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Latest additions to my BP cage

wftright Dec 02, 2005 11:47 PM

The last time that I posted a picture of my ball python cage, several people commented that I should put a background on the back side. I have a 55 gallon long aquarium, and I had the back side open. The comment was that my snake would feel more secure if the back were black rather than the light color of my computer room wall.

I was in the local pet store and found background material by the foot. They had a nice, dark, mostly gray, rock pattern background that I decided looks pretty good. Maybe a flat black would be better for my snake, and maybe I'll switch to black anyway. For now, I've put the rock pattern background back there.

I had a heat pad on the warm side side wall, but it didn't seem all that effective. To add to its effectiveness, I put some expanded polyethylene insulating material against the side wall so that the pad is sandwiched against the wall. I'll get better contact with the wall this way, and the insulation will force more heat against the tank wall and not let it escape into the room. The door is on that side of the room as well, and I think drafts from the door tend to cool the cage as well. To give the cage even more insulation, I put the polyethylene on the outside of the background as well. Not only will the cage look better, but there will be more insulation keeping the cage warm. The temperature of the glass will be less influenced by the room temperature.

Bill

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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.

Replies (11)

Misskiwi67 Dec 03, 2005 12:02 AM

Has the styrofoam addition made any significant changes to your ambient temps???

Background looks really nice!!! I'd stick with the rock wall, plain black is boring...

wftright Dec 03, 2005 06:57 AM

I've only had the insulation back there for eight hours now, so I can't be sure what it's doing. What I do know is that I just discovered a large and disturbing gradient. The front wall on the hot side is showing only 81 degrees but the back wall is about 92 degrees. If this difference that I'm measuring now is representative, my temperatures have been too high for a while. Of course, the difference could reflect the effect of the insulation already stopping heat loss from the back wall. Getting my temperatures right is going to be a continuing challenge.

Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.

Misskiwi67 Dec 03, 2005 12:46 PM

Yeah, thats the problem with big tanks... hard to keep the heat in, and keep it where you want it. The temps on the back wall and glass don't matter as much as the places where your snake sits, so you should be fine until you get things tweaked. Beautiful tank, I hope you get it figured out!

Have you considered getting a temp gun? Seriously, they're the sweetest things ever invented, and for 25 bucks, you'll wonder why you ever bought anything else. You'll instantly know the temperature at every point within your snakes environment, and I love to take my snakes temp too. I have the pro exotics PE-1, and I LOVE IT!!!!

wftright Dec 03, 2005 02:15 PM

You're right, and I'm quickly learning the joys and sorrows of big tanks. One of the things that I had hoped to get with a big tank was enough space so that I could make mistakes but still leave some part of the tank at the right temperature. A big tank is also an advantage because I keep seeing things that I want to add and need floor space to put them.

Another problem I'm having is widely varying temperature outside. Yesterday, the temperature dropped to what felt like the 40's outside. Today, I'm guessing that it's in the high 70's or low 80's. Last night, most of my house was in the high 60's, and my snake room was in the low 70's. Today, my snake room is about 77.

One of the things that I'd like to find a way to do is add another level. She's actually a pretty good climber. Last night, she shimmied up the cord for my thermostat probe. She eventually fell off, but she had no problem moving vertically. If I could find the right platform and the right way to support it, I could give her another small level. The area under the level might retain humidity. That area would also seem more sheltered, so she might view it as a semi-hidden area.

My dream is that thermal imaging cameras will someday drop in price enough for hobby herpetologists to own them. I've talked to a few of the manufacturers because they try to sell them at the plant, and I need to mention this possible market. If I had one of those cameras, I could take one picture that would show the temperature of every surface in the cage in very good detail.

In the meantime, I'm going to get either a PE-1 or a PE-2 as soon as I get through the Christmas travel season. I like the features of the PE-2, and the price difference isn't that much. Maybe I'll back off to the PE-1, but I'll make that decision when I'm ready to order. Either way, my recent experiences have sold me on the merits of a temperature gun.

When I came home from sparrow wrangling this afternoon (trying to help an LSU professor and grad students study Henslow's sparrows), the temperature on the floor in the middle of the hot side of the cage was 96.5 degrees. I misted everything to get it down to about 90, but it's climbing again. I'll be fiddling with this problem all afternoon.

I bought a ZooMed ReptiTemp 500R about a week ago. I have it on a 5.5 inch clamp lamp with a 60 watt blacklight bulb. I'm going to put the side heater on the thermostat as well. After the Christmas rush, I'll probably get a proportional heater for the UTH. The UTH cost $50, and I've heard that the on/off style thermostats are a little rough on them. I'd rather get a good thermostat, get better control, and save my belly heater. I feel more protective of the UTH now that I can see that it is capable of giving me enough heat.

In any case, I think she likes the background. She's lying across the top of the red fake plant for the first time since I added it to the cage. Obviously, I can't be sure within a day, but so far she seems to be spending more time along the back wall.

My main concern now is that I can't find any evidence that she's defecated in a while. I found a couple of chunks of the white stuff a week or so ago, but I can't find a bowel movement. I've soaked her for half an hour on each of the past two nights. I may soak her again tonight. After her soakings, I've held her, and she's been a little more active than she's been in the past.

Again, many thanks for all of the help and advice.

Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.

Misskiwi67 Dec 03, 2005 03:20 PM

Don't worry if you don't see any messes in the cage. They'll hold it for weeks without any problems.

toshamc Dec 03, 2005 11:37 AM

I've been using that rock background in my big tank for some time - it works great for helping to hold in the heat- you will most likely find that you'll need to do a little adjusting of the temperature to get it back to where it should be.

Looks good!
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Tosha

"Nihil facimus sed id bene facimus"

7.33.0 Ball Python (Harry and Fluffy and gang)
1.0.0 Angolan Python (Anakin Skywalker)
0.0.1 Green Tree Python (Verdi - yeah I know but my kids love the book)
0.2.0 Feline (Pippen and Pandora)
0.0.1 Desert Tortoise (Pope John Paul aka JP )
2.2.1 Fish (1,2,3,4)
0.0.2 frogs rescued from pool skimmer

wftright Dec 03, 2005 02:29 PM

I'm glad to hear that the rock background has worked well for others. I like the looks, and my snake has spent more time outside her hide today than she normally does. Right now, she's trying to climb the rocks and keeps slipping on the glass.

You're exactly right about the background holding more heat, and I'm probably seeing a bigger effect because I put it over a quarter-inch of expanded polyethylene insulation before I put it on the cage. What you see from this side is the background. From the side of the aquarium, I see pink, polyethylene insulation. Most of the rest of this thread is about my tribulations with the temperature over the past 14 hours.

As I said in another post, I have a 5.5 inch clamp lamp with a 60 watt bulb on a ZooMed ReptiTemp 500R thermostat. I just put the heater that's taped to the side of the tank on the thermostat as well. Right now, the only heat going to the aquarium is from the UTH under the floor. Eventually, I'm going to get a good proportional thermostat to control my UTH. I'll also be getting a temperature gun soon.

Thanks,

Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.

coldthumb Dec 03, 2005 03:36 PM

"Right now, the only heat going to the aquarium is from the UTH under the floor. Eventually, I'm going to get a good proportional thermostat to control my UTH. I'll also be getting a temperature gun soon."

Those uth's can get very hot without any form of control on them...118F! and up.That is without anything on top of it too.
That's what ours tested at anyways.(We were just curious to see what it would get to.)

You are probably safer to run a 40watt blackbulb 24/7...until you get a T-stat for the UTH....A 60watt on a ten gallon proved to be to much for my 75F room(Maybe if the room were closer to 60F,it may have been better?).

good luck with it
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Charles Glaspie

Tanstaafl:
"There ain't no such thing as a free lunch".
An acronym created by my favorite author Robert A. Heinlein.

coldthumb Dec 03, 2005 03:39 PM

doh!...i just remembered...you said 55/gal...So the wattage versus the room temp may be more correct,i dunno...but heat pads and tape can get very hot without controlled power.Scary stuff...
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Charles Glaspie

Tanstaafl:
"There ain't no such thing as a free lunch".
An acronym created by my favorite author Robert A. Heinlein.

wftright Dec 03, 2005 03:46 PM

Thanks for the warning. I'm certainly checking temperatures more carefully now. The strange thing is that for much of the time I've had the cage, the UTH didn't seem capable of keeping the temperature over about 82 degrees. Obviously, I wasn't measuring properly. If needed, I'll add a little substrate to act as insulation. A nice thing is that I have about 18" of cage with no UTH underneath, so she can get to an area that's pretty cool.

Thanks,

Bill
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It's not how many snakes you have. It's how happy and healthy you can keep them.

coldthumb Dec 03, 2005 04:28 PM

Glass is a poor heat conductor.(Alot of us have already given away our tanks,and bought racks,partially for this reason.)

For now...i would keep the room above 75 with that heatlamp on and the pad unplugged.

What happens is...it get really hot in one small spot on the glass...and the rest of the glass on the tank is continuously cooling it by convection.(Some people have even reported theirs cracking from the heat).Even if the tank can take it,the problem is...snake gets cold/snake finds heat/snake doesn't realize it is to hot and get burn't.

Since it is glass.It will take a heat lamp and uth setup combined to keep ambiant temperature around 78F to 81F,and hotspot(uth)to 91-93F.Once you get that t-stat on the uth,and a tempgun to check the ambiants...it will be easy to pick the proper wattage for the needed heatlamps(or CHE).


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Charles Glaspie

Tanstaafl:
"There ain't no such thing as a free lunch".
An acronym created by my favorite author Robert A. Heinlein.

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