I agree with Jay. You can also use a styro lined reptile shipping box (many are almost the exact size of the standard hovabator model) and then just place the top of the hovabator over the box as it will give you more height. Having kept/bred bp's for over 35 years, I have used both artificial methods as well as just letting the mothers brood their own eggs. For the past 12 years I have just allowed the mothers to brood their own eggs and the success rate is just as high (over 98%) as other methods. There are a few things you need to do to ensure a high success rate but the mother really does know what she's doing. And, even though she will not feed during her 50-60 day brooding, I have found that their appetites are far better after this period than when I used to pull the eggs right away. They put on weight very quickly and since I only breed my BP's every 2-3 years, they have plenty of time to get back into optimal condition. Just something to consider.
Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discover Center
Lake Forest, IL
>>Is it the turbo model? If so, you will need to disconnect the fan. Also, you will need to plug any venting holes (at the top).
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>>Do you have a deep bottom or is this the standard bottom. I would be concerned about the top eggs being too close to the heating element. One thing you can do is put in your vermiculite and then form a deep indentation for the eggs to fit into. This will bring them down. Then I would only partially cover the bottom eggs.
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>>I have successfully hatched eggs in a Hovabator without an inner chamber.
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>>Have you considered maternal incubation?
>>Maternal Incubation
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>>Jay A. Martin
>>Jay Martin Reptiles
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Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL