Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello all:

I was wondering if anyone happens to have caging plans for a cage that you have built for your adult burms. I am considering building my own since it will be cheaper than purchasing one, but would like some ideas from those who have done it.

Thanks, I appreciate your help!

Chris

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Chris Law
U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
Herpetoculture Element Representative

I use 3/4 ply for my cages. I prefer oak or birch.
Expensive but worth it.
You can get this at Home Depot,and have them cut two panels to 96x30. One large panel being the top, the other the bottom.
One 96x18 strip cut from the panels is the back, the other is cut to make the sides.
To make fronts I use oak lumber. Even more expensive than the plywood.
You can frame those in as you please.
Some people make large cut outs in the floor section to reduce weight.
Finishes...you have a million options, check out the caging forums.
I plan to try a non toxic finish on my next cage Polyureseal BP.
I heat my large enclosures with RHPs.

I hear pro products radiant heat panels are good, are those what you use? Do you prefer or recommend a different brand?

Thanks,

Chris
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Chris Law
U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
Herpetoculture Element Representative

After hearing, and reading so much about the Pro Products RHPs, I used those. man do they keep the big enclosures warm!.
I'm cheap...after spending all the money on cages and RHPs, I use a zoo med thermostat. Nearly three years, and no glitches.
I may spring for a higher end unit soon though.

I too use Pro Products RHP (got 2 of them) and so far not 1 complaint. I used a regular thermostat from home depot for about $13. It can handle up to 600 watts and these panels barely use over 100 I believe. I also like that they have a red light to tell you if they are warming or not. Hey quig, as for the cage, I would make one huge! My 12 footer is in a 6X3, 2 feet tall and he's ready for another one. I really think 10-12 feet is better for the length and more like 4 feet for the width. 18" - 2' is a good height but you gotta have floor space. When it comes to openings, don't forget you gotta be able to reach in to clean it!

One thing I'm toying with is a venting fan on a timer. It will only kick on maybe twice a day to exchange the air and therefor hold heat/humidity the rest of the time. Anyone done this before?
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DZ

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

>>I plan to try a non toxic finish on my next cage Polyureseal BP.

That product is barely different from any other waterborne polyurethane products and hardly suitable for a Burmese python. Their urates will eat that stuff up in no time.

However, that does not mean it's without use in a Burm cage. If you used a more durable option for the floor and first few inches of the cage sides you could get away with a waterborne polyurethane for the rest of the cage walls. Sure, it might need to be recoated every year or so, but the stuff dries so quickly that this is not a major deal. Unlike some epoxies or oil-based products that need to offgass for months.

But you're right. The number of choices for finishing cage interiors is huge.

a good, well built cage would cost me to build myself compared to ordering one from somewhere else?

Thanks,

Chris
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Chris Law
U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
Herpetoculture Element Representative

>>How much do you guys think a good, well built cage would cost me to build...

It really depends on what you mean by good and well built. My definition of that does not matter, yours does.

Other than the proper environment for the snake, what are your other concerns? Light weight? Cost savings? Long-term durability? Or is it to make a cage as attractive as possible?

For reference, it's when you try to combine all of the above that you start to run into problems.

Another big issue is how much work you are willing to put into the cage once it's up and running. This is related to long-term durability. For example, do you mind moving the animal out for an extended period to refinish the cage after a couple of years? Or would you rather spend more money up front to build a cage that you can just not have to worry about?

Here's a thread on another forum where I posted costs and pics of two big cages I built. Hope this helps
Housing info at albinoburmese.com

Thanks,

I was considering melamine because it would avoid the sealing and everything other than the caulking of the corners, of course. However, melamine seems a bit heavy and a large enough cage for an adult burm might be a little heavy. Also, how expensive is melamine typically?

Thanks,

Chris
-----
Chris Law
U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
Herpetoculture Element Representative

Chris,

You can get melamine for about $28 a sheet at Home Depot and similar places. However, it's not the highest quality stuff.

The melamine you get at cabinet specialty shops has a much thicker thermofused layer (vs. the melamine foil at Home Depot, etc.) and the particle board interior is also better.

The particle board interior does matter when building large cages as it holes screws or confirmat screws better.

I'm not a huge fan of melamine but it does end up saving $$, especially since you don't need to finish the cage exterior.

Laminating self-adhesive vinyl film onto the cage interior does wonders for the durability of melamine. And it's easy to repair. More on that later if you're interested.

Chris,

Well... I wouldn't mind having lightweight, but as long as it is manageable between two people comfortably that will be fine. Looks aren't really a big issue. I don't want a "bummish" looking cage, however. I certainly want it to be durable and able to last a good long while. I would personally prefer to have it built right the first time instead of having to "finish" it some time later. I am also having trouble figuring out how to make a big enough cage that could be fit through a slim hallway into my snake-room. I have had a hard enough time moving other items into there when they are bulky. I was thinking about building two 4' long cages, separated with some type of passage that the snake can move from side to side as it feels the need.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,

Chris

>>>>How much do you guys think a good, well built cage would cost me to build...
>>
>>It really depends on what you mean by good and well built. My definition of that does not matter, yours does.
>>
>>Other than the proper environment for the snake, what are your other concerns? Light weight? Cost savings? Long-term durability? Or is it to make a cage as attractive as possible?
>>
>>For reference, it's when you try to combine all of the above that you start to run into problems.
>>
>>Another big issue is how much work you are willing to put into the cage once it's up and running. This is related to long-term durability. For example, do you mind moving the animal out for an extended period to refinish the cage after a couple of years? Or would you rather spend more money up front to build a cage that you can just not have to worry about?
-----
Chris Law
U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
Herpetoculture Element Representative

Chris,

I only have a minute. Remind me to reply later - I don't check in on this forum often.

I am not a big fan of bolting two cages together, especially if it leaves a raised lip at the middle of the cage.

Moving large cages is always tough. I can't tell you how many times people have written me for advice on burm cages only to find they can't fit it into their house!

One option is to limit the cage length to the height of a doorway (just under 80" and then increase the depth of the cage to get the perimeter back. Having a very deep cage is often considered dangerous if you have to stick your face and torso into the cage to reach the snake all the way in the back. I'm not a burmese guy so I can't really answer what's acceptable. Personally, I am not a fan of cages more than 30" deep unless they are quite tall.

To me a 79"x30" cage does not seem like enough for a large burmese.

>>Chris,
>>
>>
>> Well... I wouldn't mind having lightweight, but as long as it is manageable between two people comfortably that will be fine. Looks aren't really a big issue. I don't want a "bummish" looking cage, however. I certainly want it to be durable and able to last a good long while. I would personally prefer to have it built right the first time instead of having to "finish" it some time later. I am also having trouble figuring out how to make a big enough cage that could be fit through a slim hallway into my snake-room. I have had a hard enough time moving other items into there when they are bulky. I was thinking about building two 4' long cages, separated with some type of passage that the snake can move from side to side as it feels the need.
>>
>>Any thoughts on this?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>How much do you guys think a good, well built cage would cost me to build...
>>>>
>>>>It really depends on what you mean by good and well built. My definition of that does not matter, yours does.
>>>>
>>>>Other than the proper environment for the snake, what are your other concerns? Light weight? Cost savings? Long-term durability? Or is it to make a cage as attractive as possible?
>>>>
>>>>For reference, it's when you try to combine all of the above that you start to run into problems.
>>>>
>>>>Another big issue is how much work you are willing to put into the cage once it's up and running. This is related to long-term durability. For example, do you mind moving the animal out for an extended period to refinish the cage after a couple of years? Or would you rather spend more money up front to build a cage that you can just not have to worry about?
>>-----
>>Chris Law
>>U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
>>Herpetoculture Element Representative
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Chris,

Would it be okay if I just email you?

Thanks,

Chris

>>Chris,
>>
>>I only have a minute. Remind me to reply later - I don't check in on this forum often.
>>
>>I am not a big fan of bolting two cages together, especially if it leaves a raised lip at the middle of the cage.
>>
>>Moving large cages is always tough. I can't tell you how many times people have written me for advice on burm cages only to find they can't fit it into their house!
>>
>>One option is to limit the cage length to the height of a doorway (just under 80" and then increase the depth of the cage to get the perimeter back. Having a very deep cage is often considered dangerous if you have to stick your face and torso into the cage to reach the snake all the way in the back. I'm not a burmese guy so I can't really answer what's acceptable. Personally, I am not a fan of cages more than 30" deep unless they are quite tall.
>>
>>To me a 79"x30" cage does not seem like enough for a large burmese.
>>
>>
>>
>>>>Chris,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Well... I wouldn't mind having lightweight, but as long as it is manageable between two people comfortably that will be fine. Looks aren't really a big issue. I don't want a "bummish" looking cage, however. I certainly want it to be durable and able to last a good long while. I would personally prefer to have it built right the first time instead of having to "finish" it some time later. I am also having trouble figuring out how to make a big enough cage that could be fit through a slim hallway into my snake-room. I have had a hard enough time moving other items into there when they are bulky. I was thinking about building two 4' long cages, separated with some type of passage that the snake can move from side to side as it feels the need.
>>>>
>>>>Any thoughts on this?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>
>>>>Chris
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>>How much do you guys think a good, well built cage would cost me to build...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>It really depends on what you mean by good and well built. My definition of that does not matter, yours does.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Other than the proper environment for the snake, what are your other concerns? Light weight? Cost savings? Long-term durability? Or is it to make a cage as attractive as possible?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>For reference, it's when you try to combine all of the above that you start to run into problems.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Another big issue is how much work you are willing to put into the cage once it's up and running. This is related to long-term durability. For example, do you mind moving the animal out for an extended period to refinish the cage after a couple of years? Or would you rather spend more money up front to build a cage that you can just not have to worry about?
>>>>-----
>>>>Chris Law
>>>>U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
>>>>Herpetoculture Element Representative
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
-----
Chris Law
U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
Herpetoculture Element Representative

>>Chris,
>>
>> Would it be okay if I just email you?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>
>>>>Chris,
>>>>
>>>>I only have a minute. Remind me to reply later - I don't check in on this forum often.
>>>>
>>>>I am not a big fan of bolting two cages together, especially if it leaves a raised lip at the middle of the cage.
>>>>
>>>>Moving large cages is always tough. I can't tell you how many times people have written me for advice on burm cages only to find they can't fit it into their house!
>>>>
>>>>One option is to limit the cage length to the height of a doorway (just under 80" and then increase the depth of the cage to get the perimeter back. Having a very deep cage is often considered dangerous if you have to stick your face and torso into the cage to reach the snake all the way in the back. I'm not a burmese guy so I can't really answer what's acceptable. Personally, I am not a fan of cages more than 30" deep unless they are quite tall.
>>>>
>>>>To me a 79"x30" cage does not seem like enough for a large burmese.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>Chris,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Well... I wouldn't mind having lightweight, but as long as it is manageable between two people comfortably that will be fine. Looks aren't really a big issue. I don't want a "bummish" looking cage, however. I certainly want it to be durable and able to last a good long while. I would personally prefer to have it built right the first time instead of having to "finish" it some time later. I am also having trouble figuring out how to make a big enough cage that could be fit through a slim hallway into my snake-room. I have had a hard enough time moving other items into there when they are bulky. I was thinking about building two 4' long cages, separated with some type of passage that the snake can move from side to side as it feels the need.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Any thoughts on this?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Chris
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>How much do you guys think a good, well built cage would cost me to build...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>It really depends on what you mean by good and well built. My definition of that does not matter, yours does.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Other than the proper environment for the snake, what are your other concerns? Light weight? Cost savings? Long-term durability? Or is it to make a cage as attractive as possible?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>For reference, it's when you try to combine all of the above that you start to run into problems.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Another big issue is how much work you are willing to put into the cage once it's up and running. This is related to long-term durability. For example, do you mind moving the animal out for an extended period to refinish the cage after a couple of years? Or would you rather spend more money up front to build a cage that you can just not have to worry about?
>>>>>>-----
>>>>>>Chris Law
>>>>>>U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
>>>>>>Herpetoculture Element Representative
>>>>-----
>>>>Current snakes:
>>>>
>>>>1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>>>
>>>>2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>>>
>>>>4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>-----
>>Chris Law
>>U.A.P.P.E.A.L. (Uniting a Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League)
>>Herpetoculture Element Representative
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

2.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

4.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

np

I've done it both ways. I bought a couple monster cages for around $600 each, and the RHP to heat them was around $150 each.
I can build a cage using high end materials, and it would cost around $350. Then there is time involved with labor
How much is your time worth?

I'm glad I found out about the Polyureseal before I bought. It's kinda pricey. The way the name has been thrown around I thought it was the end all to end all.I'll stick to either oil finishes and be patient. Or epoxy, but I will give the vinyl film stuff some thought. A friend owns a sign shop.
I was looking at goini's idea of bolting 2 4ft cages together.
I'm not totally against that with the raised center lip. Especially with a burm. That raised lip isn't even a speed bump. My litter dams are around 4" high, and burms go over that like it's not even there.
My next cage was going to be 96x30, divided in the middle for boas. Each getting 4 ft.
And then bolt them together. Eventually I want to stack my cages, to the two ends bolted together are perfect for supporting upper weight.
After all the wood cages are stacked, my turtle tanks were going to be on top.
Goini...if you need help on cages, email me.

Bob

Bob,

Most waterborne polys are expensive. I think in the polyuraseal situation they paid a bit for a "non-toxic" endorsement when they actually have more VOC's than Polycrylic. I'm sure it's a find product, but not suitable, IMO, for a burm. I might try a catalyzed waterborne poly but even then only for the cage sides. The floors just need more protection.

I somewhat agree about the raised lip, but I hate to see it on the rare occasion that a Burm is stretched out along the length of a cage and it's middle is up on the lip. It just does not look comfortable to me.

However, you could make the bottom part of that lip lower and use a substrate up to the level or over the lip. For strength other parts of the joint could be taller.