Reptile & Amphibian Forums

We just got a hatchling U. geryi a few days ago. Is this cage sutible? The lizard darts into a hide when anybody goes near the cage, but we have seen it eating. What do you guys think?

What is that in the bowl your trying to feed him?

Collard greens, endive, and chopped carrots. With a calcium dust. We're thinking of taking out the playsand, at leat untill the lizard grows a bit. It like to dig and gets sand all over it's snout and we're worried that it will be ingested or inhaled. What do you think?

I also would sugget taking out the sand for now. Also, are the hides significant for him to feel safe. It's hard to tell if the broken pot pieces are enough to make an enclosure.

Hmmm, planting pots, I'll need to re-research that one for long term safety. There can be an issue with certain materials, especially one that are "fired" and/or glazed. Will post if I find out anything negative.

-Jim
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2.1 - Rocky, Runako, and RoxyIII (my care sheets)

As a potter I can speak to the clay pots.

In the US, commercially available raw clay is pretty safe. It's meant to be handled by potters & artisans. The biggest hazard it poses is in the form of dust (silicosis doesn't just affect coal miners). When clay is fired once (bisque or biscuit) it's generally unglazed, and it's still porous, but you don't have the dust problems. There is a small chance that someone digging their own clay could dig in the wrong place and get some contaminated clay, but commercially available clay is manufactured, not mined.

Glazes have an enormous variety of toxins, from lead to cadmium. Potters can purchase prepared glazes that have been lab tested for assurance that the properly fired glaze is food safe. Many potters choose to use lead-based glazes to get effects that are just not attainable with leadless glazes. Unless the glazed peice is labeled 'food safe' don't take the chance. Most of the 'scares' about unlabeled lead glazes on pottery have been pottery coming from outside the US.

Congratulations on your new family member!

It is very difficult to tell from the picture, what size is the cage? What is the temperature gradient? There are three temperatures that it is important to keep track of - backing spot temp, ambient hot side temp, and ambient cool side temp. The size of the tank needs to at least be big enough that the proper temperature gradient can be reached.

Unless you are using a combination light, it would appear that you do not have a UVB source for your little friend, and this is crucial to "his" development.

My other comment is that for a hatchling, I would not normally put them on sand until they are 9-12 months old. This is not a hard and fast rule though, and I am sure that there is much discussion to be had about it.

I was going to ask what you were feeding him, but you already answered. Be careful with the carrot in a Uro that size, but otherwise sounds good! and looks like it is chopped up very finely, which is great.

Good luck with your new pet, keep us posted, and ask any questions that come to mind!

Elizabeth
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1.0 Mali Uro Archimedes (May he rest in peace)
0.0.1 Egyptian Uro Zuberi Mosca Khu (Mosca)
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine (RIP)
0.1 Feline Winter
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