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Wanted to share a picture of my Geckos. Kirmy is the larger one, she is the female and Alberto is the smaller male. I purchased Alberto as an Albino, My first question is well is he an albino? Also Kirmy dosnt look like your run of the mill Leopard gecko to me, Is she any special color phace or anything? I hope to some day be able to breed these to but Albertos just a little man right now. I purchased Kirmy a couple years ago and she made a home ontop of my dresser "With my wifes disaproval LOL" I purchased Alberto a couple weeks ago. I was a lsittle scared to put them in together at first but just did it and watched them closly for a while and so far no scuffles.

she is a high yellow, he is def an albino, prob Tremper. and ple seperate them for a few more months. you ought to be quarantining any new geckoes anyway.
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1.0 Hypo stripe, Het Rainwater from JL (BJ)
1.0 HypoTang from Crested (Apricot)
1.0 Tremper Albino (Cloud)
0.2 Hi-Yellow Leopard gecko (Beatrice, Pepper (het stripe))
0.1 Normal (Freckles)
0.1 SHCT Leopard Gecko (Brite)
0.1 Tangy Mutt Leopard Gecko (Rainbow)
0.1 Tremper Albino (Leucy)
RIP Peaches, Ghost, Bill
Hatched: ~25

Your big girl looks like a hypo as well. the little one is def an albino.

You really should seperate them though, leos shouldnt be housed together anyway...especially not a male and a female. Plus, all new additions should go through a 60-90day quarentine

cute leos!!

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0.1 Bearded dragon (Hannabil)
0.1 mexican Black kingsnake (Morticia)
2.1 Leopard Gecko's (Pogo,Jeffrey Nothing, Louise)
0.0.1 Tokay Gecko
1.0 Blue Tongue Skink
0.0.1 Reverse Okeetee Corn (Autumn)
1.0 Blood Red Corn (Virus)
0.1 Bullmastiff (Asha)
4.1 Cats (Poe, Tucker, Abhid, Felicity, Emmy)

Lol you guys confused me with all your genetics lingo, Can you please rereply with stupid man laguage? I guess your right about quarentineing. I know he has been housed by himself for several months at my local pet store. I guess IO just trust them to much. Why should a male and female not be housed together anyway? All my Leopard Gecko books say its fine just dont house 2 males together. Thanks for the help thus far.

Kirmy is a (hypo)

Alberto is a (albino) he looks (albino tangerine) to me but he is defferntly a albino look of tremper line but not 100% though.

What dose Hypo mean? Sorry for my lack of knowlege on this subject. I am hoping they will produce some nice young one of these days but I realy would like to learn about all these morphs, How to I.D. Them so on and so forth.

Hypo means reduced/less spots

Breeding them two together should give you some very pretty babys .

These would be possible results from breeding them.

(tangerine albino x hypo) = (tangerine het albino,hi-yellow het albino,hypo het albino,hypo tangerine het albino,All these babys are a possiblity .

Now if you have struck it lucky and kirmy is het albino then.

(tangerine albino x hypo het albino) = (tangerine het albino,hi-yellow het albino,hypo het albino,hypo tangerine het albino,albino,albino tangerine,hybino(witch is a albino hypo),all these would be a possiblity.

Have a brose on this web-site (very good) has info and genetic info also.
Link

Gosh I hate to be a bother, All that sounds good but I have no clue what any of it means, I take it however that its good. Well it sounds good.Did I get lucky by purchasing these 2 for $69.99 each? Would all those posable young you mentioned go for about the same price? My hope would be to sell the young either via my website or to the local pet store where I purchased both of them from. I dont even know what to charge but I guess I can do some searches on the morphes you posted and see what others charge for them. hmmmm

I would say that $69 is about averidge for both morph.As to the baby price's it would very on the morph of the baby.Also this years price may not be next year price your best bet would be look in the kingsnake classifieds-ads (leopard gecko) look a the name learn the look of the morph and the prices and learn what name go with what morph you should soon pick it up .

Holly Cow. I just put the 2 on the scale for the first time. Kirmy is very hard to keep still but the mest mesurment I got was 25g I figured she was a lot heavyer than that. Alberto came in at a wopping 12.7g. Hmmmmmm I think I read somwhere they had to be 50 somthing g before breeding.Should I do the weigh in with full or empty bellys?

Kirmy looks heavier than 25g. Try putting her in a plastic container to weigh her, you might get better results. It doesnt matter if their tummies are full or empty.

As far as why they shouldnt be housed together...here are some reasons...

1. The biggest one is that when they are old enough to breed they will, and will keep doing so. If Kirmy is constantly being bred she will not have time to recharge between each mating. It takes a lot out of a leo to breed and lay eggs and they need some time to get their strength and weight back up after breeding. If they are housed with a male, the male will just breed her again as soon as she lays the clutch. Eventuall she will lose weight, fall ill and die if not separated. Its best to keep them seperate and introduce them only for breeding. One thing you can do is house one male with 2-3 females, this means the male will have other females to distract his attention and they wont be constantly bred. You still may want to take the females out after they lay and keep them alone while they recoup.

Here is something i typed up about beardies and why they should be housed alone...substitude the word Leo for beardie, and you will see my point. There are many issues if animals are housed together.

1. Dominance Aggression/Stress: Many people make the mistake of assuming that aggression is displayed only through head bobbing, throat puffing, and physical attacks, but this is incorrect. While its true that these are SOME of the ways that dominance/aggression can be shown there are other, subtler, and probably more dangerous (because they can be harder to notice) ways. Usually when two beardies are housed together, even females, one of them will be more dominant than the other one, the more dominant one will usually take the best basking spots and the most food. Getting less food and taking second best basking spots chronically will become stressed; chronic stress will lead to failure to grow and thrive and parasite infections. Even if the more dominant beardie doesn't "take" the most food, their presence will often lead to the less dominant one not eating us much. A good analogy is to imagine you are back in school, you are sitting down, about to eat your lunch and the class bully plops down right next to you to eat his lunch...you are probably going to lose your appetite. Right? Now what if that happened every day? Sometimes if the two are together the more dominant one will bask sitting on top of the less dominant one, many people will mistake this as a sign of affection, and think that the BD's are friends, but its actually a sign of dominance. The biggest issue with dominance aggression is that it leads the other beardie to always be stressed, and over time this will cause his immune system to falter and will allow for parasites to multiply in the system. You will often hear people say they have had two beardies together for some time with no problems and then one of them grew much bigger while the other stayed smaller...this is typically what happens, if they are not separated and treated the smaller one will usually end up dying.

2. Physical Aggression: Not much needs to be said about this, physical aggression is when they actually fight. Chasing, biting, scratching etc. Obviously this leads to drastic problems such as stress, infections and lost limbs. Sometimes beardies will appear ok with each other for months or even years and then one day they begin finding.

3. Positive Sex Identification: This is a problem that frequently gets over looked when people consider putting two dragons together. Dragons cannot be sexed 100% until they are close to a year of age. Educated guesses can be made, but without probing there is no sure fire way to tell. There are a few problems that can arise from this. If you get two baby beardies and house them together and they turn out to be a male and a female and you don’t notice in time they will probably mate, and probably when they are two young. Mating when they are too young causes serious problems for the female, producing eggs takes a lot of nutrients and energy...energy that young dragons need to be using to grow. Young dragons that are bred are more likely to get sick or become egg bound or have other problems related to reproduction. If it turns out they are two males, the beardies may be able to tell before you do and you could come home one day to find they have been fighting. It’s possible that one may even kill the other.

3. Disease, spreading and identifying: Another issue when dragons are housed together is disease. First and most obvious, if one dragon gets sick, its housemate is going to get sick also and then you will have two dragons to treat, not just one. Also, say you come home one day to find a suspicious looking poo (smelly, runny, and nasty) or some vomit, there is no way to tell which dragon is having a problem, unless you can constantly observe them. Or, how do you tell if they are both defecating? If one dragon was to become impacted (or has another issue causing constipation) you may not be able to tell until it’s too late. You will still be seeing fecals, but will be unable to tell which dragon they belong to. Also, one early symptom of disease is lack of appetite, when beardies are housed together its harder to tell who is eating how much. This is especially true if you keep veggies in the tank constantly, or often. You may set out the salad, walk off, come back later and find it all eaten...but who has eaten it? There is no real way to tell, you may not notice one dragon isn't eating until you see significant weight loss.

It sounds as though you are very new to this, which isn't bad, but you may want to spend some time doing a bit more research and learning before you start focusing on breeding. Breeding, especially in a colony (one male to several feamles)results in many babies, which in turn need space, food, heat..then there is finding good homes, dealing with medical problems..etc. It can be very overwhelming if you are not properly prepared.

For the longevity and health of your geckos it would be best to keep them in their own seperate homes

hope this helps!

Feel free to IM me on AIM at ObscureRendition if you have any questions
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0.1 Bearded dragon (Hannabil)
0.1 mexican Black kingsnake (Morticia)
2.1 Leopard Gecko's (Pogo,Jeffrey Nothing, Louise)
0.0.1 Tokay Gecko
1.0 Blue Tongue Skink
0.0.1 Reverse Okeetee Corn (Autumn)
1.0 Blood Red Corn (Virus)
0.1 Bullmastiff (Asha)
4.1 Cats (Poe, Tucker, Abhid, Felicity, Emmy)

Ok that makes sence I did not think about them constantly breeding. Maybe its best to house them apart, or at the very least I will remove kirmy for rehab afer each mating. I will also reweigh her is a container to try and get a better mesurment. I figured she was hevyer than that as well so I was a bit surprized when I saw the low weight. Thanks for the help

Ok got a new measurement. I put the container on the scale, hit the TAR button to zero the scale out and put Kirmy in the scale She now comes in at 29.3g witch doesn’t seem like a whole lot more to me but who knows. I figured she would have shed a few grams while chasing her around trying to get her in the container LOL Alberto using the same method cam it at 12.9g rather than the 12.7g I got before but the first time he just sat on the scale and looked at me like "When I get bigger I am going to kill you LOL" I have been doing some reading on genetics this morning "thanks for the site its great" Ok so let me try this, If I am wrong please speak up, I don’t think I have heard anyone tell me that Kirmy is definitely this or that but heard the Tangerine morph tossed around, since this is a line bread trait then its anyone’s guess as to weather or not the young will have the trait. I think its pretty clear that Alberto is an Albino so if I am not mistaken "Trying to use accurate terminology" all of the young will be het for Albino correct?

.
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~~Tania~~
1.0 Chinese Water Dragon - Jake
1.1 Leopard Geckos - Chorky and Gilbey
1.0 Maltese Shi Tzu Mix - Mosley
RIP 1.1 Med. Geckos - Mary and Peter

Just from personal experience I have had two geckos in the same cage for years. You have to keep the cage clean, enough food for both of them, and enough hideouts and space for them to get away from each other. I have had 45 gram females back down 95 gram males. So if they don't want it he isn't going to get it. You still have to mionitor there weight during breeding season. Although I havn't had to seperate them once because she was undersized. She breeds for spring and thats it. I don't even change lights or temps on them.I keep all my other breeders seperate but for other reasons.
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Brian
www.thewindycitygecko.com

Hey thanks for all the replys thus far they realy are a big help. I may just keep them together and keep a close eye on them, if things get out of hand then start separating them. In there enclosure they share one water bowl but there are 2 hides "One for each indevidual" Kirmy has lived in this enclosure for a long time and had her big rock mantion that she squirms in and out of every day. The funny thing is when I purchased Alberto I purhcased the entire disply not just the lizard " As of late every lizard and or snake I buy I purchase the whole thing. This way you know your geting just about everything you need and since they are already alimated to that enclosure it helps to cut down on the stress" Albertos display had a little bark half circle cave thing "you know what I mean I'm sure" I put that in his new enclosure on the other side of it from Kirmys cave. For some reason they both like to pile in ontop of eachother in this little bark thing no matter that there is a mantion across the street. Anyway thanks for the help keep it comin.

It sounds as though you are very new to this, which isn't bad, but you may want to spend some time doing a bit more research and learning before you start focusing on breeding.

I second that!
and personally, I do keep my females together, but with that kind of size difference.
But as usual, Altered Mind raises some very good points you need to think about. Keeping a colony definiatly requires a lot more vigilance than singles
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1.0 Hypo stripe, Het Rainwater from JL (BJ)
1.0 HypoTang from Crested (Apricot)
1.0 Tremper Albino (Cloud)
0.2 Hi-Yellow Leopard gecko (Beatrice, Pepper (het stripe))
0.1 Normal (Freckles)
0.1 SHCT Leopard Gecko (Brite)
0.1 Tangy Mutt Leopard Gecko (Rainbow)
0.1 Tremper Albino (Leucy)
RIP Peaches, Ghost, Bill
Hatched: ~25

Actualy I am not new to keeping herps at all. I am somwhat new at keeping Leos. I had one when I was younger but I was unresponcable and it ended up dieing, I have had Kirmy now for about a year, However I just got Alberto and have never had, housed 2 leopard geckos together. My education as far as Herps in general is with. Fence Lizards, Alligator Lizards. Boas, B. Pythons, Iguanas, Gopher Snakes and King snakes. Thanks for the help its much apreciated.