Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello all,

I am wondering if anyone has any plans or information regarding good Burmese Python cages. My burm is about 5 feet now and I think it is time to start on her adult enclosure. I am wondering whether anyone has any pictures or drawn out plans of their adult enclosures. Right, now I am thinking somewhere along the lines of a 6'L x 4'W x 2'H enclosure. What do you guys think. What dimensions have been successful for you? I know this is not going to last the burm her entire life, but I know I will have more snakes in the future so this can be ready for the next up-comming snakes of my collection.

Any ideas? Pictures? Recommendations? etc?

I would be very appreciative of your all's help.

Best Wishes,

Chris

>>Right, now I am thinking somewhere along the lines of a 6'L x 4'W x 2'H enclosure.

Chris,

I have pretty strong feelings about cage size for large constrictors. Specifically, I feel that cages with little height and a lot of depth are potentially dangerous for the keeper and hard to clean.

If your snake was curled up along the back of the cage (a common spot) you would have to lean underneath that 2' height to reach all the way back, thereby exposing yourself to a food response bit which could be deadly from a big burm.

I'm not saying don't build a cage with some depth to it, but make sure it's safe. If you're really stuck on the 4' depth then make the cage taller and use a large constrictor hook as a means of conditioning snake to know it's you reaching in and not a small potential food item.

>>What dimensions have been successful for you?

I like an 8' long cage. Depth of about 30" or so and at least 24" of height. Again, height is not so important if you use a large hook to move the snake without your head sticking in.

But since you're not planning on a lifetime cage, the 8' length is probably unecessary.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

>>Chris,
>>
>>I have pretty strong feelings about cage size for large constrictors. Specifically, I feel that cages with little height and a lot of depth are potentially dangerous for the keeper and hard to clean.
>>
>>If your snake was curled up along the back of the cage (a common spot) you would have to lean underneath that 2' height to reach all the way back, thereby exposing yourself to a food response bit which could be deadly from a big burm.
>>
>>I'm not saying don't build a cage with some depth to it, but make sure it's safe. If you're really stuck on the 4' depth then make the cage taller and use a large constrictor hook as a means of conditioning snake to know it's you reaching in and not a small potential food item.

Actually I usually do use a hook for larger constrictors. I agree that a deep enclosure can put me in a dangerous position. How about a top opening cage? I was thinking about making one that opens from the top and hinged in the middle (the 2' mark). Do you feel that a cage that opens from the top will be decent? I know that it will have to be reinforced to keep her from prying it open. But is this an ethical way to build the cage?

>>
>>I like an 8' long cage. Depth of about 30" or so and at least 24" of height. Again, height is not so important if you use a large hook to move the snake without your head sticking in.
>>
>>But since you're not planning on a lifetime cage, the 8' length is probably unecessary.

Yeah, since I have some smaller snakes I will just allow my burm to step up in cage size. This will give me excuses to continue building cages and have them ready .

Thanks for your help once again, Chris!
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

>>Actually I usually do use a hook for larger constrictors. I agree that a deep enclosure can put me in a dangerous position. How about a top opening cage? I was thinking about making one that opens from the top and hinged in the middle (the 2' mark). Do you feel that a cage that opens from the top will be decent?

I'm not a big fan of top-opening cages. One that big would have a massive door that would need to be swung out of the way, even if you divide it in half. And that also exposes you to a food response bite if the snake is underneath the part of the top that is not open. You would still have to lean in there and open it.

I prefer sliding bypass doors on the front but realize they have a major shortcoming - a large constrictor can tail-hook them as it's being pulled out of the cage. Hinged flip-down doors are probably best.

It sounds like you either have or are moving towards a large collection. I also think a top opening cage is a bad idea in this regard in that it will require so much space.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Ok,

Sounds like a 6-7 footer by about 30" and a 24" Height would be best. The existing cage that I have opens from the front and drops down (which is what I am assuming you were referring to). I agree, that will probably be best. Thanks for the info. Is melamine a good wood to use? I will look through the archives and see if I can find some info on sealants and so forth instead of bothering you with the questions.

Thanks,

Chris

>>>>Actually I usually do use a hook for larger constrictors. I agree that a deep enclosure can put me in a dangerous position. How about a top opening cage? I was thinking about making one that opens from the top and hinged in the middle (the 2' mark). Do you feel that a cage that opens from the top will be decent?
>>
>>I'm not a big fan of top-opening cages. One that big would have a massive door that would need to be swung out of the way, even if you divide it in half. And that also exposes you to a food response bite if the snake is underneath the part of the top that is not open. You would still have to lean in there and open it.
>>
>>I prefer sliding bypass doors on the front but realize they have a major shortcoming - a large constrictor can tail-hook them as it's being pulled out of the cage. Hinged flip-down doors are probably best.
>>
>>It sounds like you either have or are moving towards a large collection. I also think a top opening cage is a bad idea in this regard in that it will require so much space.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Melamine is not bad, but I prefer something that is repairable. Melamine is difficult to paint (although there is melamine paint) and can suffer pretty bad damage when even a small amount of water penetrates.

With plywood, on the other hand, water penetration is not such a big deal and the re-sealing/re-coating is usually easier.

However, melamine can be coated with vinyl film which creates a durable and very easy to repair finish.

I have a 100' roll of 30" wide vinyl film. Way more than I need so send me an e-mail if you want to try it. I think I paid 26 cents per foot. I'd sell it to you for that plus shipping.

The one thing I do like about melamine is that it gives a clean, finished look to the cage exterior with little or no work on the part of the builder. And the interior really is not as bad as myself and others make it out to be.

It is heavy, however.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

thanks Chris,

So overall do you feel that a plywood cage would be more durable? I would like to build a cage that is durable, easy to maintain, and is as cost effective as possible. I will most likely use plexiglas instead of real glass for viewing, do you have any other recommendations on that?

thanks again,
Chris

>>Melamine is not bad, but I prefer something that is repairable. Melamine is difficult to paint (although there is melamine paint) and can suffer pretty bad damage when even a small amount of water penetrates.
>>
>>With plywood, on the other hand, water penetration is not such a big deal and the re-sealing/re-coating is usually easier.
>>
>>However, melamine can be coated with vinyl film which creates a durable and very easy to repair finish.
>>
>>I have a 100' roll of 30" wide vinyl film. Way more than I need so send me an e-mail if you want to try it. I think I paid 26 cents per foot. I'd sell it to you for that plus shipping.
>>
>>The one thing I do like about melamine is that it gives a clean, finished look to the cage exterior with little or no work on the part of the builder. And the interior really is not as bad as myself and others make it out to be.
>>
>>It is heavy, however.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

>> So overall do you feel that a plywood cage would be more durable?

Yes, but more expensive since you have to seal it. And chances are that will cost more than 26 cents per square foot. Then you should also seal the outside. Not the case with melamine. Melamine really is quite cost effective.

>>I would like to build a cage that is durable...

Melamine really is not bad if you take care when building it take care of it once built.

>> ....easy to maintain...

Laminate on a plastic floor and melamine is pretty good. If I were to build melamine cages I would build them without a floor and them staple Sintra onto the bottom. I would line the walls with vinyl film.

Heavy cages, but very cheap, quite durable, easy to repair, etc.

>>I will most likely use plexiglas instead of real glass for viewing, do you have any other recommendations on that?

Plexiglass is expensive. Glass is often cheaper, although burms might require tempered glass.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Ok,

I think I have this pretty much narrowed down, but you brought up a question about the floor. If I was to build a cage of melamine. Use the vinyl laminate, and then put sort of a "tile" floor at the bottom to better protect it, how well would that work? Would tempered glass be more cost effective than plexiglas?

sorry to keep bothering you.

Thanks,

Chris

>>If I was to build a cage of melamine. Use the vinyl laminate, and then put sort of a "tile" floor at the bottom to better protect it, how well would that work?

That would also work. The only issue with such a design is if water ends up getting underneath the tile floor there can be damage occurring that you're not aware of. With a solid floor this is basically impossible to repair.

With my design you could still have a small amount of damage going on but it would be repairable. One of my cages with this design had a very small leak in part of the silicone and the shower-board I used for the floor was also damaged. I simply took off the shower-board floor, scraped off all the silicone and then used my circular saw to trim 1/8" off the cage. This took off the water damaged part of the melamine. I then put on a new piece of shower-board and the cage was as good as new.

However, don't build a cage without a solid floor unless you're comfortable with it. Just understand that a solid floor adds weight and can make repair much more difficult.

>>Would tempered glass be more cost effective than plexiglas?

I'm not sure as I have not priced tempered glass in many years.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

>>>>If I was to build a cage of melamine. Use the vinyl laminate, and then put sort of a "tile" floor at the bottom to better protect it, how well would that work?
>>
>>That would also work. The only issue with such a design is if water ends up getting underneath the tile floor there can be damage occurring that you're not aware of. With a solid floor this is basically impossible to repair.
>>
>>With my design you could still have a small amount of damage going on but it would be repairable. One of my cages with this design had a very small leak in part of the silicone and the shower-board I used for the floor was also damaged. I simply took off the shower-board floor, scraped off all the silicone and then used my circular saw to trim 1/8" off the cage. This took off the water damaged part of the melamine. I then put on a new piece of shower-board and the cage was as good as new.
>>
>>However, don't build a cage without a solid floor unless you're comfortable with it. Just understand that a solid floor adds weight and can make repair much more difficult.
>>
>>>>Would tempered glass be more cost effective than plexiglas?
>>
>>I'm not sure as I have not priced tempered glass in many years.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Home depot has a 6'x3' sheet of 1/4" plexiglass for 70$...what is tempered glass? I think plexiglass is stronger, but I could be wrong...you can drill through the plexiglass too...

>>Home depot has a 6'x3' sheet of 1/4" plexiglass for 70$...what is tempered glass? I think plexiglass is stronger, but I could be wrong...you can drill through the plexiglass too...

Tempering is a heat treatment process that is applied to regular glass. It takes the strength from the edges and distributes it through the face.

Some acrylic is stronger than glass, both are strong enough for most reptile cage applications. The problem with buying "plexiglass" at Home Depot is that most of the time it's not actually plexiglass, it's a cheaper brand of acrylic. The name plexiglass has become so ingrained in our minds that just about any place sells generic acrylic as plexiglass. This can be a bad thing if the acrylic is of poor quality.

I cannot say for sure that what you bought is good or bad.

The lower quality acrylics really look poor after use in reptile cages. They tend to warp, yellow, and get very dull in a short period of time.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)