Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I recently recieved a really cool looking art deco style chest of drawers and would like to convert it to a cage. I know I've seen some beautiful examples of that on this site, but couldn't find them. Does anyone know of a webpage or where to find pics for some good ideas on how to do this? I'd give more details on what I want to do with the cage, but am not sure what I want to house in it yet. Also don't know if I want to make one large cage, or divide the space. Need ideas!
Thanks,
Mike
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2.1.0 water dragons, 2.2 crested geckos, 0.0.3 turtles, 1.0.0 5-line skink, 2.0.0 anoles, 0.0.1 giant millipede, 1.0.0 uromastyx, 1.0.0 armadillo lizard, 1.0.0 veiled chameleon, 1.1.0 bearded dragons, 1.0.0 pictus gecko, 1.1.0 CA banded gecko, 1.0.0 Hondo, 1.1.0 corns, 1.0.0 dog, 1.1.0 cats, 0.1.0 wife, 2 SW tanks - 20H, 55

Mike,

If the species scratches a lot and/or needs a flooded substrate it might change your requirements.

Every furniture-to-cage conversion is different depending upon how the unit in questions was constructed. I know there are websites out there describing this process but I don't remember where they are nor do I think they'll help much.

Regarding the epoxy, I have used pool paint epoxy, fiberglass resin, and pourable bartop epoxy.

The pool paint epoxy would work if the inside of the dresser has a lot of framing supports that need to be painted over and/or if the interior wood is not all that attractive. BTW, make sure it's not cedar due to toxicity concerns.

Pool epoxy has nasty solvents and is a pain to work with. But boy it protects well.

The bartop epoxy is great if you want a clear coat and have flat surfaces to apply it too. It has self-leveling properties so you really can't brush it up the sides of a framing member and expect it to stick.

These epoxies probably don't have great scratch resistance but they are easy to use and there is no concern with nasty solvents.

Fiberglass resin I just don't recommend, although I do understand that there is a form that is pourable like the bartop epoxy that is also super clear and sandable. I have only used the ugly automotive epoxy. Nasty stuff.

Comparing cost of these products is difficult. They are likely all priced the same on a per-gallon-basis, they the require different thickness' so you have to factor that in.

Pool paint epoxy is probably the cheapest since it can be applied so thin but you have to buy two gallons (gallon of resin and a gallon of activator).

I would only use the clear, sandable/pourable fiberglass resin. I have never priced it nor do I know how thick of a film it requires. As such, I simply have no idea how much it will cost.

Bar top epoxy, supposedly, requires a very thick build, making it the most expensive. But you can often find Envirotex in small kits, meaning you don't have to buy so darn much and store the excess.

However, I ate at Outback Steakhouse last night and noticed that my table had a very thin build of this epoxy and the table was still in great shape. I may experiment with these epoxies again and see if I can apply a thin build and still get excellent protection.

Okay, in summary:

Decide if you want a clear or tinted coat.

Decide if the design of this dresser requires the epoxy to be brushed on or if it could be poured on.

Combine your two answers and go from there, pay particular attention to the needs of the species that will go in the cage.

Sorry to ramble.

Mike,

I can buy Envirotex Lite locally for about $56 per gallon (1/2 gallon of each part). Recently I found this product via a google search:

http://www.shopmaninc.com/kk121.html

I have not figured out exactly what it would cost to ship, but I believe it would end up being cheaper in total than the $56 local price. If you got into some of the larger kits it would definately be cheaper.

If this is your only project, however, I would figure out how much coverage you need and then look locally for some of the smaller kits. This might be a good way to decide if these epoxies work for your applications. Ace Harware and Craft shops often have these kits. At craft shops ask for picuture embedding epoxy, or decoupage epoxy.

Again, I have not used this epoxy in a flooded environment. I do know one guy who formed pools out of plaster and then painted this stuff on. The pools held water for years and helf up to the scratching of his water dragons. However, that does not mean it won't dull up when applied over bare wood as you intend.

I built this cage for a friend of mine over two years ago. He's had wet sphagum moss in the bottom ever since and he says that when he pushes the moss aside the bottom is still as shiny as glass.

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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Wow! That cage is absolutely beautiful. Thanks for all the advice. All my animals are currently housed well, so I'm gonna take my time on this- make it a real "showcase" cage.
I was leaning toward an enclosure for an emerald tree boa, but I think my wife would kill me if I brought one more reptile into this house. I'll probably make a large set-up for my cresteds.
Thanks again, Mike
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2.1.0 water dragons, 2.2 crested geckos, 0.0.3 turtles, 1.0.0 5-line skink, 2.0.0 anoles, 0.0.1 giant millipede, 1.0.0 uromastyx, 1.0.0 armadillo lizard, 1.0.0 veiled chameleon, 1.1.0 bearded dragons, 1.0.0 pictus gecko, 1.1.0 CA banded gecko, 1.0.0 Hondo, 1.1.0 corns, 1.0.0 dog, 1.1.0 cats, 0.1.0 wife, 2 SW tanks - 20H, 55

>>Wow! That cage is absolutely beautiful.

Thanks, I'll post the finished pic below.

To be clear what I meant in the previous post about the finish dulling up, I meant if it were subject constantly to the scratching of something like a Water Dragon, Tree Monitor, or whatever.

You do often see this at public bar tops where this finish is often used. I have heard it is easy to buff with a soft cloth and rubbing alcohol.

Still, I would not want to use this stuff not knowing exactly how it would hold up to scratching.

Can you take a picture of the inside of the dresser and post it here? Only use a clear finish if the wood "deserves" it. I have seen some pretty ugly interiors on dressers.

Chris, I'll try to get a pic up soon. Your info. was incredibly thorough, but I don't know if I have that kind of $ right now. I was thinking of trying to use most of the parts already available with the chest and some other items I've used in the past. Let me run this by you.
1)Why couldn't you create a floor out of plywood to fit the interior, raise it about 4" from the bottom of the chest, and drop in a strong plastic liner (possibly a shallow Sterlite storage box, the kind made to go under a bed).
2)Then, you could do your dirt filler and planting in the box, seal the edges, and use some standard wood sealer on the plywood rim because it will just get misted - the watering would be going in the plastic container.
3)Finally, use a combo. of repti-bark, spanghum and spanish moss to hide the plastic box (although most of it will be under the "false bottom".
It wouldn't look as professional as yours, but might be a way to go at it a little cheaper.
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2.1.0 water dragons, 2.2 crested geckos, 0.0.3 turtles, 1.0.0 5-line skink, 2.0.0 anoles, 0.0.1 giant millipede, 1.0.0 uromastyx, 1.0.0 armadillo lizard, 1.0.0 veiled chameleon, 1.1.0 bearded dragons, 1.0.0 pictus gecko, 1.1.0 CA banded gecko, 1.0.0 Hondo, 1.1.0 corns, 1.0.0 dog, 1.1.0 cats, 0.1.0 wife, 2 SW tanks - 20H, 55

If you're going to go that route, I'd instead cut plastic to make a built in tray of sorts on the bottom of the enclosure. Even if it's some scrap sign board you pick up from a sign shop. I think that would be cheaper, easier, and less prone to seep water than what you suggested - assuming I understand it correctly.

You could either laminate the entire interior of the cage, cover it with fake rock work, or seal it with polyurethane.

Numerous choices.

Thanks for the tips. 'Preciate it.
Mike
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2.1.0 water dragons, 2.2 crested geckos, 0.0.3 turtles, 1.0.0 5-line skink, 2.0.0 anoles, 0.0.1 giant millipede, 1.0.0 uromastyx, 1.0.0 armadillo lizard, 1.0.0 veiled chameleon, 1.1.0 bearded dragons, 1.0.0 pictus gecko, 1.1.0 CA banded gecko, 1.0.0 Hondo, 1.1.0 corns, 1.0.0 dog, 1.1.0 cats, 0.1.0 wife, 2 SW tanks - 20H, 55

I talked to a technical representative from a company that markets both the clear fiberglass resins and the bar top epoxies.

He said that the fiberglass resins would work and cost less but that there would be a lot more work involved, a lot of nasty solvents to deal with, and the product would discolor.

He highly recommended the bar top epoxy for our type of application.

I mentioned the table at Outback Steakhouse (his company provides the product for Outback).

He said many of their contractors will warm up the resins prior to mixing and apply it in as warm of conditions as possible. Some will even call ahead and ask that AC be turned off, heat turned up, etc.

This reduces working time but allows the product to flow out better and achieve that high gloss look with a thinner coat.

This would help with the cost. I'm guessing you could use as little as 50% of the recommened amount. The next time I try it I'll mix up 2/3 the recommened amount and see how that goes. I'll apply it in a 95* room.

Hope this helps in case anyone is following the thread.

>>I would only use the clear, sandable/pourable fiberglass resin. I have never priced it nor do I know how thick of a film it requires. As such, I simply have no idea how much it will cost.
>>
>>Bar top epoxy, supposedly, requires a very thick build, making it the most expensive. But you can often find Envirotex in small kits, meaning you don't have to buy so darn much and store the excess.

>>However, I ate at Outback Steakhouse last night and noticed that my table had a very thin build of this epoxy and the table was still in great shape. I may experiment with these epoxies again and see if I can apply a thin build and still get excellent protection.