Reptile & Amphibian Forums

thanks for all of your help so far, my rudi is feeling more and more at home every day, however he hasn't exactly been the best eater. he has not gone for any of the life food items in pet shops, i am gonna try some turkey when it defrosts and if not i will buy crabs at some asian market since they eat that in the wild. i don't know for sure if he has eaten any of the crickets in his cage, but i haven't seen as many (however i have had him long enough to have eaten at least 3 times that) he did not go for a fuzzy, mealworms, raw eggs, and i caught a katydid and a walking stick, neither of which lasted a minute in his cage. however i have not found more katydids and he won't go for any more walking sticks. do you guys have any suggestions? i remember when i first got my timor he was a bad eater too, does this just happen with wild caughts and then go away?

also, should i deworm him? i know most forums are gung ho about deparasitising any wild caught, however i have seen some very different views here that i would agree with (parasites are natural in any living thing and the treatment is stressful and unnecessary if proper requirements are met). i would like some advice here in case this would help him.

another question is about the cage, the design i had turned out a lot more expensive then i thought. how much do you guys build your cages for? what do you guys think of a 6lx3dx4h, i can change all of these, i just think this would be like the bare minimum for the average roughneck. also what are your experiences with a sliding glass doors on the front of the cage? where would you guys suggest placing the ventilation vents? also, is all wood except for the front a good/bad idea? since i haven't seen him burrow at all, i don't think i will have a very deep substrate, i'm thinking leaves do i just get em from outside?) deep enough for him to hide in them.
i have him in an 80 gallon tank and he is like 2 ft long righ now, how long do you guys think he can stay in there? would the move be less stressful for him if i take him in that cage or if i take him in a pet carrier and build him a cage as soon as i get to davis? (i'm in san diego on break for the summer, i study in davis... to be a reptile vet someday hopefully)

any other suggestions or comments are more than welcome.

oh and since this might be a factor in his eating, i have not been handling him since i wanna give him room to get used to his cage.

thanks a lot,
jake

i love his expression in this picture:

He doesn't know what food is. Or so it seems by you mentioning tossing in every food item under the sun. He certainly knows what food is. So whats the problem? Most likely it is the husbandry rather then the food.

To address this it would be easiest for you to explain his setup and add pictures of his setup. Then we can help offer advice on what may be causing this reaction.

It however could also be stress related, either from being brought to a new home, you handling it( although I saw it said you have not), etc.

To releave stress do not handle your monitor. Be sure to offer plenty of hide areas within the cage. Cover the cage if need be for high traffic areas.

It also could be dehydrated as many imports are. Be sure a large water tub is located in the cage for soaking. Check to see if it is drinking. Be sure your humidty level is up 70-80% is fine can fluctuate higher or lower too. Exact science doesn't work well with animals.

Just say NO to deworming. If it makes you feel better run a fecal to your vet and have it checked. But I personaly frown upon using any dewormers.

I typically spend in the low to mid-hundreds to build my cages.
As for the size construstion etc. I believe I have addressed my thoughts before. Perhaps someone else can offer some new insight on that one. I know others on here keep rudis.

Get some pictures up of the cage setup. Preferably with the monitor inside so we can see whats going on.

well not exactly, but i do remember going through a symilar thing with my timor, i'm just thinking it's not what he is used to. he has been drinking and i just saw him soaking a little while ago for the first time in his cage. as for husbandry i really am doing my best, the humidity is right about what you said (i was worried that it was too low for him) basking spot is like 120, but he is rarely if ever on it, he prefers to be under the log. i have a waterbowl on the hot side of the cage if he gets thirsty and a tub for him to soak in on the other side, the cable in the pictures is for a fogger i use mostly at night and as needed in the day to keep up the humidity (i also water the dirt in the cage and the screen on that side is covered). ambient temp may be too high and i am working on that, but with a small cage and my room gets really hot down here in socal, it's hard. it isnt dangerously high, 80-90, but i (he) would like the cool end... cooler. i have seen him utilizing the hides and exploring more and more recently, so that's a good sign. here are the pics, i kept them large so you guys could see it in better detail (keep in mind it's temporary i know its small and stuff):

whole cage

hot side

middle

cold/humid side

i hope this helps, and thanks for the help
-jake

P.S. i noticed his tail looks pretty skinny in some pics, it looks healthy in real life, the guy at the pet shop said he looked alright (this is a reputable one in san diego, not some random one), though his hip bones show a little, he does have fat at the base.

Cage is ok but could use some improvements. First thing I would add more hiding choices. Some on the warm side as well as the cool side of the cage.

Be sure the cage is humid but not wet. Monitors do not seem to like a wet cage.

Here are some raise up cages I have used. Ambients from 70-90 basking surface temps 130-150. Humidity 70-80% give or take at times. Screen tops are covered or partialy covered over.

Where does the rougneck go to hide?? Denying your captive of hiding spaces(multiple hiding spaces that is), is a great way of inflicting unneeded stress upon him/her. They like to spend much of their time wedged inside of tight fitting crevices, logs, etc. This gives them a sense of security.

When looking at your enclosure, it is clear to see that it is set up for you, and not him. The way you have his enclosure set up is great for being able to view your captive whenever you like, however it offers absolutely no security for your animal. Think of it as a "stress chamber". Wild animals do not see us as companions, and get excited and happy when they see us coming towards them. They see us as big animals that are potential predators, and would much rather hide than to sit out in the open without a prayer...

Give him lots of tight fitting areas to wedge himself into. Granted, you probably won't see him much, but chances are he will come around and start feeding and feeling much more secure and safer, which in turn leads to a healthy animal.

Good Luck

ya... all very good idea... one other, is the fact that you have thos $3 humidity and temp gages.... go to Wal-mart and get a digital one and it might help ya out..
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0.1.0 BCI, 3 yr old
0.0.1 Ridge Tail Monitor, Juvi.
0.0.1 Leoperd Gecko, Juvi (My girlfriends)

thanks all for the good help, i actually do have a digital thermometer, but i keep em there to give me a ballpark range. i had given some thought to the hiding spot thing before. he has dug himself a couple burrows under the tub and he now has some hides in the hot side. i also realized something i wish would have occurred to me before, with the increased humidity, the light i had on there was heating up the cage too much, so i changed that. i think all of those changes have probably made his tiny cage somewhat better, he is more active and less "dehydrated" looking.
so thanks, but i would still like some comments on sliding glass doors, from difficulty/tips in building/obtaining to how well they function.
-jake

I would try building a "stack" basking spot so temp gradients work for him and hes can hide between them. This can be done with ply wood or if you are more concerned with looks you can do the same with some large flat cork bark. (See www.proexotics.com for how to build). Make the substrate a little deeper I have a brown rough neck and he uses all his hides as well as the foot of cypress to bury in. If you give them the proper "tools" they will use them and he/she will flourish.

Good Luck

Doug