Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi All,

If you had a chance what changes would you like to see on both Vision and Boaphile cages?

All input needed.

Thanks,
James

Without hesitation on Vision... SOLID FLAT TOP OPTION! Yes, I am yelling. SOLID FLAT TOP OPTION! SOLID FLAT TOP OPTION!

Pretty simple. No rocket science here.

Bill

Bill,

May I ask why a solid top option???

Thanks,
James

Thanks for asking.

So I can use an appropriately-sized radiant heat panel. The bigger cages have those useless shrouds and huge stuff sticking down into the cage (useless in the case of keeping the cage in room-temperature environments). If I want to heat a 6-foot cage for a tegu, for example, I need minimum 80-degrees cool end, 110 basking. A little 60-watt bulb shroud is a laughing matter in a 70-degree room. I need a solid top so I can mount at least an 18 x 18" or 18 x 24" RHP to get the temps I need.

And, I don't need the humidity-sucking and heat-robbing huge vents. I'm an original Neodesha fan and have a bunch of their original cages (before the a$$hole$ bought and destroyed the business a few years ago).

I think every cage manufacturer should take a lesson from Neodesha -- a big, simple, one-piece plastic box with glass doors and solid top (bulb and vent options -- vents can be on the sides) that you heat how you like and take outside by yourself and hose down. No silicone sealing or assembly required.

Whoever does this will have me as a repeat customer.

Not asking too much.

Bill

FYI, I'm talking about big cages. 6 or 8 feet. Everybody and their aunt makes 4-foot cages so there are many choices there. Also, I don't want to have to bolt two cages together and get that big=a$$ lip protrusion sticking up in the middle. And I want some depth -- 24" is not enough for me. 30" at least. 36" is better.

Back to the solid top option... my main concern is creating a proper cool end in a normal room-temperature environment. Sure, I can make a hot (belly heat) basking area with heat tape, but a foot away the temperature might be the same as the room I place the cage in. And, using a 60-watt bulb in a shroud that's very close to the animal may make a warm basking spot too, but again the cool end might be 70. Not acceptable for me.

Some folks assume that if they have the proper basking area all is well. But get a probe and measure the temperature on the floor in the cool end. Now consider a cold cage with a hot spot -- if you go off the hot spot it's like lying on a cold cement floor. Try it and see how you feel. Try it naked and see how you feel. If a tropical animal gets off a nice, warm basking area into a 70-degree cool area, that cool area is going to suck the heat out of it in no time. That's why you get animals that never stray from the basking area for too long.

Also, I like some height so I can view the animal and get into the cage for cleaning. 12" not enough for a big cage. 18" minimum. And, I want glass doors. I've seen acrylic warp and scratch very easily. Also, with a high enought flat-top cage you can install multiple-bulb banks inside the cage, like many monitor keepers do.

In closing, have you ever seen an 8-foot slant-front Neodesha? To me that is utopia. Fine one and look at it for a while. Consider its simplicity yet outstanding functionality. Then note that you could move it by yourself and take it outside to hose down.

Utopia.

Thanks for asking! Just my opinion.

Bill

I guess it depends on what your working with. I like the good ventilation and lite vents area on the Vision #400 and the others with the same style lite/vent. I personally think it's important to have fresh air as well good humidity control.(glass over the vent is easy to do)I also don't like the round lite shroud thing sticking in the cage as well as the ugly center support in the big models.14" height is adequate but I agree 18" wpould be better. But the price is right for the floor space.

I like the solid simplistic one peice construction of the Vision, the neutral gray color and the ruggedness. Neodeshas can crack if roughly handled. You can throw Visions down the cellar stairs literally and they'd be fine. A bead of silicone fishtank sealer under the bottom glass slider eliminates crud on the #400s and they clean easily in my experience. I don't mind the snakes having a "bunk" above the top glass, let em' feel they have a hideaway.lol. ( I don't keep aggressives or hots).I like the depth of the 26" and 28" cages for my purposes.The 36" seems like too much of a crawl to get in and clean.

No experience here with Boaphile except a wobbly Rhino rax I got rid of.

Like I said,I guess it depends on what you're working with.

Bob

Bring it!

The piece of heat tape surrounded by a cold cage is a laughable situation for anyone keeping animals that come from warm climates. I agree with you. I like a plain cage with glass doors and room under ceiling to mount whatever heater you need.

I also think overhead heat (or ambient room heat if you have it)is more effective than bottom heat for larger animals, especially those that come from warm climates. Temp gradients are much better for sure using overhead heat. No one can argue that, unless someone comes up with a heat pad that varies in watt-density (hence heat output)from one end to the other.