This post is in response to a post by Terry Dunham in a strand last week. I’ll include a link to that strand below. Terry, sorry it took so long, but I’ve had a tough week and am very limited on time right now. Sorry also for such a long response.
Me..>>The thing is snakes are used to a variety of temps....
Terry D..I don't think this is necessarily true. If you're speaking of wild-caught snakes, absolutely. If you're speaking of captive-reared snakes raised by someone who kept them in an environment with varying temps, probably true, again. But if we're speaking of captive bred animals that have been raised in conditions with relatively stable temps, i believe those snakes are used to that, adapted to that, etc., and may fare as well or better under those conditions than under varying conditions.
As you say, it's important to keep our minds open--absolutely true--and i think this concept is another one worth factoring into these considerations.
Terry, I was referring to snakes in the wild as being adapted to varying conditions and certain extremes of temperatures. I agree with you that snakes in captivity can and do become adapted to captive conditions to a certain extent. Many become domesticated, so to speak, i.e. the corn snake. The point I made, “varying the temps might help”, was just a suggestion. Sometimes snakes in captivity revert to their wild instincts, depending on which species and other factors. I should have qualified that statement. I like your point, however, and I think it would make a great topic for discussion. I think where we might disagree somewhat is on, “What conditions are best for our snake to adapt to?”
When someone says, “My snake won’t eat”, that could be for a lot of reasons. We start making suggestions for the “why” because we don’t know all the factors that went into the management of that snake. It’s possible that some baby snakes have a strong instinct to brumate/hibernate and maybe a cool down period will spur some activity later on. Maybe varying the temperatures on a daily basis will spur activity, if your snake is adapted to hunting under cool conditions. But as you (Terry D.) have pointed out, snakes are also adapted to captive conditions, and I would think a vast majority of the snakes sold in the U. S. are like this.
I have worked with Eurasian ratsnakes since 1988 and most of my knowledge of behavior and captive conditions come from this experience. I have always kept a few corn snakes for a control group too. Most of the Eurasians from the northern zones are adapted, in the wild, for a brumation/hibernation because of cold winter temperatures. I have had limited success in getting them to stay active longer into the season, but it does work to an extent, depending on species. For example: the Russian ratsnake, Elaphe schrencki, is a northern species that has a very short active period in the wild, from about May to September. Freshly imported snakes are almost impossible to keep active past early September. However, babies can be kept going almost all winter, and future captive generations often can be kept going into October with some individuals even longer. (I’ll qualify that by saying I live at about 45* North latitude also. Some folks might have better luck living in southern states.) The Chinese twin-spotted ratsnake, Elaphe bimaculata, on the other hand, comes from central China (Yangtze Basin) which is somewhat subtropical. It is closest to the corn snake in natural behavior and can be kept going all winter, if necessary. However, they do desire a brumation/hibernation period and will benefit from that.
As far as our kingsnakes go, some come from the northern zones and may require a brumation/hibernation period to do well, and others come from southern areas and may not need a brumation, or at best a short, “cool” time, imho. If a person gets a baby from a breeder who has had them in captivity for a long time, I would say the chances are the baby is adapted to conditions in captivity which would allow it to probably stay active year ‘round. Whether this is the best way to keep them or adults is another question and will require more thought.
I really think folks see different behaviors according to how they keep their snakes. It’s always interesting to hear about how people keep the snakes they are talking about and when no information is posted along with a statement, such as, “My snake won’t eat”, then it is really hard to respond to such a post. Maybe, as a followup, herpers can give examples of how their animal has adapted to the conditions they have presented to them, or maybe some don’t even think captive animals can adapt, and may want to chime in with that.
Currently, I am raising up a pair of mexicana, a number of young getula, and my partner and I have several w/c adult getula. I have kept other kingsnakes in the past as well as working with our native t. triangulum for many years. My thoughts on conditions for kingsnakes in captivity are based largely on my thoughts about captive snakes in general. I try to keep an open mind and don’t think that what works for me is necessarily the best for everyone. I’m sure others have other captive conditions that work well for them.
Thanks all….TC
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Ratsnake Haven...researching ratsnakes since 1988 
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