digital cameras seem expensive until you add up the cost of film and processing! I used to spend between $200 and $500 a year on film/processing. Since I bought my DSLR, I haven't spent a penny on it.
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Chris Harrison
Does anyone else here think that these scrolling signature lines are stupid?

Doug89 Jul 01, 2005 04:50 PM

Thanks Chris! I just had a couple more questions... First, do you have to refrigerate the film? I was reading something like that. Also there are a lot of numbers involved with the whole film thing, i dont understand where it says: Fuji 136-34
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-Doug Daly

"Aren't you two a little old to be drinking illegally?"

0.1.0 Leucistic Texas Rat Snake (Elaphe Obsoleta lindheimerii)

Doug89 Jul 01, 2005 04:52 PM

Sorry about that my computer only posted 1/2 of my message. My other question was how long will processed slides last? And about how much does an enlargement cost (say 10x12 or something in that range)? Thanks!
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-Doug Daly

"Aren't you two a little old to be drinking illegally?"

0.1.0 Leucistic Texas Rat Snake (Elaphe Obsoleta lindheimerii)

chrish Jul 04, 2005 01:00 PM

When you see something like 136-36 generally means it is a 36 exposure film.

Refrigerating film supposedly makes it last longer. They usually recommend keeping film cool, letting it warm up in its airtight container before putting it in your camera, and then processing film as soon as possible after shooting.

Processed slides lifespan depends on the slides. I have some 20 year old ektachrome film that is less colorful than it was when it was shot. They say Kodachrome holds its color better, but you can't buy it anymore.

I don't know how much enlargements cost since it has been 20 years since I have had any done.
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Chris Harrison
Does anyone else here think that these scrolling signature lines are stupid?

Doug89 Jul 04, 2005 01:53 PM

Sorry to ask so many question but heres the last one. I also read that the film is touchy. Something about if you dont expose it correctly like eith the aperature and shutter speed it wont work out whereas negative film is more hardy and allows some degree of incorrectness. Will this be a big deal? I usually shoot in aperature priority mode and take a couple shots in complete manual just for experimenting. Thanks for all of your help chris.
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-Doug Daly

"Aren't you two a little old to be drinking illegally?"

0.1.0 Leucistic Texas Rat Snake (Elaphe Obsoleta lindheimerii)

chrish Jul 06, 2005 12:05 AM

Print films are designed with more exposure latitude which means that any slight under/over exposure will still produce good results. When you add that to the amount of tweaking that is possible during the printing process, print film is very "forgiving".

Slide film only records exactly what you tell it to record. There is no second level of processing (print making) so therefore the exposure will come out as you intended.

This isn't a bad thing. With print film, it can be hard to do things like slightly underexpose to increase saturation. In slide film it is an easy matter.
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Chris Harrison
Does anyone else here think that these scrolling signature lines are stupid?

Doug89 Jul 06, 2005 12:35 AM

.
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-Doug Daly

"Aren't you two a little old to be drinking illegally?"

0.1.0 Leucistic Texas Rat Snake (Elaphe Obsoleta lindheimerii)

chrish Jul 06, 2005 08:32 PM

You can use any mode you want, it shouldn't affect the outcome. You should check your meter to make sure it is working correctly.

One way to do this is to use the sunny f/16 rule. This rule says that a medium tone object in bright sun on a clear day with an f/stop of f/16 should require a shutter speed that is 1/the film speed. The beauty of this is that you don't need film in the camera to test it.

Go out on a sunny day and find something middle toned (a gray card is good, but so is a green lawn). Point the camera at the middle toned object with the camera in aperture priority mode set at f/16. Then read the suggested shutter speed. With the ISO set at 100, you should get a shutter speed of 1/100, with ISO 64 - around 1/60th, etc.

It is a good test to measure the accuracy of your meter. The trick is to make sure your subject is middle toned (a good excuse to buy a gray card).
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Chris Harrison
Does anyone else here think that these scrolling signature lines are stupid?

Doug89 Jul 06, 2005 09:30 PM

np.
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-Doug Daly

"Aren't you two a little old to be drinking illegally?"

0.1.0 Leucistic Texas Rat Snake (Elaphe Obsoleta lindheimerii)

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