Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Any of you know why do some anaconda's develop some white looking pimples underneath their scales at times? It's a white protrusion that looks like puss right from under the scales. my male just got one under his lower jaw. I suppose its natural and not a big problem. Anyone had the same, let me know please.

This is commonly referred to as "blister disease" and is caused by a bacterial infection within the skin just beneath the scales. It is usually initiated by excessive soaking by the individual snake or extreme humidity within the enclosure. Recovery can usually be achieved by temporarily replacing the current water bowl with one small enough to inhibit soaking and spillage. Polysporin could also be placed on the infection site as an added measure. Usually after a couple of sheds, the problem is gone. Just watch it closely and make sure it doesn't go beyond the "pimple" stage.

Kelly

Thanks Kell,

My green does seem to soak the hell out of himself however, I have noticed him bask a lot lately. He now spends most of his time basking and his pimple is healing that way. Another issue I wanted to address you with is:
I had this neonate for 2.5 months and he hasn't eaten a single offering so far. He is not diminishing yet, although his stomach is becoming hollow. I am not concerned yet, but maybe i should be at this point. I know my boa constrictor went 6 to 7 months off feeding for a few years in a row and was fine, ate well after that festing period. Should I try forcefeeding yet or should i give him more time? He is very adjusted to his biome and is in no way stressed out for the most part. There is a product called a "pinky pump" that is especially made for occasions like this. A syrange that pumps pinkies into the gut of a starving snake. I am thinking maybe i should get one just in case. I know many green neonates do not eat well, but how do people cope with this? Hmmm

I would not get overly concerned yet, but just make sure all environmental issues have been addressed. Enclosure temp. gradient 80 to 90 degrees, dark hide box, cage in an area of little disturbance, etc. The dark hide box is very important for newborn greens to feel secure. See my Sept. 17 response to your Sept. 15 post on this forum. I would resist the idea of force feeding except as a last resort. I would try a small rat dipped in chicken broth at this point if you haven’t yet. Mice are usually not a good choice for greens as many don’t care for them. I don’t remember if you have tried f/t chicks yet, but it sounds like that would be the next good choice at this time if the chicken broth fails. I don’t know if you have access to any, but live chicks are the top pick for young greens as very few can resist them. Also, it is best to feed in the evening shortly after lights out. Usually once a young green starts feeding, they are rarely a problem afterward. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Kelly