Reptile & Amphibian Forums

so these are (i think/hope) my last and final plans. easy to put together, take appart, (semi)affordable, and large enough for a while. also, thanks for the bamboo idea kevwat, it's definitely cheaper than corkbark so i'll use that at first.
of course no post comes without questions; can i put the heat lamp on top of plexiglass? what plants have you guys been succesfull with in monitor enclosures? i was thinking one of the thicker/bigger draceana, maybe a bush and/or some climbing plants, bromeliads. i prefer a naturalistic enclosure so other suggestions for this would be great.
here are the plans (feel free to critique/ask), i also put up a link to the waterland tub i'll be using. (i could not post the "big" version of the cage plans, so i provided a link and the "medium" version, in order to read it or properly see it you have to see the big version.)
gallery.pethobbyist.com/index.php?photo=238472&size=big
-jake

waterland tub

No, you can't put the heat lamp on top of the plexi-glass, unless there is a large hole cut-out for it. The plexi would melt.
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I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it.

- Jack Handey

I've learned a little with each cage that I build, and I'm sure you will too. This is the last one I built (cost $100) from a year or so ago, which has two major design flaws as I see it:

1.) Vents are on top, as opposed to on the sides
2.) There is only room for about 2" of substrate

Right now I keep my three small rudis in here. But, I'm going to be building several new cages over the next few months, and I'm looking forward to correcting a few mistakes I made with this one.

I'm also designing very large water bowls, etc, with colored cement. It's pretty fun, and I'll post pics when I'm done. So far, so good.

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I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it.

- Jack Handey

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I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it.

- Jack Handey

Is not this design. Its you thinking about a final or ultimate cage. The problem is, you have little or no experience with the subject of the cage, the monitor. How do you know, this is the direction you "should" take? How do you know, this design fits you, muchless the monitor.

Personally, I design cages that teach me about the monitors, not have a particular look. That is, I include the tools that the monitors use. I could careless about the looks. With that in mind, they tend to look like where you actually find the monitors in nature, not a stylized picture of a region.

For instance, a monitor home in nature is normally a hole in a dead tree, or a hole in the ground. This hole is there hole and is unique to that individual and that species. Then around that hole are basic supplies, like temp sources, moisture sources, and food sources(usually the farthest away) These areas they choose, include the above in the different seasons. Some may have to move up or down or over for another season. For instance, the heat source(the sun) moves thru out the year, the monitors try to find a home that has exposure year a round, but often they can't, so they have a winter home, summer home, etc.

Back to your cage. I think the very best cage is a cage thats moisture Proof and holds lots of substrate(of many kinds) and has flexibility, that is, many places for heat sources, big doors to move in and out, all sorts of furniture. A cage that can be completely changed as I, the keeper, learns more about the monitor in question, thru time.

Also, no matter what you make, the caged monitor will indeed grow tired of it very very quickly. This is another reason to have a cage that can easily be changed around to prevent this boredom.

What is a good cage? one that stands the test of time. I am proud to have built cages in 1991 that still work today. Work is, take the monitors thru generations and generations. That is a good cage. Thanks and good luck, FR

i mean no offense, but seeing as there are no cage plans available and i have to make my own. i did the best i could and i think that the cage will fit the best with both my needs and those of my monitor. as a college student i probably will be living in a new place every year and i will be moving back down to san diego probably every summer or so. i need this to be collapsible for moving around. when i do move the setup will probably change too . to be honest, i think that this cage, at least my vision of it, fits your above criteria. at least better than a solid wooden cage. i mostly wanna know (since i have no experience) if you guys (with experience) think it will work and withstand the test of time/monitor (even though everything can easily be reaplced, another cool thing about it). if you have any cage plans i would love to see them, i have been looking frantically and welcome new ideas. i appreciate all of your inputs and look forward to reading more (i hope). anything in the way of design, dimensions, anything else. cage plans would be awsome. thanks.
-jake

Jake, what I am saying is, a box with large doors, lots of places to place lites, and lots of depth for substrate. Thats it. For you, you could add, be portable, break down easily and be moved.

I have nothing to offer you, as I do not use the, "one cage for life" paradign. I use many different cages for different stages of life. I also have very permanent cages that would not fit your needs what so ever. I have a facility, not a cage.

I am only suggesting simplicity, which I believe fits your needs well. Cheers FR

thanks, how much is enough dirt? i was hoping i could fit enough in the waterland (i am also planning on using some extra frp or something else to raise the level of dirt/water to almost the rim of the tub and get the most out of it. i was also gonna place a small waterfall w a fogger to help with humidity since davis gets pretty dry and i was planning on making chickenwire cages for lights wherever i wanna place em in the cage. really i'm just seeing what he seems to like in this smaller cage now and it will be amplified in his new one. b/c of the design i realy can't have the large doors spanning the length of the cage as i originally wanted, i think 2 3X3 doors can be sufficient, i guess i can try to make it just one 3X6 door. or i could just devise a way for one of the side panels come off easily so i can get in there. the small thing on the bottom is a window i am making out of an extra piece of plexi i have now from another smaller cage.
thanks for explaining,
-jake

Doors, the best doors are sliding windows, they do not take up space and when installed inside out, the locks are now on the outside. They are inexpensive and come in many sizes.

Burrows and dirt, first what kink of monitor, a rudi, I believe?

They do not use dirt, they use leaf litter, decomposed wood(think inside of a dead tree) A burrow must include the whole lizard to be considered a burrow, which means it has to be greater in lenght then the monitor.

Waterland tubs are great, I use them for turtles and mertens monitors. But they would stink up the big one for this. If a good bottom is what your looking for, think about vision cages tort tubs.

Back to stinking up the big one, waterland tubs, the problem here is monitors are not turtles, monitors will move the substrate, whatever it is, and place it squarely in the water section, several times a day. That sir is called a bad design.

Now the question becomes, whats more important to your monitor, the water part or the substrate part. Monitors live in their substrate, whether it represents a hole in the ground or a hollow tree. Its their home. Water can be provided in many ways. From drinking water, to a tub. Consider a tub for soaking, assumes you have a dehydrated monitor that needs to be soaked. Otherwise, this type of monitor does not need a soaking tub. Of course a overheated monitor will also soak to cool off.

Again, good luck, FR

"Doors, the best doors are sliding windows, they do not take up space and when installed inside out, the locks are now on the outside. They are inexpensive and come in many sizes."

the ons i saw in home depot were like $150 and up, plus the opening was about the same size as the ones i am planning on having, except my doors swing out.

"They do not use dirt, they use leaf litter, decomposed wood(think inside of a dead tree) A burrow must include the whole lizard to be considered a burrow, which means it has to be greater in lenght then the monitor."

i'm all for this, but how do i go about replicating a tree burrow of these proportions? where do i get decomposed wood? i was planning on using leaf litter (if i do, how deep?) until i saw him digging all over his current cage. what about a little bit of both? also, where do i get leaf litter? i definitely don't mind trying it, i think it is more attractive.

"waterland tubs, the problem here is monitors are not turtles, monitors will move the substrate, whatever it is, and place it squarely in the water section, several times a day."

i have a tub in his cage now, and he still gets dirt in there everyday, and it is like 8 inches above the dirt level. i am totally prepared to clean that up. i looked at the large tub, isn't it almost the same thing but without the buil in water reservoir? (btw, branches will be everywhere in the cage and definitely gonna go over the water, so the space is not so much a waste, especially since i hear they are so highly arboreal... doesn't this also mean that he will be spending the majority of his time up there anyway?

"Now the question becomes, whats more important to your monitor, the water part or the substrate part. Monitors live in their substrate, whether it represents a hole in the ground or a hollow tree. Its their home. Water can be provided in many ways. From drinking water, to a tub. Consider a tub for soaking, assumes you have a dehydrated monitor that needs to be soaked. Otherwise, this type of monitor does not need a soaking tub. Of course a overheated monitor will also soak to cool off."

well i was planning on putting dirt (or leaves) in the water section and making the 1/4 land section into the water section. i really like the idea of being able to simply drain it, clean it, and fill it. i also think he enjoys the water, i have heard/read other accounts of this. also, nearly every time i take him to the beach (soon to be replaced by the creek when i get to college) he always goes for a dip and a swim. he also has a dorsally flattened tail, doesn't that evolve for better propulsion in the water?

thanks again,
-jake

You can get cheaper windows then that. The ones I purchased were only $25 each and are pleny big enough. I got mine from lowes. Also look through there clearance windows. I am sure there are other places to get bargains as well shop around.

If you do not have the right type of leaves in your area you can do what I do and order leaf litter online. I purchase large bags of it from John A. at cybersalvator. You can click the link on my site.

Now the rest of this lets see. The tail perhaps is used for swimming in the wild but it is used because they need to go from place to place via water. They do not need the water in the same way a fish needs water. Don't mistake the needing for using.
What they do need water for is to drink. If the cage is lacking humidty then yes they will need to soak to stay hydrated. But that would then be a husbandry problem causing this.

As for the water land tub water resivoir idea. You say you want it to make cleaning easier. draining etc. However if dirt and other things are tossed in it will probly clog up. Then the process is harder not easier. It then would be easier to lift up a water bowl and dump, rinse, replace, and fill it.

It is not a problem with the tools you have chosen it is a problem with how your thinking they will work and how you think they apply.

thing about the water reservoir, i hate carrying water bowls around, having them splash and stuff. rather carry a bucket and do that. i can scoop up the dirt no problem and the hole is big enough to where i doubt clogging would be an issue, and if it becomes one, i can't imagine it be that difficult to cure. maybe it is for me, but if he is gonna use the water area and i am gonna enjoy it, i do not see a reason not to install it(of course i will keep humidty and all factors at a proper range. i'm not gonna make him go in there for me.) furthermore, if it really is unnecessary i can fill it with dirt and put a waterbowl instead... right? sorry, i may be blind and i know i am stubborn, but i do not see what could possibly be so bad about a water reservoir and doors that open with hinges instead of rails. maybe i personificate my animals a little too much, but i can't see that being too bad. sorry if this email sounds harsh, is incoherent or w/e, i really do appreciate all your input, that's why i ask, but i am in the middle of packing up to head back to college so im kinda rushed.
again, thanks,
-jake

Take two sliding glass doors that are like $250 each at lows and mount them to a wall and then to each other so they make a 90 degree angle. Then take plywood and cover it and then install the lights in other things. I do not have any experience in building cages so does this sound good? I will need to build my deserts a new cage in a few months and I need some tips.
thanks
jake

You could build a much better cage for far less money.
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I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it.

- Jack Handey