Reptile & Amphibian Forums

This may seem like a silly question, but it's really bugging me. I want to build a typical rack system. "Ladder" type I guess everyone calls it. It will be a divider in my bedroom. About 36" wide 42" tall and 96" long. Make of birch plywood. I have my own ideas on heat tape, but the placement of the sensor is driving me nuts.

I use a wire rack right now, and found by wrapping the biostat sensor with a small cloth, 2 layers under the probe, and what's left over it. I tape it to the tape. It gives me a good response, as I was watching cage temps as the stat was doing its job.

But in a rack system, it holds more heat. It is not convenient to have the probe in a cage. Place it in the wrong place and you'll get wrong readings.

If it makes a difference, it will mainly be for snakes. I might be getting 4 more big female balls adding to my 3.3. I also have about 12 hognose, I need to accommodate various sizes.

I was planning the balls on the bottom, and then maybe corns, if I ever catch my free roaming bloodred. Then top rows would be for my hogs. My logic is this will be the warmest area.

thanks
-----
Tom

www.herpzilla.com

I don't know what everyone else does but I have a 10 high rack. Solid ply save the fronts which are open of couse and the back I use reflectix.

I run a dual Ranco setup the one that turns the power on and off I tape to the side what would be half way up the tub it the middle rack. I know people say you should set it on the tape or over a piece of plastic so you get a good reading but I used my heat gun and dialed it in pretty good its set at like 85 and the tub air temp gets to about that so I am happy surface temps are a little warmer but not bad the tubs don't sit directly on the tape.

Anyways the emergeny ranco which kills power to the first is set it the same manner but instead on the top rack figured like you this would be the hottest. Its set to kill at 90 and rarely goes off when the furnace kicked on this winter I had to adjust accordingly.

In this process I have learned a number of things truthfully the temps in each tub are around the same. Also Heat guns are the best tool in the hobby save for a good hook. And if I had to do it all over I would make my tubs run on rails not slide in and out on there own.
My 2 Cents
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

Kindof what I was thinking, find a spot that matches the tub temp. And a damn good excuse to buy a temp gun. I love toys. Also I never thought of a duel stage temp shut off. Even though I did it to my incubator. DUH. What can I say, my brain works then freezes up.

I'm surprized you get enough heat off the sides? but I guess since it is also enclosed it hold more heat than my wire rack that I am using now.

Now I want to rethink that portion. If I go to rails. If I do, I'd probably use cat litter pans from the dollar store,a favorate for mice cages. You can not see thru them, but I'm not really able to see hognose in aspen and other bedding thru a plastic sterile tub.

do you run it up both sides of each column, or just 1?

My idea was to use lids with my rack. But this was I could increase cages space by a LOT.

thanks much
-----
Tom

www.herpzilla.com

>>Kindof what I was thinking, find a spot that matches the tub temp. And a damn good excuse to buy a temp gun. I love toys. Also I never thought of a duel stage temp shut off. Even though I did it to my incubator. DUH. What can I say, my brain works then freezes up.

Hey, its alright we all hae them from time to time. So more than others!

>>I'm surprized you get enough heat off the sides? but I guess since it is also enclosed it hold more heat than my wire rack that I am using now.

I also use the reflectix on the back my intention was for a solid back but stapleing the refecltix was way easier. It even provides lateral strength. With it in place all the radient heat is reflected out the fron creating a gradient from back to front. The set up took some tinkering in the begining but now runs worry free.

>>Now I want to rethink that portion. If I go to rails. If I do, I'd probably use cat litter pans from the dollar store,a favorate for mice cages.

Only problem with litter pans is most have a slight curve of the edge that doesn't fair well in a rail setup. I used concrete mixing tubs for my rat racks when I breed them. They were made by a manufacture called Argee you can get them at home depot. Worked great for the rats never used them for reptiles.

>>do you run it up both sides of each column, or just 1?

Did you mean the tape or the sensor. If you mean the tape I weaved it up through the shelves so it is on one side or another. If you mean the sensors they are on the same side but different levels.

>>My idea was to use lids with my rack. But this was I could increase cages space by a LOT.

I personally don't like lids I think they get in the way and you have to full remove the tub to check on the animal not convenient. Exspecially if you are just doing temp checks.
-----
"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

Thanks for the info first.

The litter pans I have used from "the dollar store" are $2 and straight edges and a good lip. I also just home depot cement tubs made by plasgad. There use to be a distributor in Cali that would sell 100 for $4 each DELIVERED. Now the company changed names, and are not listed on the plasgad site:

http://www.plasgad.com/html/building.htm

thanks again
-----
Tom

www.herpzilla.com

I meant that these particular pans are straight. I know exactly what you mean as we sell ones that are curved.

they are good for mice too.
-----
Tom

www.herpzilla.com

"My idea was to use lids with my rack. But this was I could increase cages space by a LOT."

And thats a good reason to get more snakes..lol
-----

www.MGReptiles.com
Professional Reptile Heating Supplies