Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Thanks! I think I am just going to cut the hole I need. I have it all penciled out but wanted to be sure I was going to be putting it in the right spot before I dig or should I say saw in. I have the hole in the center of the top of the cage. The UTH is on the right side bottom and I thought I wanted CHE anywhere but over the UTH but wasn't 100% sure on it.

The Ultratherm left wide open is taking the temp up to 98 degrees so I am sure at 85 on a dimmer is plenty happy for Maynard. I was going to use the CHE to make the 90 degree basking spot over a branch in the center of the cage. Or is it even necessary? Perhaps cranking the UTH to 90 would be enough? Gosh! I worry too much!

Also, I'd like to get a temp controller but don't know which to get. Are there any that can control multiple cages with one controller? How would you go about doing that?

I have a Ranco double (I'm paranoid, it's a quality unit, one should be fine), I received it already wired from Boaphile and it comes wired with an electical strip that simply lets you plug in your heating devices. I've had no problems with mine.

Goood luck.

Don't only measure the basking spot temp. Measure the temp near the floor on the cool end as well.

Unless you have a nice warm herp room there's a good chance that the UTH will do little to give you the proper cool end temperature. For ball pythons the generally recommended temps are 90-95 on the basking and and 80-85 cool end. The cool end should be at least 80 near the floor. If you've got a cool room (70 or so) you may find that your cool end temp is around 72 or 73 even with the UTH basking spot at 95. Especially with a large cage.

If you place the CHE in the center of the cage like you mentioned, and use a rheostat to control it, you can probably get the cool end temp where you want it and adjust the UTH for the proper basking spot temp. Your bp will most likely not like using a branch for basking, so use the CHE to get the air temp where you want it.

You don't want a cold cage with a hot spot.

Bill

Ah ha! Now it all makes sense to me. I was not paying much attention to the cool end as long as it was over 75 degrees. That was a big error on my part. So if I understand this correctly now my gradient should look something like 90-95 using the UTH for my hot side then a little heat from the CHE in the top center to stop me on the cold side at 80? These are daytime temps I assume. What should I strive for at night?

These are much higher temps than my Rat Snake gets which might be why I am having a hard time wrapping my brain around this one. Seems just so darn hot and my snake hangs out on the cold side most of the time which is weird to me.

Yep. Those are the recommended temps for a ball python.

Generally, 80 is a nice cool end target with bp and other pythons. Boas too. And 90 for the basking area would be fine; really not over 95. The CHE should do a good job of warming the air and giving you the right cool end, and you might be surprised at how much you have to control the CHE output with a rheostat (lamp dimmer).

It's also important how you take the temps. Place a thermometer or thermometer probe right on the area. You might want to keep a probe or two in the cage at all times so you can verify temps at a glance. Radio Shack has nice inexpensive thermometers with probes.

I recall reading an article about observing ball pythons in the wild. The author actually did some temperature readings in the holes the balls were occupying. Seems the temps were much hotter in there than we would think.

As for night temps, I don't drop them. I used to, but I tried without and it didn't make a difference. As long as you have a decent sized 80-degree area (I put the hide in the cool end) he should be fine. You may find him basking a lot at night, since balls are more active then.

While we're on the subject of ball pythons, I've read and also seen for myself that they prefer low hiding places rather than the high flower pots or overly roomy pet store hides. Snakes like a cozy fit where their body can feel the hide all around them. Makes sense when you figure that a large burrow might let something else in! Even a flat piece of cork bark works well.

Good luck!

Bill

I would recommend an off-contact IR thermometer when you're setting up cage heating. It speeds up the process, and you learn a lot about the gradient, the heating device, etc. It's well worth the cost, considering how inexpensive they've gotten. I don't know how I lived without one for so long.

Steve