Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have a Burmese python skin, left to be cleaned by ants and the like.. it's in good condition, but it's starting to curl and Mold especially.
The Bone artist who I just received the skin from (It was a pet of mine which died unexplicably, left it to him to see what he could make of it) was an amateur but did soak it in Glycerine and salt it.. it's nice and flexible.. it's just molding.

I have it soaked in warm dish soap for the next few hours, I'm going to try and remove the mold.

But after that, any clue? Anyone know a good site/forum I can find info on this, or atleast someone willing to help me out?
I'm a total amateur, and I don't want to make extreme mistakes.. I just want to preserve the skin best I can.

Thank you in advance.
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2.5 Leos
2.1 Beardie
1.0 Burm
1.1.24 Common Boa
0.1 Sav (Bosc) Monitor
0.1 Monkey Skink
Wish for: Candoia Sp, Frilled D

I have prepared skins by painting them thoroughly with a 50/50 mixture of glycerine and 70% ethanol while they were stretched on a board. The ethanol dehydrates the skin and the glycerine replaces the water (I guess?). Those skins lasted for years that way. I got the recipe from a red-neck hunting magazine, so you know it works (they need them snake skins for their hatbands!).

I practiced on a couple of skins (Yuma King and Rock Rattlesnake) and those practice skins were fine 10 years later.
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Chris Harrison
San Antonio, TX

To include reptiles. On snakes this is what I recommend.

*On thin skinned snakes (rattlesnakes, colubrids, etc..):
Cut the snake down the belly with scissors. Try to keep in the center. After that you can just use your fingers and separate the skin from the carcass. It will actually just peel away by pulling. YOU MUST FLESH IT next. I use a taxidermy tool called a fish skinning knife. It is serrated (sp). Not sharp. Do not use a sharp knife or scalpel to flesh. I also use a dry preservative (powder) and sprinkle it heavy on the flesh side and use the fish skinning tool. The powder helps the tool grab the flesh. I then start at the head and work towards the tail, also starting in the center and scraping towards the outside. If it is too slimy, add more dry preserve to grab the meat. IF YOU DECIDE TO SKIP THIS STEP, YOUR SKIN WILL ROT. I then wash the skin by hand in the sink with dish wash soap to get all the dry preserve off (if not it will stain it white). I then tack it down with the flesh side up on a board, and I put the board at a 45 degree angle. I mix 1:1 equal parts of glycerine and rubbing alcohol. You have to really shake it up. I then use a small paint brush or tooth brush to brush the mixture on. The alcohol acts as a travel agent into the skin and takes the glycerine with it, then the alcohol evaporates, leaving the glycerine (softening agent) in the skin. The first coat will dry within a few hours. Just add another coat, wait for it to dry. Soon the skin won't dry between coats (it can't take anymore). Wipe off the excess glycerine and the snake skin should last forever. Do not wash it with water after that as the water will dilute the glycerine real fast. I have skins that I did in 1982 that are soft as can be.

*Thick skinned snakes (pythons, etc...):
Do everything the same, EXCEPT after fleshing and washing you will need to soak the skin in a degreaser. Taxidermy companies sell commercial degreasers or you can use white gas. I would soak the skin for a couple of days, take out and wash with dish washing liquid before using the glycerine/alcohol.

Your mold is not good. I would recommend fleshing the meat that is still on your skin and then degrease it. You might lose it as it sounds like bacteria as already set in.

Good luck.

Kerby...
Taxidermy pics