Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've often wondered this. As I've said this before, I'm not a regular venomous keeper, though I do acquire several native venomous snakes each year. I keep them for a few weeks then release them. A few days ago, I released a small eastern diamondback near my home. I haven't actually needed to handle a venomous snake yet. I move the ones I acquire with tongs or a hook, and I've never had to treat a venomous snake for any illness or disease.

But for those of you who have sizeable collections, do you handle your snakes regularly? What method of handling do you use? Do you have direct access to anti-venom for the species you keep?

RP

That's a great question and one I get regularly at our wildlife center as we have an extensive collection of venomous herps. My feeling is that there is NO need to "handle" hot stuff the way you envision. Everything you need to do with them can be easily done with trap boxes, tongs, hooks, tubes, etc. Even "tail and hook" methods that may be necessary for elapids can be minimized to some degree. Anyway, great question.

Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center
Lake Forest, IL

>>I've often wondered this. As I've said this before, I'm not a regular venomous keeper, though I do acquire several native venomous snakes each year. I keep them for a few weeks then release them. A few days ago, I released a small eastern diamondback near my home. I haven't actually needed to handle a venomous snake yet. I move the ones I acquire with tongs or a hook, and I've never had to treat a venomous snake for any illness or disease.
>>
>>But for those of you who have sizeable collections, do you handle your snakes regularly? What method of handling do you use? Do you have direct access to anti-venom for the species you keep?
>>
>>RP
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Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL

What do you do, say, if you need to remove an eyecap after shedding (or if you need to remove sizeable portions of unshed skin)? I've seen people on television holding cobras and removing eyecaps with small tongs. Are those the times when handling is unavoidable?

I also know that if you're going to keep venomous snakes, you must be ABLE to handle them. But that doesn't mean you SHOULD handle them unnecessarily. Just wondering where you experienced keepers draw the line.

And thanks Carmichael for your reply.

RP

Having only worked with viperids and crotalids, I have seen that regular "handling" of animals tends to make calmer captives that aren't as jumpy as those snakes that don't regularly feel the end of a hook or tongs. I keep a collection of rattlesnakes at home, and I can definitely see a difference in behavior in animals that are handled more frequently. Everyone has a point in saying "handle your venomous as infrequently as possible" because in any encountere there is an inherent risk factor. I think that it is more beneficial to me to handle my animals regularly so they are more comfortable with me, I get my practice, and I get to really intimately understand each animal's individual personality. If an animal did need some kind of emergency assistance like removing an eye cap, I would feel more comfortable around an animal that received regular handling. I've worked with many, many wild venomous and keep a fair number of captives, so I think that I have a good population of individual animals to compare behaviors with. These are just MY opinions though - I would never suggest someone with little venomous experience to go handling their snakes every day. I just hate to see any question only receive one side of the answer spectrum.

While I'm on the fence, as I should be in this debate since I don't keep hots, eye caps are never an emergency. Misting/humidity cycles may help, and if they don't then a planned, controled tubing will suffice in allowing a very low risk removal.

For true emergencies all the above utensils may apply, but the most important one will be sedation; and that of course relies on already having a hot herp vet which from what I hear is much harder to find then a reptile vet

Great debate though, and I've enjoyed the accompanying pictures

Ian

I couldn't agree with you more. The venomous herps in our exhibit are interacted with on a regular basis with the keepers via hooks, tongs, forceps, etc. What I was referring to was the act of "free handling" a hot herp just for the sake of handling them. Our animals get plenty of interaction and are very calm animals. Just my .02.

>>Having only worked with viperids and crotalids, I have seen that regular "handling" of animals tends to make calmer captives that aren't as jumpy as those snakes that don't regularly feel the end of a hook or tongs. I keep a collection of rattlesnakes at home, and I can definitely see a difference in behavior in animals that are handled more frequently. Everyone has a point in saying "handle your venomous as infrequently as possible" because in any encountere there is an inherent risk factor. I think that it is more beneficial to me to handle my animals regularly so they are more comfortable with me, I get my practice, and I get to really intimately understand each animal's individual personality. If an animal did need some kind of emergency assistance like removing an eye cap, I would feel more comfortable around an animal that received regular handling. I've worked with many, many wild venomous and keep a fair number of captives, so I think that I have a good population of individual animals to compare behaviors with. These are just MY opinions though - I would never suggest someone with little venomous experience to go handling their snakes every day. I just hate to see any question only receive one side of the answer spectrum.
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Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL

Yeah, free handling is just plain silly. I would never handle an animal unless the business end was totally controlled. IF I hook and tail a snake the head is in the hook without any room to be biting me, and if that snake starts to slip a little bit or move around they're put right back on the ground or in the cage. Keeping out of strike range keeps you from getting tagged, no matter what. Although there are snakes that take double and tripple strikes, which makes things messier. (I know a biologist that experienced this with one of the research animals, but I've never had an animal do it to me)

Once again, free handling is not necessary. We use two methods to take off retained eye caps:

1) We have some tubes that have slits on the sides. When the snake is in the tube we can get tweezers through the slits to take off caps. If this doesn't work, then we resort to...

2) Tubing the snake again and then once the head is just past the other end (while still having the body restrained to prevent a sudden complete exit from the tube) we use a safe pinning device to simply pin the head (while snake is in tube) and then use long tweezers/forceps to take off the cap....no direct contact necessary!

>>What do you do, say, if you need to remove an eyecap after shedding (or if you need to remove sizeable portions of unshed skin)? I've seen people on television holding cobras and removing eyecaps with small tongs. Are those the times when handling is unavoidable?
>>
>>I also know that if you're going to keep venomous snakes, you must be ABLE to handle them. But that doesn't mean you SHOULD handle them unnecessarily. Just wondering where you experienced keepers draw the line.
>>
>>And thanks Carmichael for your reply.
>>
>>RP
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Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL

I agree with everything Rob says, except I strongly disagree with "tail and hook" procedures. Be it elapids or anything else.
I cringe when I see pictures in the Venomous For Sale of people "tailing" cobra's, etc.
There is ABSOLUTELY NO reason for "tailing" venomous snakes. PERIOD. If you can't remove or transfer a venomous snake without "tailing" it, then you need to get out of the hobby, because you lack the skills of properly handling venomous snakes.
JMO!

Randal

Thirty years of keeping venomous has taught me one thing. If you are not in range of the fangs, you don't get bit. In Fla we have Venom One for anti-venom and their recomendation is to leave it to them.

Of course, if you never get bit then its a moot point.

As to eyecaps,I have learned proceedures for dealing with that (tubing is the best).

The vens I do keep are either small viper or rearfang. I take the above advice and never keep elapids at home.

Frank
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"The luxury of not getting involved departed with the last lifeboat Skipper..."

I understand that you want to keep any handler out of any possible strike from a venomous snake, but tailing large venomous is much more comfortable for the snake as opposed to simply tonging or hooking a snake. All of the snake's weight is going to be forced down on that small region of hook or tong when you are moving an animal- if you are able to (judging by your handling skills and the snake's general behavior) safely hook/ tong and tail a snake it is most assuredly more comfortable for the animal. Taking a 6 foot, fat-a$$ gaboon with just a set of tongs or a hook is ridiculous. Animals like that need to be tailed (AFTER they are hooked and contained) so you manipulate them. (IMO) Even using two large hooks leaves the animal more in control of the situation that using your hand to guide the back end.

I meant to add that saying there is NEVER a reason to tail a snake is just wrong. Definitely not something that is necessary, but there are times when tailing can be safer for the keeper/animal.

Mike,
We can clearly agree to disagree here.
Using 2 hooks on a heavy bodied snake, i.e. Gaboon, Puff, etc. is far better than one hook and using your hand to control the tail.(or extra weight).
If you properly use 2 hooks on a heavy-bodied snake (as mentioned) you CAN support it's weight while making a quick transfer to a bucket or another holding, while cleaning it's cage. Gaboons are notorius for doing a 360 degree on someone holding it's tail. I have witnessed them totally flipping over backwards towards their tail, to see what the source of irratation/restraint might be!
I state again, there is NO reason to "tail" a venomous snake with the tools, (hooks, tubes, trap-boxes, nets, etc) that is available to day.

Tailing a venomous snake is an accident waiting in the wings.

Randal Berry

BTW, I never "TONG" a snake.
I use tongs for offering food items, removing sheds, or moving a water bowl.

Randal

I see what you are saying, and I think I wasn't quite as clear as I could have been. If I were presented with a snake that wildly did not like being touched at all, I would use two hooks for sure. But with snakes that are accustomed to being manipulated I find it easier to tail them than to use two hooks. For sure, if I had a snake that even looked like it was ready to strike at me I would simply NOT tail it in any circumstance. There is a difference between snakes that simply won't accept being touched and those that deal with it. Just personal observation, but I haven't had any wild caught gabbies around me that hook around like you mentioned.

If you wait for my gaboon to look like she's going to strike, chances are, your gonna get tagged!! She, like all gaboons, go from nice friendly smile to filling a rat with venom faster then you can blink your eyes.

She's a cutie

Al
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"Snakes in Peru are not there for decoration, they really bite people."

Professor David Warrell, Omaha 10/21/05

I almost never handle my snakes, as Frank said, you're less likely to get chomped. When it is required, I use two hooks if required for a big snake, one if they hook well. I use my tongs to get water bowls & stuff in and out of cages. I tube when they need to be handled for Vet. proceedures other wise they look nice behind the glass.

I've seen too many snakes defy the laws of physics to even think of tailing them...My gabby can touch her tail in half a heartbeat while looking the other way and cover another 2 feet past it in the other half. As close to having "Warp Drive" as they come.

Al

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"Snakes in Peru are not there for decoration, they really bite people."

Professor David Warrell, Omaha 10/21/05

but snakes can be conditioned like any other animal to handling procedures. Everyone takes the hands off approach on the internet (because it it PC), but with a person that understands animal behavior there is a middle ground. These are not malicious animals - we know that. They respond to the activities in their lives. I don't know where I am going, but I think that experienced animal behaviorists should be able to relate to their captives individually based on their 'personality.' Call it what you will.

generalizations are inapropriate. Every snake behaves differently based on where it came from and what experiences it has had. You asses a situation by the animal, it's past, and what job needs to be done. That's all that I am saying. I genuinely believe there is a difference between people that try to understand animal behavior and those that just work with the animals because it's fun, or whatever.

...gabbies that won't strike until you smack them in the face. (I've seen them!!!) There are different ends to the spectrum - experienced handlers are able to gauge where an animal lies.

Yes, all my snakes are individules with different dispositions that I know well. It' NOT an acceptable risk to be taking in my estimation. It brings to mind Clint Eastwood in Dirty Harry "Was that 5 shots or 6, do you feel lucky today?" Improper handling and not repecting the animal (slapping it on the head) will eventually be disasterous, not if but when.

Al

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"Snakes in Peru are not there for decoration, they really bite people."

Professor David Warrell, Omaha 10/21/05

I think a person thinking they can gauge an animal or be able to read how it's going to react is an absolutely ridiculous statement. I don't care how "conditioned" one thinks the animal is,it is STILL a wild animal with wild animal instincts. In my opinion if one thinks they can read a hot snake and their moods, they are a bite source waiting to happen. Remember the guy who lived with the bears? The same guy who thought he knew the bears and had them conditioned? Well he didn't and he paid for it with his and his girlfriend's life. It scares me to hear someone talking about how they know the animals and knows how they are going to act. You can't train or condition instincts. They can be the most placid animal in the world, and at some point have a bad day. It's not a risk I'm willing to take.

"you can take the animal out of the jungle, but you can't take the jungle out of the animal"

EXCELLENT POST! TJP!

n/m

I personally have no idea of Mike's level of experience and I know there are plenty of people with far more experience than I have but I sort of look at the levels of experience I've seen this way (making it up as I go):

Beginner: Doesn't really know how most snakes will behave.
Level 2: Knows how some of his snakes will behave some of the time.
Level 3: Knows how most of his snakes will behave most of the time.
Level 4: Knows how all of his snakes will behave all of the time.
Level 5: Realizes he was wrong at level 4 and any snake just might do something completely unexpected the 863rd time you pick it up.
Jedi: Knows about level 5 but behaves like level 4 because his reflexes are good enough.

I know one Jedi and I have a picture of him in the hospital to remind him (and me)...

The trick is to learn early on that no snake is COMPLETELY predictable and handle accordingly.

I think some of you are getting your panties in a twist a little bit too much about this. I never said that you can predict everything a snake does. That's just stupid. What you CAN see is whether a snake is reacting with agression or passivity. Duh, never put your finger next to a venomous snakes head. No $hit. But you sure as hell can tell when a rattlesnake doesnt want to be touched ie. rattling, moving away from you, hissing, head hiding, striking, etc.) With Bitis, it's not too difficult. You get hissing, body retreating, flattening of the head, etc. Here, I'll even give you some photos to show what I am saying, and I will interpret how I would approach said animals.

Here we have a snake that I personally collected myself and have had for two years. This snake is obviously not alarmed that I am in the room, have opened her enclosure and am taking a closeup photograph of her. Were I to manipulate this animal I would use tongs and probably stabilize her tail with my hand (oh my goodness!) because I know that this snake is rather placid and not prone to aggressive behavior. Let's move one.

Here is another snake that was captive bred in my house last year. This snake has never struck at me and doesn't use his rattle when I am around. I've opened his enclosure and he isn't too happy about my presence, but isn't reacting aggressively. But he does look a little disturbed, so I would be more likely to stay hands off with him. Now another one.

This guy is REALLY not happy that I am opening the cage door, let alone standing in the room! I wouldn't touch this snake if you paid me. Tongs would be the only option, and I probably wouldn't even use my usual 24 inchers on this puppy. I'm talking at least 36 or 40 inches because atrox can be downright viscious.

One more picture for fun.

Ok, that was great. Now I just want to further clarify that I don't freehandle my hots, and don't go tailing all my snakes all the time. The only points I wanted to make are 1. regular handling makes calmer captives (if you don't agree then you are clueless about animal behavior), 2. It is possible to safely hook and tail an animal that is not in an agitated and stressed out state. Anything more than that is misinterpreted by the sensitive nature of venomous keepers. And as for my experience, I don't have anything to prove to any of you that don't know me. Those that do can see that I am qualified to handle my snakes as I see fit. And I don't think too many of you have to answer to animal handling/ control boards, or work for a large institution and thus have to answer to them should anything happen (and yes I do have actual certification for handling venomous animals for the research that I have been doing for the last 5 years).

As this appears to be your first time on this board, please understand that like I said, I had very little to go on as far as your level of experience, so please do not be offended.

"And then there are those......gabbies that won't strike until you smack them in the face. (I've seen them!!!)"

This sounds a bit like something the above mentioned Jedi Snake Handler once said to me while free handling a 5 foot gabbie that I had seen earlier (when he was not around) shake the entire snake room when it struck the glass after someone 3 feet away moved slightly.

"There are different ends to the spectrum - experienced handlers are able to gauge where an animal lies."

And my point, more for the less experienced here who might read your words and take them too literally, was simply to add the words "most of the time" to the end of this sentence because, believe it or not, there are plenty of handlers who think they do know exactly what the snake will do at any time. From your reply, you do not sound like one of them, but that was not entirely clear from what you said above.

Excellent post Larry.
Mike,
Don't insinuate or assume people don't know animal behavior.
There are a lot of people who post on this forum that have many, many years experience with venomous reptiles.

However, I work Venomous snakes 65 hrs. a week, and have been doing so in a zoo for over 16 years, (40 at work, give or take 25 at home). I NEVER assume their posture or behavior. I have some calm ones, and some that are explosive. Sometimes the explosive ones are calm, and vice versa.

So you have a small crotalid collection, so your crotalids act as YOU describe them. So your crotalids are calm. That doesn't mean that ALL crotalids exhibit that behavior. But you pontificate that ALL venomous snake behavior can be read by their posturing, etc. Remember, they are still dangerous and UN-PREDICTABLE animals! Your not that good at predicting what a snake will do, and no one else is either.

Randal

Hi Randal -

I know that there are a lot of people on this board that have many years of reptile experience. I also know that there are people that think they know what they are doing that really don't have a clue. I'm not trying to take away from your experience because of course I am sure that someone like you would know what he is doing. Because you have a different handling method than someone else with experience doesn't make what you or they do inherently wrong. And for the record, I have a larger crotalid collection than you do right now (but am trying to find adoptees for a few out here) and in the past have worked more than 65 hrs a week working with hots. My research is wrapping up, but during the data collection I worked with venomous in the lab and in the field. Our lab collection has exceeded 50 Crotalus atrox that were going through feeding trials over a period of ~3 years. We also maintain almost all of the dwarf Bitis in the lab, and have been doing so since they were collected in Namibia years ago. When I wasn't working on animals in the lab, I spent many nights and days at my field site where we have marked about 200 atrox. My field study group varied from 14 to 29 radio tagged animals that many weeks I would visit on 3 separate overnight trips. Many nights I would encounter up to 7 unmarked atrox that often had to be tubed, bled for hormone trials, measured, weighed, or used for any other type of data that was useful to the trial. We also have a colony of 30 Heloderma and other venomous snakes that might be off display in the public area downstairs. Anyway, I've worked with venomous for the last seven years, 5 of them "professionally" if you will.

On another of your comments, that which you think I "pontificate that ALL venomous snake behavior can be read by their posturing, etc." PLease show me where I said this! I never tried to insinuate that I can magically read "all venomous snake behavior." If you think that I said this, please don't! You obviously haven't been reading what i posted very carefully, and are taking things a little too far. The only times that I have ever had a close call with hots were three times and I will describe them here: The first time was with a lepidus high on a mountain - one of the first hots I ever worked with. (didn't have "formal training" at this point from anyone) Almost got me that time but I learned a valuable lesson with snakes. DON'T USE A tiny tiny telescoping POCKET HOOK EVER!!! That and I needed a lot of practice. Second time: neonate Bitis caudalis that I had to hand shed because the enclosures in the lab SUCK for neonate snakes of that size. Damn snake almost got a fang in me while I was holding his tiny head in one hand (two fingers) and trying to pull a very stuck shed off of such a tiny snake with my other hand. Not an easy situation and one that I don't like to repeat. It's very hard to delicately and adequately restrain such a tiny animal. The third time was a stupid mistake- didn't fully account for all of the snakes in the cage and used small hemos instead of the large forceps I always use to throw a pinky into a cage with a few small crotalids. My thumb was a half an inch into the cage and the snake hiding just under the lip and behind the water dish got me. Now I remove all animals from a cage when doing ANY manipulations, even if they are way in the back. I haven't had close calls EVER once a snake is in my hook or tongs or a tube. Not once has an animal like that even stuck at me to my memory, except atrox in the lab or field. They can be pissy. What about your close calls in the past 16 years?

Ok, I am taking a deep breat ---- exhaling.

Mike,
I didn't mean to make it personal, sorry if it was perceived that way.
I also do not think anyone else on this board made it personal.
However, I perceived that you "pontificated" on all venomous snake behavior by reading your posts. Again, I am sorry if you disagree.

Your experience in the field is impressive.
Again, don't get me wrong, it wasn't a personal jab at you, it was only me motivating you to explain your stance on the behavior of venomous snakes in captive situations.

Randal

I have actually found this entire thread to be fairly informative (and, yes, a bit confrontational but hey, its the venomous forum!). The amount of experience amongst many of us who work with venomous professionally is pretty impressive; and, we each have our own techniques that work for us and our own experiences to share. I do believe that there are certain absolutes in terms of working safely with hots and I take great pride in that I haven't been tagged by a venomous herp in the 20 years I have been working with them professionally. Does that mean it can't happen? I wish I could say that with 100% certainty (and so does my wife and kids but they understand that's one of the potential hazards of the job) but in my mind, I know that I won't get bitten because I follow a very strict protocol from one cage to the next. I visualize exactly what I need to do with each animal before even working with it (whether its as simple as spot cleaning or performing a risky procedure that requires the utmost in safety and handling skills); I am ready for every worse case scenario. Just because that same banded egyptian cobra has acted the same way (scarety cat!) every time I go into the exhibit doesn't mean that one day it is going to come at me like a bat out of hell....I assume it will! We have a Jameson't Mamba that was a severe animal abuse case that has never struck at me in the four years I have been working with her, BUT, I NEVER let my guard down with her and always handle her with LONG hooks, trap boxes, and even thick gauntlet gloves (just in case she does something so out of the ordinary that she slips all security measures). Randal brought up some great points about this and working in a zoo setting, just as I do in a similar setting, you cannot afford to have mistakes (in my case, I expect perfection with my staff....they know that they will never get a second chance to make a first mistake when it comes to hots). I'm rambling!

Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center
Lake Forest, IL

>>Mike,
>>I didn't mean to make it personal, sorry if it was perceived that way.
>>I also do not think anyone else on this board made it personal.
>>However, I perceived that you "pontificated" on all venomous snake behavior by reading your posts. Again, I am sorry if you disagree.
>>
>>Your experience in the field is impressive.
>>Again, don't get me wrong, it wasn't a personal jab at you, it was only me motivating you to explain your stance on the behavior of venomous snakes in captive situations.
>>
>>Randal
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Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL

Nope, not my first time on this board. Honestly I don't post because most of the folks that use forums on this domain aren't worth talking to in my opinion. I can see why some of you think what I said was a generalization, but am surprised that texasreptiles still thinks it was a generalization. I am pretty much done with this and don't need to talk about it any more.

Mike:

Were you at the Biology of Rattlesnakes Symposium?

Al
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"Snakes in Peru are not there for decoration, they really bite people."

Professor David Warrell, Omaha 10/21/05

Yeah we've met, Al. I just don't usually post on these forums.

Good to have you hang out & chat... It was the Dwarf Bitis comment that rang the bell. Here's on of my 05 Cornuta babies doing what she likes best..

Al

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"Snakes in Peru are not there for decoration, they really bite people."

Professor David Warrell, Omaha 10/21/05

Nice! It's really great when they start feeding readily on rodents. We have had the toughest time getting babies to convert, or even start feeding. I just think that they need a lot of TLC or a ready supply of little lizards at first. It's frustrating when you have a 25% or less survival rate, let me tell you. I think that this year there are two cornuta that are still alive, out of 9. We even had a cannibalism that ended in the death of two babies (one grabbed a baby Urosaurus and the other decided to eat both the snake and it's meal, subsequently dying from the extraordinarly large ingestion). The two that lived are doing well on fuzzies now so they should be out of the woods.

..

Al, I wasn't insinuating that I've either ever "smacked" a gaboon on the head or seen one smacked on the head. lol. I was just exagerrating a little bit to try and make the point. Apparently it didn't work, my bad. What I meant is that some snakes are very tolerant (of course this is not an ultimatum on behavior!) and others are definitely not.

It really is just a matter of individual comfortablility...there are PLENTY of responsible, very experienced keepers who regularly use tailing for large viperids and elapids. While it certainly carries a risk (what aspect of this hobby doesn't?), the risk can be minimized by using a hook (as opposed to free-tailing, which really equates to freehandling) and not getting in over your head. Bottom line: Trapboxes, cage dividers, tongs, whatever, they are all great, but there are times when hands on handling so to speak may be needed, and if you are incapable or unwilling to be able to do so with minimal risk to yourself, you shouldn't be keeping hots in the first place.

And by "you", I don't mean anyone in particular...just keepers in general.

.

Very interesting group of commentary. To say the least. I sat and read all of them and agreed and disagreed with basically everyone here.

(since everyone needs an experience disclaimer)

I base my statements on
1) 1200-1500 venomous interactions per week.
2)The way I learned. Hook and tail and nothing larger than a 30 inch VERY lightwieght snakehook.

Tailing a snake properly is as safe as any method including a trapbox at all interactions.
Now the word "properly" is used very literally. Any snake can be tailed safely if properly done. From baby Calloselasma and Echis to adult Daboia, Dendroaspis and Oxyuranus.
It really is a matter of what YOU can do safely with your level of experience. I recently had a 3 foot puff adder by the tail and hook do a magical flip backwards and almost hit me in the chest....the key word here is "almost". proper learning and experience prepares a person for those instances. This is a puff that is perfectly calm 3 times a week, just happened to catch him on a "bad scale day" and he flipped out.
If I didn't approach this interaction identically each and everytime, it would have been another news story. However, experience kept the situation and the snake under calm control.
I have a very safe attitude (0 bites) and a VERY strict and anal handling procedure. I am not however overly paranoid and finding myself using two statements over and over:

1) Venomous snakes are no more dangerous than any other hobby or profession (take an electrician for example)If done properly! I have never gone to work and wondered if "today was my day"

2) the best way to learn about snakebite is thru experience.....someone elses.

If you hook and tail...and do it 'properly' it is safe.

Use 2 hooks 'improperly' and you are a case history.
And visa versa for both.

The key here is education....plain and simple. These are not magical and mystical creatures capable of teleporting and envenoming with a simple thought.
The key here is to understand the 'normal' and expect the extraodinary!

Learning first, experiencing second is the safe approach to everything in life.

Unfortunately, most people seem to find their way, just the opposite....
Just my two cents worth a penny.

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It's what you learn AFTER you know it all that counts!

Terry Phillip
Curator of Reptiles
Black Hills Reptile Gardens
Rapid City, SD.

www.reptilegardens.com