Reptile & Amphibian Forums

How would you explain the feeding response of an anaconda compared to a reticulated python, african or asian rock python?
I read on a post in this forum about feeding in a separate enclosure, But in the python forums people suggest feeding in the "home" enclosure. The snake hook method was also applied with feeding in the home enclosure. Has anyone tried this with an anaconda? I would like to hear from anyone who has tried these feeding methods or with any opinions.

Thank you in advance.

I have 34 constrictors including retics, burms, and a green anaconda. My green anaconda is one of Kelly Haller/Jud McClanahab's superb genetically docile ones. He does not have the blind feeding response like a retic or burm. He is the only one of my snakes that I just reach in free hand with no hook and pick him up. He is fed in the cage. When food enters the cage he pauses and views it before striking it. I have never had a bite, strike, bump, or hiss from him.

I firmly advocate feeding inside the cage. Better for the snake and safer for you. The only arguemnt for feeding outside is loose substrate injestion. I would rather have the snake think it is not going to eat when removed from the cage. And moving a large constrictor after eating is more than dangerous. Feed in the cage and hook train if needed. It works very well. All ofmy snakes are fed in the cage and they handle very easily. The time I got bit on a steady basis was years ago when I fed outside the cage. Bill
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...three years ago it was just another snake cult...
The Retic is King.
Anacondas-the other Dark Side.
Afrocks-the dark side of the Dark Side.

Hello,

As I have stated previously (and you might have read it) the response of a ball python changes if fed in the cage. let me go ahead and repeat that I only have 3.5 years experience with pythons and boids. I have experimented around and observed many behaviors. HOWEVER, none of my constrictors were over 5 feet in length YET. This indicates that there are far more experienced folks as Mr. Bill out there that have handled large constrictors. Feeding a huge snake outside the cage and carrying it back is indeed a dangerous monuver as Bill stated. Everyone has a different approach to this matter. I can't speak on the part that I haven't had experience yet on. I strongly believe that feeding a snake inside the cage is what causes feeding mistakes in the first place. Owners get tagged and bitten by 15 foot constrictors etc. In my opinion, this happening MIGHT be reduced if a snake knew that it's permenant ground is not a hunting ground. When my burms and anacondas reach 15 feet or so, my strategy is to still feed them outside the cage, Yet i am smart enough to never handle a snake over 8 feet alone. I will always have 2 people present at all handling processes. I am very strict on mine and the snakes safety. If you read that more people feed inside the cage, than make up your mind. Majority of people probably do. It is a hassle for them to remove a 15 foot snake from and into the cage. Everyone tries to stay safe on their side. As far as hooks go, it all depends on the species of snakes and what the owner prefers to use. some use hands, some gloves, some bags/torn clothe over the eyes, some just toss the snake out, branches etc.(you name it)

If you own one, try to think like one.
Ron

Ron, its great you put some good thought into your feeding stratedy but I think you are setting yourself up for some difficult problems in the future. I am also curiouse...have you raised any green anacondas from birth? Most are often so shy they will not be likely to feed after being moved in the first place.

A huge snake is not only difficult to move and dangerous to move around after feeding...it is extremely hard on them. Cleaning up after a few regurgitations from a big python or anaconda will likely change your mind on feeding technique.

As far as hooks, what people are refering to is "hook training" by setting a hook on the snake before moving it out of the cage in hopes it grows conditioned to know it is not getting food. A good friend of mine does this with his larger retics and it works quite well for him. I usualy will just move the snake (while keeping my hands from its head) a bit and wait a minute for it to prepare for being moved. I do this with my own snakes and have done it with snakes who have been approached under this method at a facility which keeps quite a few large constrictors for educational use. This has worked well.

Going in any enclosure without giving a snake a chance to realize what is going on is an easy way to get bit on not only feeding response reactions but deffense reactions from startling.

I will also say it is not really the number of years you have been working with snakes, rather what you have learned from it. There are people who have been keeping snakes for a long time and are not extremely knowledgable or rational on the subject. Keep your mind open and read up on as many practices and findings as you can.

I will also note I have been bitten by snakes outside the cage which are fed inside the cage. I can think of quite a few bites which were certainly feeding response bites. Pay attention to what your hands are doing and what it might look like they are doing to a snake. Ball pythons seem to be the worst with this lol.

To answer your question Eunectus: No I have not raised anacondas from birth and I have learned what it is all about after I had to force feed one of my greens (4 months old). Aside that, I do wanna to say that; " It is what it is". I mean everyone has their own approach to herpetology and their own schedule and techniques. Some are better than others and only come with experience and learned education. This forum is great for discussions and it is BEST for the fact that many individuals can learn from each other. Yes, I have no hands on with my own large (10 ft ) constrictors, but I have handled a few. Never owned one yet. I am still waiting for all my 4 footers to get that big. One can get attacked by the snake wether you feed it inside or outside the cage, it is unavoidable. It just happens and will continue to happen. I personally, have been bitten no more than 5 times in all my years. Attacked many times, actual landed bites are minimum. My way of miminizing the bites are simple. Simply let the snake have its way, DONT STARTLE IT. The snake is not interested in you, dont play with it like a 6 year old kid. What i have just said is based on Captive born specimens only, handling a wild caught is another story.
Getting back to large boids, Eunectus you have a point when you mentioned hassle and regurgitation. My red tailed boa gave me a good demonstration a few times of what regurgitation smells like when I tried to move it back into the cage. As the snake was only 3 feet long, I developed a method for it. Once it has eaten, I would leave it alone for about 30 minutes after its meal. Than i would come up, cover the feeding box with a towel so the snake could not see me, open the top lid, and slowly turn the box to its side so the snake made its own exit. Once it slithered outisde of the box, I would introduce a hook infront of it and the snake just coiled itself around the hook. I would move it that way to its enclosure and it would uncoil and move into its hiding area. I never had regurgitations with that method. Once again it a small snake. I will not be able to perform that trick on a 15 foot constrictor Eunectus. Therefore, I cannot argue on any of the ideas given by you or Bill, or any other members in this forum. Only time will tell wether my feeding strategies change and become less of a hassle for me. To be honest, I do believe that your way is the correct way. As my constrictors grow to enormous sizes I will experiment with it and let you know how it goes for me

Ron

I have read your past post and I have owned reptiles for only 3 years. I have owned balls, kingsnakes, corns, retics, burms, boas (3 of the 5 subspecies), BRB, JCP, nile monitors and iguanas. And I never breed any of the animals I kept. I'm a novice and would never try to put down another reptile hobbyist,unless their actions endanger the hobby I love so much.
I was asking a question about feeding responses between animals and compare methods. Nobody is trying to beat you up. I'm just doing research since I plan on owning an anaconda in the next 6 - 12 months or so. I'm currently pet sitting my friends yellow anaconda (hypo)and is great.

Hello,

Don't worry, I am not offended by anyones comments, I am only informed. The comments people leave are so far informational, no one is putting me down for my techinques so far I always like to hear other technoques and more appropriate ways especially as my future will hold 6 enormous constrictors. I have owned Lizards: tegus, monitors, iguanas, sand lizards, anoles, bearded dragons and took careful care of many other mammals and reptiles as I have worked for petshops as well. A good herpotologist is one who doesnt own quantity, but its rather quality and proper knowledge to keep your herps alive and well. To provide your collection with habitat and necessities that are vital for their survival. If one cant take care of their herps, they should not own them. Anyhow, thats my point of view. Thanks for taking time to reply directly to me. I am currently at work, yet I will get back to you on your yellow anaconda topic and hopefully others will chip in as well

Ron

So is it safe to say that anacondas, reticsand rock pythons have a similar feeding response? I also heard condas"average" size is usually smaller than retics and burms. Is this true.

just going by my snakes alone I will tell you my all yellow anacondas have by FAR the strongest feeding response. My green female has the worst (weakest). Burms I have worked with range (never owned any) and my african rock is similar to a burmese python. The retics usually are about the same across the board with some extremely strong feeders. I have worked with many which will fly out of hides with mouth open. All the anacondas I have worked with and keep will usually locate before striking. My female green will analyze food for a long time before deciding if she wants to eat it...its gentle. The yellows will look and hit hard...give it to them quick or they will come for it.

Moving a boid to a separate feeding unit is going to cause problems down the road and should never be started. If done properly, the method of tapping the snakes very gently on the head a few times right after opening the cage to shut down their feeding response works very well. They quickly learn that when this is done, there will not be any food offered this time. I use a cardboard tube about 3 feet long and have used this method for over 25 years and never had a problem. It works best if you tap the head gently and not just somewhere on the body.

Kelly

25 years! WOW! do you have a web page/site with any more info that could help me. Food, housing etc.

Feeding response of yellow anacondas is usually strong and voracious as my yellow immediately senses and goes for the kill. I would compare it to a burmese, yet my male burm out eats every other boid that I own. here are some sites for you to check out (housing, feeding etc) I believe some of the most accurate information is here:

http://www.newenglandreptile.com/CareGConda.html

http://www.newenglandreptile.com/CareYConda.html

Enjoy

Ron is correct in that NERD has one of the better care sheet pages available for green anacondas. While I have several minor disagreements with some of the information in this care sheet, the NERD page overall is pretty good. I have more detailed information on captive care of green anacondas in the article Jud and I had published in the January 2004 issue of Reptiles Magazine.

Kelly