Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have found a baby Scarlet kingsnake which i almost cut in half with a mechity (sorry for the spelling) when cutting the roots of a overgrown palm at work he popped out and i picked him up, now he must have just recently been born as he is under 5 inches,and is transparent on his underside, i put in crickets which he probably wont eat they r pinhead size, i cant find anything that small, i was told to try lizard tails is that true? Please any information on feeding the baby scarlets would really be appreciated ill get a pic soon

One of the very first things to do is get an absolute i.d. on the little guy since scarlet snakes are sometimes confused with scarlet kings. Their diets can be quite different.
Anyway, scarlet kings will nearly always accept a local lizard species of appropriate size with skinks being maybe #1 on their list. Depending on where you are located there may be other options. I should mention that releasing may be one of the best.
If you cannot find a hatchling lizard or skink then a tail from a larger one will do. The fresher the better (as in still wiggling). Once you have an accepted fare then you can use that same ssp. to scent other items like mouse tails or parts thereafter. If you have an abundant supply of feeder lizards then I see no problem with you getting him to take f/t in due time if rodents/parts are a problem.
Your 5" snake may well be 6 months old by the way.
Please post pics so we can see him!
Good luck!
:Mark

From your description you have a Scarlet snake, not a Scarlet kingsnake. Scarlet snakes have a solid white underside, or in your case because of the age it might appear transparent.

If that be the case an immediate release of the snake is probably the best thing to do. They will eat in captivity but I have heard of many just withering away and refusing to eat.

First is it one snake or more than one. In your first sentence you stated"I have found a baby Scarlet kingsnake"
But in your last sentence you atated "Please any information on feeding the baby scarlets would really be appreciated ill get a pic soon"
Also I agree with Matt one that it sounds like a scarlet snake (not King)if it is a scarlet snake your best bet is just to release it, All the one I have ever been in contact with I could only ever get them to eat lizard eggs. Every once and a while I could get them to take pinkie parts scented with the yolk of a chicken egg (not often).
And if it is a scarlet king then lizard tails and legs should be accepted.Just make sure to stock up on lizards

Good luck
Toby
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Thanks for the information, i think your right also that it is a scarlet snake. Why are they so hard to keep in captivity? Here are some pictures(sorry the camera was dropped and pictures always get messed up now)

oh yes and the underbelly is white so im thinking it is a scarlet snake

I only hesitated to mention the belly earlier because I have found, kept, and hatched scarlet kings with white bellies. Most have fairly complete rings however.
That said, better pics would help but from what my poor eyes can see you may have a king. As I said in my first post as well, releasing is an option. Scarlet kings can be a bit difficult.
I have a "care sheet" from some time ago.
Here is an exerpt,

"Caring for young scarlet kings (Lampropeltis triangulum elapsoides) can be a lot of work. Because of their small size they require much more attention than most other king snakes and milk snakes. Especially at the neonate stage. Below are some hints and observations to help care for them.

Housing
Set- up can be as elaborate as you want, but simpler probably is better. I avoid a lot of "furniture" for the very small babies, as they can get "lost" in it and dry out QUICKLY. I use a small deli container that has a water bowl, a hide box, and substrate that is easily checked and cleaned. For young scarlet kings a simple home can be made from an 8 oz. deli cup (air holes of about1/16" in diameter punched in it around perimeter) along with two 1/2 to 1 oz. containers w/lid for one (the kind you might put mayo in at a restaurant). Holes for access are cut in them. In 1(placed upside down with lid on) put moistened sphagnum moss. In the other (placed right side up) will need to be fresh water for drinking. PVC end caps of 1" to 1 1/2" diameter can also be used as water bowls. They are inexpensive too. The enclosure you choose must be very secure with a tight fitting lid. Many commercial enclosures have loose fitting tops and holes that are big enough for hatchlings to escape. Check yours carefully. Although scarlet kings like to bury themselves, they will also climb, and if given half a chance will escape." Shoe box" type cages are o.k. for juvenile to small adults. Substrate can be paper toweling that is easily monitored for waste or uneaten food items, but does dry out fast. Sphagnum can be used too, but food items tend to get lost or stuck to it. Same with sani-chips or aspen. Make sure the enclosure is neither too dry nor too wet. Snakes can develop skin problems from constant contact with damp substrate.
Providing a hide box filled with damp sphagnum moss and as always, fresh drinking water are a must. Ambient temperatures between 75 and 82 degrees should be maintained.

Feeding
Feeding captive bred scarlet kings is usually not a problem as long as you give them what they want! In the wild scarlet kings seem to prefer anoles and skinks.( I think decaying wood is a major factor in that it feeds termites that feed skinks.. and so on..) Anyway, I try to start the babies on newly hatched anoles because they are readily available where I live. Some will not take a live one and are offered a dead one next. ( Captive hatched scarlet kings seem to be more apt to accept dead prey items). If they still refuse, a baby ground skink or 5 lined skink is offered. Sometimes a tail from either anole or skink can be cut to appropriate sized "bites". For stubborn newborns, a puree of the tail and water is rubbed on the desired food item to induce feeding response. If dead or cut food items are offered, I put them on a small plastic lid to keep track of feeding.. Which item they choose to eat is a key to switching them over to a desired (by you) food item later. I think they can live out their lives just fine on lizard prey items and I really never try to get my scarlet kings to eat anything else until they're much bigger since I always have a supply of feeder lizards. The possibility of introducing parasites from live food items is a consideration. Therefore, freezing food items for a week or so is best. Then thaw them well before feeding. Some keepers try this method FIRST in order to get their snakes accustomed to eating dead prey. Feed them as often as every 3-4 days to promote a desirable growth rate. I rarely handle these snakes( as they can be nervous and easily stressed), and never handle them just after a meal. When you've established a good feeding regimen they will respond and do well. Many people are frustrated when they try to get their scarlet kings to eat rodents. They'll try scenting mouse tails or pinkie mouse parts with the preferred food item as well as many other "tricks". For some it works, others it does not. Remember that keepers and snakes are individuals. When they ARE big enough, I'll rub a freshly taken tail (of the lizard species they've been feeding on) over the smallest pinkie mouse I can find, and try that.
Again, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't .It seems every keeper has his or her method and many different ones have worked. I do hear from customers who have little or no trouble with feeding their babies. I suspect many are experienced keepers and are willing to go the extra mile when caring for theirs. They knew what they were up against and did their homework BEFORE buying one .Some are very dedicated and quite resourceful. A man I know got his hatchling to eat pinkies (parts first) by scenting with chicken soup- like you might do to get a stubborn python to feed on thawed rats ! In a year it was on (small) pinks. So you can be hopeful. Be very attentive to them.
I have had babies that are eating well and otherwise in good shape die without showing any symptoms. It can be very frustrating and sad to lose an animal after so much work. You will get attached to them! You can expect a shedding cycle about every 6 weeks or so. More often if they are eating and growing well. They will probably refuse food during this time. Watch to make sure all skin is shed, paying close attention to the eye caps and the tip of the tail. Again, moist sphagnum seems to help them through this process. When shed is complete, resume feeding as usual. "
:Mark

Thanks for the information. The rings dont go compleltely aroud so thats why i think you guys may be right about it being a scarlet snake, but you said it still may be a scarlet king, so hoepfully soon ill be able to find out for sure. Thanks