Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Sorry, I know this is a very common topic on this forum. I just would like to know the best course of action since I'm new to hognose snakes. My hatchling was eating great for the first few weeks but is now going on 4 weeks without eating. Should I cool, or continue to try and get him to eat. So far he's refused split brained, decapitated, tuna scented, gecko scented, and live. I feed in a deli cup (leave him in overnite). He's kept on cypress mulch deep enough to burrow in. Temps are low 70's with a hot spot of about 95 provided by a UTH. Several hides are provided as well as clean water. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I would not let him hibernate, too young and with out food for 4 weeks. I would raise the overall temp to be around 85 during the day. dropping to the 70s at night.
I find that my weserns eat on a more consistant schedule when temps are like this.
Nick

Sounds like you are doing everything you can! I would go with herper79's suggestion of raising the temps further. Also, switch to or add an overhead heat lamp since hognoses burrow to escape high heat. Also consider the value of full spectrum lighting. Proper lighting for such a dirunal snake is grossly underestimated I think. Just to experiment, you can go with with a cheap "full spectrum" incadescent bulb (not really full spectrum, but at least puts out UVA). Otherwise, limit handling and disturbance, and keep in mind mind that 4 weeks is not that long even for a small hog, and you might have to wait it out.
-----
If there is a just God, how humanity would writhe in its attempt to justify its treatment of animals. - Isaac Asimov

Human industry has been in full swing for a little over a century, yet it has brought about a decline in almost every ecosystem on the planet. Nature doesn't have a design problem. People do.
William McDonough, architect and designer, Sierra Club magazine

I would try different fish scents, some of my southerns are eating pinks scented with an english fish called the roach(similar to your shinners) and the other one is taking herring scented, being a fisherman i have lots of fish in the freezer. The other thing I used to find good was garter grub, alas you can no longer get it in the UK.Good Luck.
-----
www.hognose.co.uk

A bit more heat would help. BUT ! if this snake has been feeding fine for even a few times on unscented pinkies then it knows that they are its food and you will just mess every thing up by trying to feed it scented pinkies or split brained or any other things you might try. so why would anyone EVER GO BACKWARDS? I just don't get it ! snakes don't just feed on unscented pinkies for a while and then one day decide, HAY, WHAT WAS I THINKING? Im not supposed to be eating pinkies, I think I will just starve myself tell this guy feeds my what I am supposed to be eating. ... and that is why all the other things you tried did not work ! it already knows what its food is so why confuse it? it will eat the same thing it has been used to eating when it is ready. so raise the temps a bit and leave it alone for a few days and try feeding it again . if it does not eat just try again in a few more days. if it still wont eat after a few months or seems to be getting thin and weak let us know and we will help you then.

if someone can tell me why anyone would EVER have the thought of going back to scenting or any other method of feeding when a snake has been feeding fine on what ever, please let me know. I can not see any reason for it. so why make things so hard when you don't have to?

any one agree? or am I all alone on this one?

I pretty much agree with you Jim. No sense in making things harder, and the snake has indeed already learned what food should be. Alas, these moody bastards don't read the books to know how we think they should act, so we are forced to improvise. Many people have reported on here getting a hog to feed on scented whereas that ate unscented without issues. I think people just freak out about a snake not eating (being guilty of projecting endothermic behaviors on an ectotherm) and resort to almost anything. If it has indeed been an extended period of time, and the snake is loosing weight, by all means, start thawing out guacamole if you have to. But I think Jim, does have a well reasoned argument, but I'd like to hear from other people's experiences.
-----
If there is a just God, how humanity would writhe in its attempt to justify its treatment of animals. - Isaac Asimov

Human industry has been in full swing for a little over a century, yet it has brought about a decline in almost every ecosystem on the planet. Nature doesn't have a design problem. People do.
William McDonough, architect and designer, Sierra Club magazine

I just thought it might give the snake a different 'trigger' to feed, it has worked for me on a few occasions and you just gradually reduce the scenting till they are back on unscenteds.
I only have one hog in 60 that insists on scenting to eat, a male het albino and he will only eat a mouse if it is rubbed on a live Rankins Dragon first!(the rankins dont seem to mind too much).
-----
www.hognose.co.uk

I agree, people just need to give it a little more time before scenting. I swicthed my WC mt.king to uncented with out scenting at all. I just waited untill he was really hungry and before he started loosing weight. The other thing I like to do is mimic as close to possible thier habitat. Of course nothing that could possibly injure the animal. This seems to make them more comfortable and therefore better apetite.
Nick

Thanks for all the replies. I'll raise the temps, add the light, offer unscented FT and see what happens.

Hey Cool, What's crackin?
I know some snakes don't like to be touched or moved right before feeding. Any way to just feed in their normal enclosure?
I've had success getting my babies feeding by keeping them on paper towels and dropping the pinks right in there without disturbing the snake. Good luck to ya,
P.S. I suspect you are not allowing the deli cup to cool off when you feed?