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Healty Timor monitor inactivity

mriswith Dec 03, 2005 03:42 PM

recently my very active and rarly shy Timor monitor decided to hide in her rock all the time and sleep a great deal more is this normal???? she just had a vet check by the vet from our local zoo. (which also has this species) she is in good health but I recently put her in a new enclosure ( 2 weeks ago). she is still eating and eliminateing but I almost have to put the food directly in front of her main hid to get her to take it.
The temps range from a basking spot in the 130's down to 79 on the cool end where the water is. I don't know if I am being overly sensitve or what but any input would be helpful to me.
Sorry about the long post

Shawn Kelley

Replies (3)

FR Dec 04, 2005 10:39 AM

Hello. if your monitor is healthy, which is always the first question, then you can look elsewhere for reasons for this inactivity. You say it it, good.

This time of year, your question is common all over reptile boards. It happens with snakes and lizards, it happens to snakes and lizards that are suppose to hibernate(poor term) and species like yours that are not suppose to hibernate. To its really not about hibernation is it?

This time of year, temps outside are dropping and this effects the mass temps, that is, the floor, the walls, the shelves, all these objects are not radiating cool temps, instead of warm temps. The cage, the substrate, the logs, etcs, are all cooler then they were in the summer, even if the air temps are the same. You must understand, or try to understand, reptiles do not use air temps as a guide to activity, they use mass or substrate temps to gauge their activity. In nature, the sun heats up the mass. Not the air temps. The mass or ground or rock or tree truck is a heat sink for temps, absorbed from the sun, not absorbed from the air.

What this means is, while your air temps are the same as it was, the mass temps do not have to be, they can now be lots cooler or a little cooler, depending on what part of the country you live it.

Then you can consider, a little lowering and related inactivity is not a problem for short periods, and decide to not worry or change it. Or you can compensate and increase the usable temps.

I cannot tell you how to do this as many folks approach this in different ways. Some use high heat bulbs and have them a long distance away from the lizards, this heats the air, but not really the lizard or mass. I choose to different approach, I use small bulbs that the lizards can get very close to, even touch. This works great for me.

I recomend getting an infrared heat gun, as advertised above, and use it, they measure mass temps and not air temps, so now you are on the same page as your captive.

It could also be lack of humidity, in winter and use of heaters in houses, this causes humidity to drop. Give that a check if all the temps are close.

Heres a pic of a heat gun in use,

Heres a pic of a small lite, heat source, with the monitors getting very close. As evidence of success, these baby ackies have grown from 7 inches at hatching, to 11 inches in 7 weeks. I guess it could be better, but its still solid growth. I think the growth is now about me feeding them, then about temps.

Good luck FR

mriswith Dec 04, 2005 12:27 PM

After reading your post I checked the mass temp as you recomended and sure enough they were down almost 10 degrees on the cool areas from what the air temps are so I added and under tank heater to that area. if you can think of anything else I could do to insulate her enclosure it would be helpfull it is 84" tall by 72" wide by 48 inches deep. She has about 2 feet of dirt and leaf litter type stuff on one side and a 48x24" water area that is 18 inches deep. It is in my computer room as that is normally the warmest room in my house in the winter ( i live in indiana). If you can think of anything to help reduce or eliminate this kinda of temp change in her enclosure I would love to hear any thoughts.

FR Dec 04, 2005 03:23 PM

Yes of course, heat the room to a constant temp, say 72F to 75F or so, use one of those electric heaters that heat oil, and not the air. They look like the old hot water heaters. These heaters do not dry out the air and last forever as the electric elements are not exposed to air. They also are not prone to starting fires if tipped over, as again the heat elements are enclosed.

To me the most important temps are the base temps and not the hot or extreme temps. If you have control of base temps, room temps, then cage temps are very easy to control. Good luck FR

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