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Well I am almost done with my bookcase style enclosure. It is 6'x4'x2' with four seperate enclosures 17" tall. It is built from 3 sheets of 1/2" birch plywood with a full frame of 1x2's. The 1/8" plexiglass doors are also framed in 1x2's. Heating will be provided by 2'sections of heat tape in every cage controlled by 1 Big apple proportional thermostat, running through seperate dimmers for each enclosure. The dimmers are needed to adjust the temps for my colubrids, who are sharing this cabinet with 2 boas. I planned on staining/urethaning the whole cage with water based products, but now am considering doing the floors and a few inches of the walls with the liquid fiberglass you can buy at Wal-Mart in the automotive section. No cloth just the liquid "painted" on. Anyone ever tried this? It's not the least bit toxic when cured and is very hard. Could I paint over the heat tape with this as well? Opinions?

I have used automotive fiberglass as "paint" in the past. I can't say I'm in a hurry to use it again as it's a pain to work with. It also ends up being pretty expensive unless purchased in bulk. I think there are a few epoxy resins that I would rather use instead of automotive fiberglass.

And no, don't paint over the heat tape with it.

What state are you in? There are a couple of products I can think of. What I recommend will depend on where you are located.

You can also consider a plastic floor of some sort and stain/polyurethane on the walls. Many plastics could be placed directly over heat tape.

I live in TN, 60 miles north of Memphis. Are there any epoxy type products that could be applied over the heat tape? How much does the expanded pvc cost that you use for floors?

>>Are there any epoxy type products that could be applied over the heat tape?

I'm sure there are but it's not something I would recommend. I would prefer something not so permanent.

>>How much does the expanded pvc cost that you use for floors?

You'll need to call around to local sign and plastic distributors and ask for expanded PVC. I would hope you could get 1mm thick for around $20 per sheet.

I can't think of any epoxy distributors out your way. If you really want to use a polyester resin (like fiberglass) I'd recommend a pourable casting polyester. Much easier to use and probably cheaper. But I would not be comfortable with pouring it over heat tape.

I would not use a polyester resin on any visible parts of the cage. It tends to yellow which will really look bad on a light wood like the birch you used.

For the walls I would only use one of the following, in no particular order:

1) An interior waterborne polyurethane, possibly even a two-part catalyzed product if water resistance is a huge concern.

2) An interior waterborne epoxy. There are a lot of these out there and I'm not sure which are suitable for fine woodwork.

3) A polymer based bar top epoxy.

Where were you going to place the heat tape? On the floor of each compartment? If so, I would reconsider.

For the boas, consider radiant heat panels. They mount on the ceiling, they don't direct heat up into the wood so as to waste the energy and they are safe. That is a much cleaner setup. Imagine scraping huge boa defecation off of heat tape.

Another option for the boas is a Kane heat mat if one will fit. Easy to clean, water-proof as long as the cord isn't submerged. Check out the Bean Farm for sizes.

For the colubrids, you may even consider low wattage lamps. Or Ultratherm heat pads which are sealed at least (www.beanfarm.com)

Chris's idea of expanded PVC over the heat tape is a good one.

One other thing. For the cage bottom, I reiterate what Chris said, waterbase polyurethane is not a good choice, especially for the boas. I know from experience. Gloss paint is better than that IMO. Or epoxy bar-top finish. For the walls in the colubrid cages, water-based poly is fine. For the boa cages I would go with more moisture-resistance.

You have a beautiful setup. Don't let it get ruined by using an inferior finish. Use something that can be washed.

i like the mitered face frames. why birch though? that's a very soft wood and it will show every sign of ware you can think of! it's a soft wood not a hardwood like oak, which IMO you should
have used. also, after the polyurathane applications( five sprays with wet sand between), you should use a marine grade epoxy resin. other will not be as safe nore will they last up as long. also, i would have done track doors and not hinged but overall it looks nice.

Also, i hope you used steal mesh cloth and not wire door screen for the vents! I'll email you a photo if you contact me.

Deven
Terra5Designs | The Vivarium Group

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How about sealing the wood and then lining it with 1/8" expanded pvc?

pvc type 2 which is what many pvc cages are made from has proven
to be caustic - not advised! polypropalene (sp) or cutting board
material is the best choice if you want to line the cage. Call
monster cages and have them make the insert for you and mention me, they'll work a good price. you can go with 1/16" even as this stuff is strong. besure though that if you seal your wood the right way, and do this insert idea, that you apply silicone or something to the wood area that will contact the insert. condensation between the layers will prove problematic. If you just want sheets we use this all the time and i'm sure we have some left overs.

deven