Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I recently purchased a pair of c.b. wlp's and they refuse to eat. After arrival, I gave them about 5 days before offering f/t pinks. 2 days later was live pinks (which they were said to be eating), followed by brained pinks. Lastly, I placed them in paper bags w/ live pinks, the way I was told they were fed. I've force-fed twice, in the hopes of triggering a feeding response, with no luck. Temp gradient is from approx. 75 to 90 degrees, with humidity of 70 - 75%, three hides, cypress mulch bedding, damp sphagnum moss, and a soaking dish. Any help would be appreciated.

Your environment setup sounds good, but I would give them more adjustment time. If they have good body weight they will be fine without eating for a while. I wouldn't force feed them unless they are very underweight. This may also stressed them out and a reason for further refusal. Leave them in seclusion for a week or so and try f/t or live pinks again. Feed them at night as they are nocturnal. Try not to disturb them so they can become acclimated to their new home. You didn't mention how old they are. If the weather has been cooling down they may go off feed for a short time, but I think it is probably stress of new home. Good luck.

Robert

>>I recently purchased a pair of c.b. wlp's and they refuse to eat. After arrival, I gave them about 5 days before offering f/t pinks. 2 days later was live pinks (which they were said to be eating), followed by brained pinks. Lastly, I placed them in paper bags w/ live pinks, the way I was told they were fed. I've force-fed twice, in the hopes of triggering a feeding response, with no luck. Temp gradient is from approx. 75 to 90 degrees, with humidity of 70 - 75%, three hides, cypress mulch bedding, damp sphagnum moss, and a soaking dish. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for the advice. They've been in a seperate room from my other herps for about three weeks now, with no disturbances, and I was thinking the same thing about cooling, especially since they were very cool after shipping. I was also thinking of scenting w/ anoles or geckoes. Any thoughts?

The snakes are 3 - 4 months old according to supplier.
Another concern is the vent on one of the snakes. It is crusted and swollen and has not improved for the month I've had it. It looks like it was damaged while being popped. Have you ever seen this not permanently damage a snake?
Mike

Personally i would never offer lizards or amphibians as a meal, simply because if it actually works chances are there never going to accept rodents after that, not to mention they carry disease. How big are the white lips? If they are 5 mths old pinkies seem alittle to small which may be why they arent responding. Try a live rat pup or hopper mouse if that doesnt work leave it in the cage over night, these items are too small to inflict any damage to the snake. As to the snake with the swollen/crusty anal section doesnt sound good, id suggest bringing it to vet and have it treated. Have you spoke to the breeder about this? If i were you id contact him about both these matters. Good luck
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1.1 suri redtails
2.1 chondros
1.1 womas

The snakes are only about 12 - 16" in length and slender, so pinks or fuzzies seem appropriate, but I'll try something a bit larger. As for the anoles, I planned on using them for scenting and not the actual food source, so they could be weaned off the scent. I've been in constant contact with the dealer, and he's tried to be helpful, but did not seem too concerned about the vent, which kind of bothered me. Also, his company is in WA, and I'm in NJ, so trying to return snakes that are already stressed would probably be a bad idea. Kind of a catch 22. Thanks
mike

I thought you meant you were going to feed it anoles...my bad, you could also try rubbing the mouse/pinkie with chick down, or dipping in chicken broth...worked before for my chondros. It would piss me off to if a breeder sold me a snake with a health problem. Has the snake deficated since youve had it? if you bring to get checked out you could atleast tell the breeder that there is a problem and what it is exactly. Maybe youll get a exchange or reimbursment on the vet bill? Are the WLP's captive bred or farm bred? Best of luck
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1.1 suri redtails
2.1 chondros
1.1 womas

One snake has defecated, but the one with the vent problem hasn't. They were hatched in captivity from wild collected eggs, according to seller. I'll talk to him again tomorrow. I'm a bit hesitant to give specific names of dealer or wholesaler. Don't want to piss anyone off.
mike

Yea i would contact the seller, i have a feeling i know who it might be.
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1.1 suri redtails
2.1 chondros
1.1 womas

mmm...reassuring! I'll do that. Thanks again for the advice.
mike

I would seek vet's advice on the condition of the vent. It could be a reason that one won't feed. I know you said they were CB, but I would suggest while you are going to the vet to have a fecal done on both to make sure there are no parasites.

Robert

>>The snakes are 3 - 4 months old according to supplier.
>>Another concern is the vent on one of the snakes. It is crusted and swollen and has not improved for the month I've had it. It looks like it was damaged while being popped. Have you ever seen this not permanently damage a snake?
>>Mike

thanks- neither snake has fed since I got them, and I have alerted the seller to the vent problem. He's offered to take them back, and is sending me heat packs for shipping. If either feeds within the next week, I'll invest in vet costs. If not, the seller will take them back and treat them. Thanks again for all the help.
mike

Hi,

well, it is not really unusual for neonate wlps to refuse food anyway. I wondering why one would want to buy an animal that obviously had never feed by itself?!

From my experience I would suggest to provide little hairy mice that can move fast. Wlps are especially stimulated by fast moving prey in a small cage and they love to strike from above a perch or from under the ground (hole in a root log or something similar).
For the probs with the vent. Is it really the vent or just the belly?
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http://www.leiopython.de - the white-lipped python site -
http://www.herpers-digest.com - herp related eBooks search -

hey Wulf-
I was told the snakes were feeding weekly, or I wouldn't have chanced it. Ironically, I transfered both snakes to plastic shoeboxes w/ perches and coconut hides two days ago, and placed hopper mice in each box about 20 min. ago, so I was glad to see your post. As for the vent, It is definitely the vent, not the stomach, so no chance of it being from the yolk sac. I was told the snakes were popped before shipping to guarantee sex.
I read some of your posts on the white lipped forum, but had trouble getting on. Is the site still active. Thanks
mike

One thing i can suggest as i had two that were that way a while back. if you are going to try and feed them F/T, then i can suggest this... depending upon size, if they are young, try feeding hopper mice. what i did with mine was this....... I would take the snake out of his enclosure and then leave the recently thawed hopper inside of his hide box then reintroduce him back into his hide. if they don't eat it immediately then leave it in over night and if possible cover the cage so that no light gets in. this is the only way that two of mine will eat. they will never take them from tongs as they act as if they are intimidated by the mouse dangling in front of their face. hope this helps...

Yea please dont force feed your balls it really stresses them out and can hurt them alot. Wait some time in between trying new things if they dont eat one way wait a week dont try something new the next day, also you might want to try to feed them some fuzzy mice instead of just the pinky they should have no problem eating them size wise and some snakes just arent interested in pink mice so some fur might help, give it a try and I hope this helps.