Reptile & Amphibian Forums

First, from what I read on the forums, the books are all wrong (they said to use calci-sand), so I am hoping to find definative answers. I read the debate about the sand issue, however, with me, if something can go wrong with my pets it will (currently own 1 diabetic dog, 1 dog with severe allergies to chicken and corn, one dog with rare blood disorder, 1 healthy cat, and 1 cat with a heart anomily and intestinal disorder). So, I am going to stay clear of the sand. I am planning to purchase my first beardie next weekend at one of the events. Plan to get a juvenille, have a 20G Long tank, cave, rock and lamp.

1. It sound like repitle carpet (green matt at petstore) is what most recommend. Right? But how do you clean it and how often do you replace?

2. Do I need a heat mat to warm the aquarium at night.

3. Pet store owner said that ESU Reptile Desert 7%coil-lamp would provide HEAT and UVB. Is the heat part correct?

4. Do you have to feed the beardie outside of the cage?
IS it true that I don't need a water dish, could just spray down twice a day.

5. Biggest question is about cleaning. The books say that once a week you must empty the cage and clean with bleach. This sounds like a lot of work. I imagined daily fecal, shedding, food debris removal combined with a bath, toenail clips, etc. But entire cage cleaning a 20G tank is a lot. Is that what is really required for good health?

6. The book also suggest you can train the animal to go potty in a litter pan. Is this true. The feces should be easy to remove, but can you get them to urinate in a little sandy area or paper area or what?

Any advice on exact products to get for the new home, please let me know.

1. It sound like repitle carpet (green matt at petstore) is what most recommend. Right? But how do you clean it and how often do you replace?
- Most ppl here recommend non-adhesive shelf liner from like home depot. Or you can use unfinished ceramic tiles (not so slippery) You'd be able to just wipe them both down. The shelf liner just take up when you don't like how it looks/gets torn, etc.

2. Do I need a heat mat to warm the aquarium at night.
-not required.

3. Pet store owner said that ESU Reptile Desert 7%coil-lamp would provide HEAT and UVB. Is the heat part correct?
- I'm not familiar with this type, I tried a mercury vapor lamp though and it did NOT get hot enough. So I'm going to guess yours won't get upto the 100 degrees with just the one light either... MIGHT (use a digital thermometer to check temps) but expect to have to use a 2nd light (reg. 75 watt bulb in a reflector hood should work)

4. Do you have to feed the beardie outside of the cage?
IS it true that I don't need a water dish, could just spray down twice a day.
- Have to? No. I feed mine in his cage. I spray him down every day and give him a bath/soak 1-2x a week. I've had a water dish in & removed it as he didn't use it. I also make sure to put the veggies in after being rinsed to get extra fluid that way.

5. Biggest question is about cleaning. The books say that once a week you must empty the cage and clean with bleach. This sounds like a lot of work. I imagined daily fecal, shedding, food debris removal combined with a bath, toenail clips, etc. But entire cage cleaning a 20G tank is a lot. Is that what is really required for good health?
- hmmm, I scoop every day. Wipe it down weekly but will only be changing the sand out every few months. I also think most people use novason or some such safer cleaner ... someone correct me???

6. The book also suggest you can train the animal to go potty in a litter pan. Is this true. The feces should be easy to remove, but can you get them to urinate in a little sandy area or paper area or what?
- lizards poop like birds where the urates and feces are all sort of in a pile together. If you give regular baths, the BD NORMALLY will poop in the bath water & you can dump out. So that will cut down on cage cleaning. I'm not sure about training to a litter pan, mine doesn't seem to have one spot he likes to go in which would make that type of thing trainable.

I hope this has helped a little!

-Bonnie
1.0 husband
1.3 2-legged kids
1.1 maltese & husky
1.0 tabby cat
1.0 pionus parrot
1.0 bearded dragon (0.1 awaiting shipment)
0.0.1 crested gecko

(FROM MY experience )

1: Do NOT use calci sand, or any sand at that matter.. just to be safe, . Sand looks nice, but is dangerous and is hard to clean up. I would recommend Paper Towels over anything else. There so easy to clean, Very safe, and Inexpensive.

2: I dont need one and i live in minnesota, it gets CoLD in the winter!! I was using a night light infra red lamp and was told NOT to use it because, i think it was just because she doesnt need it.. I never use heat at night and my beardie is just fine.. it shouldnt be warm 24/7.. they need to cool down once in a while..

3: ? i dont know. lol. i use seperate lamps

4:I would definatly have a water bowl large enough for the beardie to fit in. You can feed in the cage.. :-p lol

5: first off, i wouldnt get a 20 gallon tank.. i kn0w ur lizard is going to be small but she/he is gunna grow BIG. 15-18 inches.. an adult cannot live in that small of a cage.. you'll have to get larger tanks as it grows and that will cost even more.. I have had a 40 gallon tank for all his life. its perfect size..
Cleaning is SoOo easy!! i'd never complain about cleaning their cage! i roll up the paper towels, and then disinfect with disinfecting wipes.. then i spray a little water around the cage to get out any chemicals, wipe it out with paper towels.. I replace new paper towels in the cage and wash all the plastic bowls and such with water and soap.. *im done* its much easyier than ANY other pet ive had.. I clean her cage once a week.
Bath and toenail clips are not every week..If you wish you can give them a nice soak once a week but i do this once every 2 weeks not even.. her toenails need to be cliped when the nail grows past the quik? if thats whats it called..

6:I've never heard of litter training a lizard.. but if its true go for it!
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I'd get a 10 gallon tank for crickets.. Lots of egg cartons in there and a little thing for food..tin foil/cap to a plastic container, etc.. The best luck i've had with keeping them alive is to Make sure u disinfect their cage atleast everyweek and a 1/2. (sani-cloth disinfecting wipes) AND fresh food, i use FLUKERS Orange Cube complete cricket diet. *water*food*vitamins*
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Hope I helped.
sry sooo long! hehe
Lauren

They pee and poop at the same time. I bathe mine every evening before I feed him and he does his stuff in the water. Then I feed him his veggies out of the cage. When I give him crickets, he eats them in the cage and aggressively hunts them. The only way I can get him to eat veggies is to hand feed them. (I know...he's spoiled.)

I use the green carpet and wash it good with soap and water every week. Not much mess because he doesn't poop in there.

Mine loves his bath and he has it down to a routine. I also mist him once or twice inbetween.

I JUST GOT MY BD A COULPLE OF WEEKS AGO I HAVE A 7 INCHER MAYBE 8 NOW HE JUST SHED.I HAVE A 20 LONG TANK FOR NOW,I USE A FEW LAYERS OF NEWSPAPER(TOO YOUNG FOR SAND OR ANY OTHER BEDDING HE CAN INGEST AND HARM HIM)I HAVE THAT SAME ESU LIGHT BUT I USE THAT FOR HIS UVB LIGHT/ON THE OTHER SIDE I USE A REG 75 WATT BULBFOR HIS UVA ,YES THEIR IS A DIFFERENCE/I JUST GOT A DIGITAL THEROMETER(STRIPS ARE WAY OFF)ABOUT 82 ON MY COOL SIDE 105 ON MY HOT SIDE/A BRANCH ON HIS HOT SIDE TO BASK IN/OH YEAH A MUST IS A TIMER ESP IF YOU WORK AND RUN ERRANDS,ETC THIS WAY YOU NEVER HAVE TO WORRY.

QUICK LIST;
UVA LIGHT (HEAT BULB)
UVB LIGHT (SUNLIGHT)
BASKING BRANCH
TIMER
CRICKETS
MAYBE A CUT OUT WOOD BARK(TO HIDE IN COOL SIDE)
WIRE OR MESH TOP(THAT LOCKS)
POWDER SUPP.(D3)I USE REPTOCAL FOR FOOD AND CRICKETS

FYI,IT'LL BE AROUND 100.00 OR SO ON TOP OF THE B.D.

Thank you to everyone, you have all been very helpful.