Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've recently purchased an albino leopard. She was eating regularly for a few days, but for the past few days she won't touch her food! I'm feeding her live mealworms and daily calcium (because she's a juvenile). I'm worried it may be a gastrointestional parasite or bug, especially since her droppings have been a little runny. There's no caking or smearing around her vent, but I'm still worried. She's my first herp, and I honostly have no idea what to do! Please help!

if you think she has parasites take her to a vet. she should go anyways if she is new. as for not eating she could be gettting ready to shed, or is stressed out, give us more info such as her tank set-up and temps.

I actually thought about shedding, but she didn't really show any signs of it. Of course, as I mentioned, I am an amature and she is an albino, so I might have missed the signs.

The tank setup is pretty basic, a ten gallon with slate tile for the flooring. The temperature seems to stay pretty steady around 80º F, according to my thermometer (I use an under-tank heater). She has a large hide with a moist paper towel in it to help with humidity.

hmmm... your set-up sounds fine to me, does she have enough hiding spots? normally when my leo prepares to shed he wont eat for two days prior to the shed. other than that all i can say is wait for someone else to add on and also possibly take her to the vet for a check-up so you can know for sure that she has a clean bill of health.

Temperature is not OK.

Leos need a warm side of at *least* 88F to properly digest & metabolize food. Up to 92 or so on the warm side is fine. They also need a temperature gradient so they can move from warm to cool to adjust their body temperatures since they are cold blooded (72-76F).

Without these temps to ensure the ability to thermo-regulate, the leo's digestion, activity, and immune system will suffer...making them far more susceptible to illness, parasitical infections, systemic infections, etc. etc.

Leos need a humid hide or "humidified shelter" too.

Lastly, don't take the leo to the vet yet...take a fresh fecal sample in to a local vet that specializes in herps/reptiles. If you ask around for prices and knowledge of herptiles, you can find a specialist who will do fecal exams to check for parasites at a reasonable price.
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Too many Leos
1.0 feline "Spot"
0.1 canine "Tika"

i was told anything abouve 85 is too high so sorry. and that the cool side should get to about 70. and when you get a new leo your supposed to take it to the vet, with a fecal, i mean why not take him to the vet and get him a clean bill of health.

So far all your information i've been reading is either half true or totally wrong. Where are you getting your information wrong and if you don't have a lot of expierence why are you posting answers?

I ment where are you getting your information from.

See, now I'm confused. BlueLeo, if the information I've been given isn't correct, could you explain to me what I should be doing? Also, if what you say about the temperature is true, what can I do to raise the temp? Currently I'm using an Exoterra under-tank heater.

Go with what cherribomb has said, he/she knows what they're talking about. You can boost the temps up to 88-92 by also using an infarred bulb, try a 40 and see where that gets you, and keep getting the next size higher until you get it, a 40 or 60 will probably raise the temps. Keep it on all the time because during the night you don't haev to worry about the light bothering them because they can't see it.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm having her checked out by the vet anyways (just to be safe), but I'll definately up the temp. I'll let you know how she does!

Amen, brotha'! lol

Look, Blueleo, we're actually getting along and in agreement!!

LOL. Yes, I know I can be an @ss...
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Too many Leos
1.0 feline "Spot"
0.1 canine "Tika"

we've been getting along quite nice lately

I would recomend getting the gecko looked at by a veterinarian who knowledgable in the field and with a special interest or specializes in them. I am a veterinarian that does so plus I breed leopards as well as many others. I would recomend a full exam by a knowledgable vet as well as fecal.

As far as care they should be kept in the high 80's to low 90's in the warm end and cooler around 75 in the cool end. A warm humid hide box is essential. I would recomend feeing at night if your not as they are nocturnal and especially albinos are sensitive to the light, more so as babies. As far as diet I would recomend feeing other food items. Mealworms have always been the staple diet for reptiles but I firmly believe in variety. I would offer mainly crickets (dusted w/ vits and calcium), waxworms, mealworms and even silkworms and butterworms(more expensive but very nitritious). I can go on for hours about their care that is the basics. Even if the baby eats I would still recomend an exam by a good qualified vet. I guess I just have that advantage that I am one.: )

I forgot to mention....besides a bowl of water keep a bowl of good quality calcium powder in the tank at all times. They will eat the calcium out of the bowl as needed and leopards have I calcium requirements. I often see too many of then with Ca def. and MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease).

She's still going to be checked out by the vet, but she's eaten some waxworms and crickets, so she's definately doing better. I'm investing in a good heat lamp and a more varied diet, and I have been leaving a small dish of calcium in the cage, so thanks for the good advise!

Try wax worms and crickets.