Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hey, im VERY VERY interested in getting a blood python. i just need some tips and suggestions on how to raise their humidity and what you guys/girls use for your bloods. Any help would be appreaciated.

Cody.

Sustaining humidity levels for any herps really depends on the enclosure. Most people here reccomend sweater boxes or something of that nature which are very easy to keep humidity levels constant. Others may chime in but I use a spray bottle and spray down the cages a couple times a day. I use aqauriums though and a screen top with tin foil over everything except the light hole. The humidity drops rather quickly so I usually spray numerous times throughout the day. Same with my whole collection for that matter. Just get a guage and try some things, you'll get the hang of it. Good luck, Eric

Hey Erick,Try USING 3 INCH THICK CLEAR PACKING TAPE.Just tape it right on the screen and about 4/5 inches from the lamp.create a barrier with the foil to keep it from the tape.Or try getting pexiglass and cut it to fit.That's what I've used in the past.I dunno just a suggestion. Ash Lopez
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If you keep a rather large dish of water in the cage for soaking that should be fine for keeping proper humdity.I dont like to have a wet cage it has been my exp that it can lead to skin problem.I also think its better to be on the low side when it comes to humidity rather than the high.But thats just my humble opinion shaun t

Like hackbone said just get a rubbermaid and put some holes in it. Then get an appropriately sized water bowl and that should provide adeqite humidity. I definately wouldn't want to set them up in an aquarium and spray them multiple times a day...

J
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"It's my snake, I trained it, so I'm going to eat it!" - Mad Max, The Road Warrior

well, i use glass tanks and sterilite/rubbermaids for my snakes. the only tanks that use heating systems with are the large tanks because they have screentops and the heat escapes. the rest are ok because they are enclosed and it gets to be about 85-90 degrees in my room during the day. the humidity of each one is between 50-60%. all i do is just put a dish of water in with each one and the natural heat creates enough humidity. as far as substrate goes, i use 3 diff types. newspaer is cheap and easy to replace but it looks like total crap when the snake uses the bathroom. plus it sticks to the bottom of the tank. reptibark is awesome. it's pleasing to the eye, the snake can burrow into it to hide, and it holds moisture so humidity isnt a problem. bad thing is its a pain in the butt to clean. so far the best ive seen is simply running some plain white copy paper through a shredder and putting a bit into the tank. so far all the snakes we've done this with have loved to crawl through and hide in the shreds. plus if the snake messes up one part you dont have to change the whole thing. just pull that part out and toss in some new shred and youre good to go. the first pic below is of Dakstren, my black. he shed today. the second is Ember and she is in shed. 3rd is Raistlin (by way of NERD, ty Kara) and the last two are of Rambo.

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0.0.1 Colombian Redtail Boa
1.1.1 Sumatran Blood Pythons
1.0 Black Blood Python
1.0 Dumeril's Boa
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python

I wanted to ask, do you notice if the shredded newspaper helps with holding any humidity in or adding to it?
I would think it would be the same as normal newspaper, but if it helps, I would like to know... because I have an endless supply of shredded paper at work.
I use newspaper for most of my snakes, I've used repti-bark but I switched to the brick ground cocunut for my higher humidity species and it so far has been great as far as keeping the humidity up.
thanks...
-April

shreaded newspaper can make good hides, and can be misted to create a sorta humid hide.

if it gets too wet it will break down.

but if you have all that access to shredded newspaper, i'd put it to good use and put crumpled piles of it in your herps cages for hide spots.

Thank for all your tips guys!, im looking forward to getting my blood python im just having a hard time finding one.

Cody.

im not sure if the shredded newspaper or even shredded white copy paper will hold in humidity. but i HAVE tried shredded newspaper and found it to basically suck. not only is it an eyesore, but shredded paper ink urine feces = something i do NOT wanna have to cleanup! basically, there is a pro and con to everything like i stated earlier. i even did some checking on sphagnum moss (which is supposed to be THE BEST substrate) but if you read the fine print, the manufacturer recommends against feeding the reptile in the moss, as internal consumption can be harmful. i have yet to hear or use any "100% perfect" substrate but if i ever find it i will let you know.
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0.0.1 Colombian Redtail Boa
1.1.1 Sumatran Blood Pythons
1.0 Black Blood Python
1.0 Dumeril's Boa
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python

I use a humidity chamber inside my rack system. It is basically a second cage inside the cage. I fill the box with moss, or coconut bark, and put a hole according to snake size. Works great, but snake generally hides in there all of the time.

Most of the responses have been spot on. I would also side with the comment about too much humidity. Be careful with a "wet" tank and stagnant air. It is a perfect recipe for a respiratory infection.

I have my smaller blood in 28 qt sterilites with belly heat (near the back of the containers) in a rack system. I punched around 20-25 3/16" holes, 8-10 low on the backside and 10-12 high on the front side (for convection), with a couple near the front of each side. I place around 3" of cypress mulch (2.99/bag at home depot)one small hide and a water dish in each cage. The heat is only near the back of the cage with the water dish setting midway in the cage. Heat is set at about 88 degrees in back with 84 degrees in front. I have never sprayed my baby blood cages. They stay at around 70-80% humidity with some occasional slight condensation at the front edge. The convection currents provide for air exchange and the humidity from the water bowl keeps humidity where they like it. I've never had a sick blood (knock wood), my babies eat like machines and shed perfectly. By the way the water bowl is just big enough for them to curl up in it until they outgrow the cage at 10-12 months.

You can accomplish the same thing with a bag of mulch, a heating pad and two 28 qt sterilites. Set the boxes back to back on the pad and get your temps & humidity right by adjusting the location of the water bowl, number of holes, how much cage is on the pad and the pad settings. Do this BEFORE you put the snake in. Total cost $20.

For larger snakes use an underbed sterilite (approximately 40" x 20". You might have to buy a pad for each box. Total cost $30.

I should point out that while I never spray my baby cages my bloods do get baths periodically, which they enjoy. I do spray my larger adult cages lightly once per week.

There are much better systems and if you have the money you should get the best you can, but this works pretty well and the animals like the security of the tight, low enclosure.

p.s. buy CBB animals from a reputable breeder.

Happy snakin

Steve

if you cant afford an undertank heater, a back heating pad can be purchased from target or walmart. ive used these and they work perfectly. it is best to have an appropriate amount of substrate and proper temp setting before putting the snake in. i had mine set in the winter time to low or #1 setting with about 1.5'-2' of reptibark and the temp was at a constant 88F. you can even (size permitting) place 2 snake tanks on just one pad. double your money! it is best to buy the type that DOES NOT have the auto off feature. the cheapest ones of this type i have found are the 'sunbeam' brand at target for $10.00

hope this helps someone. it did me.
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0.0.1 Colombian Redtail Boa
1.1.1 Sumatran Blood Pythons
1.0 Black Blood Python
1.0 Dumeril's Boa
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python

correction...1.5" to 2"....not 1'-2'.
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0.0.1 Colombian Redtail Boa
1.1.1 Sumatran Blood Pythons
1.0 Black Blood Python
1.0 Dumeril's Boa
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python

You can always use flexwatt heat tape... its probably cheaper than that heating pad and much more versitle too. Runs like $3-5/foot depending on how thick you want it. I wouldn't skim on the thermostat tho, you might as well go ahead and get a nice one, you'll need it in the future. I reccomend the Helix DBS1000 but it can be a little pricey. Look at www.beanfarm.com there good people.

Jordan
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"It's my snake, I trained it, so I'm going to eat it!" - Mad Max, The Road Warrior

dude, i work for $2.13 an hour. i cant afford any of that stuff you just said. i was speaking to those of us that have to use walmart bags for trah bags because we cant afford the hefties.
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0.0.1 Colombian Redtail Boa
1.1.1 Sumatran Blood Pythons
1.0 Black Blood Python
1.0 Dumeril's Boa
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python

2.13 an hour?? Where are you working, a sweat shop? I made better money than that babysitting the neighbors kids when I was 15.

No offense, just curious...

I used one for about 6 months (and not a cheap one either, about middle of the line) and it shorted out on me. It still worked just fine, but if I hadn't noticed right away and had the mat under a kenyan sand boa (very heat tolerant) I quite possibly could have cooked my snake. After it shorted out, all three heat settings were the same as the hottest heat setting, and there were little melted spots in the plastic of the heat pad.

In other words, human heating pads are NOT something I want to be using to keep my babies warm. They just aren't designed to be on 24 hours a day. I'll go with something safer like an UTH or flexwatt (installed by someone else) and use a thermostat for backup.

That is good advice. I have heard of heating pads loosing their cheap "thermostat" and running hot but I have also heard of flex-watt, heat mats and "hot rocks" shorting out. Having said that I havent ever used a heating pad for more than a couple of days and havent even done that in a long time. It is simply a quick, low-budget, temporary alternative to more costly and trustworthy things. I also think it is always prudent to check your snake frequently as well. I have thermometers where I can see them as I walk through the room because I am paranoid about snakes getting too hot even though my equipment is of pretty good quality.

thats why A: you check the temps everyday and B: you dont just plug in and forget. thats also the problem with people having a ton of snakes...theres no way to check on every single one of them to make sure that health, heat, etc issues dont arise. without hired help, that is. but i stand by what i said about the heat pads. oh im sure theres something better out there but for right now i along with many others cant afford the superduper deluxe proheat systems model H5000 even if its at a sale price.
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0.0.1 Colombian Redtail Boa
1.1.1 Sumatran Blood Pythons
1.0 Black Blood Python
1.0 Dumeril's Boa
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python

also, i dont use the pads 24/7. i only use them in the winter time and the temps are checked twice daily. summertime? hell, its 90F in my room with the fan on. why would i need heaters?
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0.0.1 Colombian Redtail Boa
1.1.1 Sumatran Blood Pythons
1.0 Black Blood Python
1.0 Dumeril's Boa
0.1 Coastal Carpet Python
0.1 Jungle Carpet Python

They work great when they're working, and I would still recommend them as a temporary solution. I still use my melted heat pad even!! I use it to warm my feet while I'm studying in the winter It might be too hot for the snakes, but its not too hot for me!

I also believe in checking your snakes regularly, and if you're doing that, then there's not a piece of technology in the world that will prevent disaster better.