Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click here for Dragon Serpents
https://www.crepnw.com/
Click here for Dragon Serpents

this is a reminder..*warning, graphic image

HerpGirl Dec 06, 2005 07:58 AM

i dont know if any of you have seen this picture before but its a good reminder why not to leave live rodents in with your snakes.

http://www.proexotics.com/graphics/ball_python_live_prey_1.jpg
-----
"it is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"
1.0.0 bearded dragon
1.1.0 green iguana
0.0.1 columbian tegu(for sale)
1.1.0 knight anole
0.1.0 green anole
0.1.0 asian longtail grass lizard
1.1.0 golden gecko
1.0.0 ball python
0.0.5 oriental firebellied toad
0.0.1 green treefrog
0.0.1 barking treefrog
0.0.1 cuban masked treefrog
0.0.1 gray treefrog
0.1.0 gulf hammock rat snake
0.1.0 eastern kingsnake
0.1.0 siberian husky
1.1.0 ratties
0.1.0 hedgie

Replies (28)

kiknskreem Dec 06, 2005 08:22 AM

WHOA! Whats the story behind that picture? Did the snake die?
-----
0.0.1 Snow Corn
0.0.1 Oketee
1.0 Ghosts
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.0 Albino Burmese Python

goregrind Dec 08, 2005 02:54 PM

the owner left the snake alone with the mouse, and yes the snake had to be put down
-----
jake

my addiction:
2 normal ball pythons (lazlo and izzy)
1 amelenistic corn snake (mazy)
0.1 blizzard corn (blizz)

Hotshot Dec 06, 2005 10:16 AM

for awhile. It is good to repost it though for all the newbies and people who still feed live rodents. Be reminded that this snake was probably left with its prey item for an extended period of time. A rodent will not do this extensive damage in a short period. But, feeding live juvenile/adult rodents to ANY snake is a very risky procedure and should not be done. Especially when F/T rodents are so readily available. The only exception is if a snake WILL NOT accept anything but live, and there is still a risk of the snake receiving a nasty bite. I dont care what anyone says, you can stand right there and watch a snake kill its prey, and it happens lightning quick. A rodent defending its life will bite if given the chance, and this too happens lightning quick.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Brian

-----


RATS
1.0 Corn snake "Warpath"(KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake "Havok" (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes "Reaper and Mystique" (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake "Malakai" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake "Deadpool" (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Greenish rat snake "Rogue" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Great plains rat snake "Reign Fire" (TX locale)
1.0 Grey rat snake "Punisher" (White oak phase)(Dwight Good stock)

RACERS
1.0 Eastern Yellow Belly racer "Nightcrawler" (MO locale)

KINGS
1.1 California king snake "Bandit" & "Moonstar" (Coastal phase)
1.1 Prairie king snakes "Bishop" & "Askani" (KY locale)
0.1 Black king snake "Domino" (KY locale)
1.1 Desert Kingsnakes "Gambit" & "Psylocke"
0.1 Florida Kingsnake "Shard"
0.1 Speckled Kingsnake "Haven"

MILKS
1.0 Eastern/red Milk intergrade "Cable" (KY locale)
1.0 Eastern/Red Milk intergrade "Omega Red" (KY locale)

BULLS/GOPHERS/PINES
0.1 Sonoran Gopher "Husk"
1.0 Kankakee bull (Phil Peak stock)

Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian

HerpGirl Dec 07, 2005 07:06 AM

im not really sure on the story behind it. its NOT my snake, ill say that now. but i would definitely imagine that it died or if it didnt i would hope that they had the decency to have it put down.
-----
"it is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"
1.0.0 bearded dragon
1.1.0 green iguana
0.0.1 columbian tegu(for sale)
1.1.0 knight anole
0.1.0 green anole
0.1.0 asian longtail grass lizard
1.1.0 golden gecko
1.0.0 ball python
0.0.5 oriental firebellied toad
0.0.1 green treefrog
0.0.1 barking treefrog
0.0.1 cuban masked treefrog
0.0.1 gray treefrog
0.1.0 gulf hammock rat snake
0.1.0 eastern kingsnake
0.1.0 siberian husky
1.1.0 ratties
0.1.0 hedgie

UberKID Dec 07, 2005 08:05 PM

I feed the mice that i get at pet stores. My snakes just roll right over killed prey and im not about to waste money and not have them eat it. People should lighten up because live isnt that bad. People should be more worried about other things like bad care. Ive never heard anyone not feed live to their snakes. Ive only been on these boards for a week so i dont know. If my snake doesnt eat the mouse or rat i just put it in a container with some food i get around the house untill the next day. Why waste money? and some snakes dont even taken killed meals.

goini04 Dec 07, 2005 10:03 PM

Feeding prekilled is safer for the snake, and is more humane for the prey. Dont' even bother with the argument about them being wild animals and junk because it's not worth arguing about. Any snake will eat prekilled, you just have to make them. They are made to survive. When they get hungry, they will eat. I have seen ALOT of snakes being injured due to leaving live rodents in with them. Rats will try to fight back in order to save their lives which can cause bites on the snake. Sometimes the snake may not eat the rat for a while and the snake would get practically eaten by the rat. There is really no excuse ultimately to feed live. I think we have all been guilty of it at one point in time or another. It is certainly not recommended.

Chris

>>I feed the mice that i get at pet stores. My snakes just roll right over killed prey and im not about to waste money and not have them eat it. People should lighten up because live isnt that bad. People should be more worried about other things like bad care. Ive never heard anyone not feed live to their snakes. Ive only been on these boards for a week so i dont know. If my snake doesnt eat the mouse or rat i just put it in a container with some food i get around the house untill the next day. Why waste money? and some snakes dont even taken killed meals.
-----
U.A.P.P.E.A.L.
Uniting A Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League

Steve_Craig Dec 07, 2005 10:27 PM

"I feed the mice that i get at pet stores. My snakes just roll right over killed prey and im not about to waste money and not have them eat it."

What kind of snakes do you have that wont' eat frozen thawed or pre-killed rodents? I have 13 snakes and everyone of them takes F/T like there's no tomorrow. There are some that won't take F/T or pre-killed, but most of the time it's no problem getting them to switch over to F/T, or at the very least, pre-killed.

"People should lighten up because live isnt that bad. People should be more worried about other things like bad care."

I'm not the one that has to lighten up. My snakes have zero risk of their food fighting back. Yea, feeding live's not bad at all, until one of your snakes get their eye ripped out the split second a rodent finds an opening or weakness.

"Ive never heard anyone not feed live to their snakes. Ive only been on these boards for a week so i dont know."

I'll have to agree with you on the last three words of your above sentence.

"If my snake doesnt eat the mouse or rat i just put it in a container with some food i get around the house untill the next day. Why waste money? and some snakes dont even taken killed meals."

If your snake/snakes are one of the very few that will not take F/T or pre-killed no matter what you've tried, then I guess you have a point. But it is still a serious risk. I'm sure you've tried everything to get them on F/T or pre-killed. Correct?

Steve

Thunder_Dan Dec 07, 2005 11:23 PM

I don't know about the pet stores in your area, but at the ones near me, F/T mice are far cheaper than the live ones and don't have to be fed. So how is that "saving money"?

I'm not piling on or wanting to argue, but the "saving money" statement simply doesn't make sense.

nevermore Dec 07, 2005 11:29 PM

Agreed with the above response. Even if we don't touch any of the other arguments, it's cheaper with frozen. You can buy more than you need at one feeding (saving trips to the store and gass which adds up). You can also, buy in bulk, online, for even cheaper still. Even with shipping, if you order enough you're saving money per mouse...plus you get it delivered right to you.

As a kid I fed live prey. I had a wild caught, adult fox snake - very good at taking down the animals quickly. But, it must have gotten old or just complacent because it took that one time where it wrapped around the poor mouses rump and squeezed the poor thing for several minutes, but was not sufficating it. The mouse eventually fought back and started biting down on the coils. I got in there quick enough and blocked it's teeth wiht a cage branch (it grinded on that instead...hearing it, I could only imagine what it would have done to snake flesh). Eventually, I had to snap the poor rodents neck with the branch (with my snake still wrapped around it. The Fox Snake was mostly ok...but I never fed live after that.

Hotshot Dec 08, 2005 06:40 AM

That is your right, to feed live prey if you so desire. And I dont want to see you on here in the future complaining one of your snakes got bit!! Because we see it on here atleast once a month!!! Always the same, "Help my snake got bit!!!" even though we always tell people to feed F/T!!!

And dont say your snakes will not eat F/T, because the majority of snakes will. It appears to me you are just too lazy to work with your animals to get them to take F/T. The majority of snake owners feed either F/T or freshly killed. I have too much money and time invested in my animals to risk getting one of them injured, maimed or killed due to poor husbandry.

I have one snake that the previous owner swore up and down that it would only take live. After a couple of weeks working with this snake, and not once offering live, it started feeding on F/T. Some snakes switch right over no problem, others need a little work, but 95% of snakes will take F/T with some or no work.
Brian
-----


RATS
1.0 Corn snake "Warpath"(KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake "Havok" (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes "Reaper and Mystique" (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake "Malakai" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake "Deadpool" (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Greenish rat snake "Rogue" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Great plains rat snake "Reign Fire" (TX locale)
1.0 Grey rat snake "Punisher" (White oak phase)(Dwight Good stock)

RACERS
1.0 Eastern Yellow Belly racer "Nightcrawler" (MO locale)

KINGS
1.1 California king snake "Bandit" & "Moonstar" (Coastal phase)
1.1 Prairie king snakes "Bishop" & "Askani" (KY locale)
0.1 Black king snake "Domino" (KY locale)
1.1 Desert Kingsnakes "Gambit" & "Psylocke"
0.1 Florida Kingsnake "Shard"
0.1 Speckled Kingsnake "Haven"

MILKS
1.0 Eastern/red Milk intergrade "Cable" (KY locale)
1.0 Eastern/Red Milk intergrade "Omega Red" (KY locale)

BULLS/GOPHERS/PINES
0.1 Sonoran Gopher "Husk"
1.0 Kankakee bull (Phil Peak stock)

Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian

rick gordon Dec 08, 2005 01:18 PM

I don't feed live, but I buy live, I want to know that the mouse was healthy and didn't die of some parasite or infection, or worse yet get contaminated in someway. You can't trust raw meat meant for human consumption, how can you trust meat that doesn't have government regulation watching over it? As far as being humane is concerned, that's a matter of opinion. Unless your suppler is gassing them, then they are probably being rapped on the head or frozen alive, which is the same as killing them yourself. I usually rap them on the head hard enough to disable them so they are still kicking for the snake. Sometimes they spray blood from their nose which tends to make them more appetizing as well. Personally, if you go by a strict definition of the word, Humane, means to treat as you would a human which if you have notice when we kill people or treat the terminally ill it usually isn't nice. If your definition of humane is simply that it should be painless or not prolonged, I disagree, Rarely in nature does death come without pain and discomfort and rarely when life is taken forcibly, so why should it be any different? Personally when I die, I like it to be painful and prolonged so I have time to come to terms with the fact that I am dieing and perhaps even be willing to welcome it. I can't think of anything more cruel then dieing and not knowing it.

chrish Dec 08, 2005 01:48 PM

Personally when I die, I like it to be painful and prolonged so I have time to come to terms with the fact that I am dieing and perhaps even be willing to welcome it.

You sound like someone who has never watched someone else go through a prolonged and painful death. Invariably, those people wish it would just end, as much as they fear death. I have never heard anyone say I want the suffering to continue!

As for coming to terms with the fact that you are dying, why?

I can't think of anything more cruel then dieing and not knowing it.

If you get hit by an unseen bus tomorrow and die immediately, you haven't missed anything by not suffering.

People in their upper 90s and 100s, lying in nursing homes after spending years wishing it would just hurry up and end, cling to life with every breath and are usually afraid when they now it is coming soon. They know they are dying, and they don't seem to relish the thought.

I suspect you will feel the same way when the time comes.

-----
Chris Harrison
San Antonio, Texas

rick gordon Dec 08, 2005 03:04 PM

I disagree, how many ghost are wandering earth after getting hit by buses not knowing they are dead. I expect that the perfect death, if such a thing exist, is where one suffers enough to give up on being alive and then dies. I wouldn't want to suffer beyond that point, but I also wouldn't want to go before I reached it. Course the whole point is mute if you don't believe in something beyond life, in which case we are all better off dieing in our sleep tonight and getting it overwith. This seems a bit off subject, but not really, the only argument for buying prekilled is on the humane death of the mouse, since as I have argued killing at the moment of feeding is certainly preferable for the snake. So the choice comes down to what you feel is an apropriate way for the mouse to die.

Hotshot Dec 08, 2005 02:34 PM

on accident, as there is nothing relevent in it to what this discussion is about. Which is the dangers of feeding live vs. F/T or prekilled. Or did you just have a Geritol moment and get out there on the yellow brick road??? LOL
Brian

>>I don't feed live, but I buy live, I want to know that the mouse was healthy and didn't die of some parasite or infection, or worse yet get contaminated in someway. You can't trust raw meat meant for human consumption, how can you trust meat that doesn't have government regulation watching over it? As far as being humane is concerned, that's a matter of opinion. Unless your suppler is gassing them, then they are probably being rapped on the head or frozen alive, which is the same as killing them yourself. I usually rap them on the head hard enough to disable them so they are still kicking for the snake. Sometimes they spray blood from their nose which tends to make them more appetizing as well. Personally, if you go by a strict definition of the word, Humane, means to treat as you would a human which if you have notice when we kill people or treat the terminally ill it usually isn't nice. If your definition of humane is simply that it should be painless or not prolonged, I disagree, Rarely in nature does death come without pain and discomfort and rarely when life is taken forcibly, so why should it be any different? Personally when I die, I like it to be painful and prolonged so I have time to come to terms with the fact that I am dieing and perhaps even be willing to welcome it. I can't think of anything more cruel then dieing and not knowing it.
-----


RATS
1.0 Corn snake "Warpath"(KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake "Havok" (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes "Reaper and Mystique" (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake "Malakai" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake "Deadpool" (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Greenish rat snake "Rogue" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Great plains rat snake "Reign Fire" (TX locale)
1.0 Grey rat snake "Punisher" (White oak phase)(Dwight Good stock)

RACERS
1.0 Eastern Yellow Belly racer "Nightcrawler" (MO locale)

KINGS
1.1 California king snake "Bandit" & "Moonstar" (Coastal phase)
1.1 Prairie king snakes "Bishop" & "Askani" (KY locale)
0.1 Black king snake "Domino" (KY locale)
1.1 Desert Kingsnakes "Gambit" & "Psylocke"
0.1 Florida Kingsnake "Shard"
0.1 Speckled Kingsnake "Haven"

MILKS
1.0 Eastern/red Milk intergrade "Cable" (KY locale)
1.0 Eastern/Red Milk intergrade "Omega Red" (KY locale)

BULLS/GOPHERS/PINES
0.1 Sonoran Gopher "Husk"
1.0 Kankakee bull (Phil Peak stock)

Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian

rick gordon Dec 08, 2005 02:51 PM

My argument is "buying" prekilled is not better, and that you can still have movement for snakes that prefer live food by killing at the moment of feeding. Crush their brains and they will kick for five minutes or so plenty of time for the snake to gain interest in them, also the spewing blood helps as mentioned.

Hotshot Dec 08, 2005 09:39 PM

>>My argument is "buying" prekilled is not better, and that you can still have movement for snakes that prefer live food by killing at the moment of feeding. Crush their brains and they will kick for five minutes or so plenty of time for the snake to gain interest in them, also the spewing blood helps as mentioned.
-----


RATS
1.0 Corn snake "Warpath"(KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake "Havok" (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes "Reaper and Mystique" (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake "Malakai" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake "Deadpool" (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Greenish rat snake "Rogue" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Great plains rat snake "Reign Fire" (TX locale)
1.0 Grey rat snake "Punisher" (White oak phase)(Dwight Good stock)

RACERS
1.0 Eastern Yellow Belly racer "Nightcrawler" (MO locale)

KINGS
1.1 California king snake "Bandit" & "Moonstar" (Coastal phase)
1.1 Prairie king snakes "Bishop" & "Askani" (KY locale)
0.1 Black king snake "Domino" (KY locale)
1.1 Desert Kingsnakes "Gambit" & "Psylocke"
0.1 Florida Kingsnake "Shard"
0.1 Speckled Kingsnake "Haven"

MILKS
1.0 Eastern/red Milk intergrade "Cable" (KY locale)
1.0 Eastern/Red Milk intergrade "Omega Red" (KY locale)

BULLS/GOPHERS/PINES
0.1 Sonoran Gopher "Husk"
1.0 Kankakee bull (Phil Peak stock)

Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian

chrish Dec 08, 2005 02:08 PM

I have to agree with the others. I have kept and bred hundreds of snakes over the years and I feed nothing but F/T or prekilled. I will occasionally offer a live pinkie to a hatchling/neonate that refuses F/T - otherwise all my snake food comes out of the freezer.

I used to feed live to finicky snakes but I watched rodents bite my snakes on several occasions. You say it hasn't happened to your snakes. The truth is it hasn't happened to your snakes yet.

As for snakes refusing prekilled food...that is almost never true. I have had a few snakes that I have to wiggle to the food, but they readily took it once it moved.

Furthermore, F/T is cheaper and easier to store. I don't have to run to the pet store after work if I want to feed snakes. I simply go out to the rodent freezer and pull out what I need. I may throw away a rodent or two that don't get eaten, but considering I paid less than half a petstore's prices, I come out on top.

-----
Chris Harrison
San Antonio, Texas

LarryF Dec 08, 2005 04:38 PM

>>I feed the mice that i get at pet stores.

Then you're probably paying 4 to 8 times the price of bulk frozen mice...

>>My snakes just roll right over killed prey and im not about to waste money and not have them eat it.

I have also had a few snakes that would not eat pre-killed no matter what. Usually, it was because they had parisites which made them less interested in feeding...

>>People should lighten up because live isnt that bad.

>>Ive never heard anyone not feed live to their snakes.

>>Ive only been on these boards for a week so i dont know.

Please read these three sentences you wrote, and see if you can draw some conclusions from them.

For reference, I was keeping snakes off and on for 15 years before I learned enough to realize I didn't know squat. A tremendous amount of what I've learned since has been from this group, so it's in your best interest to try and not take this flood of criticism too personally and stick around.

Purplemonkey Dec 16, 2005 03:40 PM

Aren't you the kid who puts snakes in your mouth?

Point proven.
-----
0.1 Irian Jaya carpet python
0.1 Ball python
0.3 Crested Geckos
2.2.7 Leopard Geckos (male-jungle, hypo tangerine carrot tail. female-normal, albino. babies-leucistic, blizzard, normal)
0.1 Western Hognose snake
1.0 Eastern Milksnake (currently free roaming in my home =/)
1.0 Albino Lavender California Kingsnake
1.1 Bearded Dragons
0.2 Water turtles
1.0 Umbrella Cockatoo (belongs to my mom and I)

goregrind Dec 08, 2005 02:53 PM

thats why when i feed live i supervise and keep a pair of needlenose pliers nearby(im sorry if you think im cruel)
-----
jake

my addiction:
2 normal ball pythons (lazlo and izzy)
1 amelenistic corn snake (mazy)
0.1 blizzard corn (blizz)

Uberkid Dec 08, 2005 05:22 PM

My 2 bp's dont even notice killed items. Im not about to swing a dead rat infront of its face and get my arm tagged. Im actually giving one of my non feeder snakes up to a kid that goes to my school and is my neighbor. I will take PICTURES of my balls rolling right over the mouse and i will also take pictures of them chasing live ones. I have corns that are eating live pinks and wont look at killed ones. You say its people being lazy but whatdo you want me to do? The snakes spend more time basking than they do looking at the killed food. PLUS frozen food stinks, by mistake i accidently cut a mouses belly and the whole room stank and the ball would NOT eat it. Feeding live is better because snakes are use to it. Plus my balls are so afraid of killed prey that if i put it infront of there face they put themselves in a ball. With that said i think oyu guys will agree.

nevermore Dec 09, 2005 06:41 AM

OK – it sounds like you’ve at least tried F/T.

That being said, the important thing, when taking advice on these forums, is to understand when all these guys react to something, they’re reacting to a thousand and one posts about snakes getting injured from live prey…unfortunately, at the moment, that’s all falling down on you.

Let’s say then, that your not “lazy” about this (there are, however, plenty of keepers who are) and that you just haven’t had a method to switch the snakes over.

I used to feed live, when I was young. As many arguments as I could have constructed then, on why I did this…if I’m honest now…it was for me (getting to see predator and prey stuff in my own room) and not the snake.

Sure, there can be arguments as to allowing these predators to hunt, for enrichment’s sake…but the possibility of injury outweighs this vague benefit. They are not really hunting. An animal is dropped, suddenly, into their small, captive world. And they are not always in the mood to hunt (these are the times that injuries can happen).

So we’ve already covered F/T as being less money and more convenient – so we’ll consider that covered. One advantage is you don’t have to watch the cage, like a hawk…you HAVE to every time you feed live…when my Fox Snake (mentioned in an above post) was bitten, I got in there right away, and he suffered no major damage (but he would have).

As far as getting your BPs to take interest, there are various methods (some people here can probably mention some better ones). But there’s no need to get your arm bitten. Many reptile supply stores offer long forceps/tongs (there is a thread above, in fact, about that). Get some good tongues and try animating some mice/rats for your snakes. Rub them up in their faces if that doesn’t work (sometimes a snake getting cranky will bite the mouse and the feeding response then takes over). BPs have heat sensors…so it might be good to have recently killed – or to thaw your mice in warm water.

I use tongs for my Eastern Indigo. She’ll eat antying (live, dead, even thawed catfish fillets)…but I offer food to her with tongs, because it gives her a chance to do a little “hunting” and, I hope, a little stimulation. I also do this because I like to know what food items are eaten (one time an uneaten mouse got pushed into her hide with the under-tank heat and I didn’t find out until the smell announced it a few days later…ugh!).

As to the smell of a frozen mouse’s insides…I can attest to how bad that is as well. The mentioned Indigo is a very enthusiastic eater and her species have strong jaws and she’s ruptured more than one thawed mouse…bad smell. My advice would be to just…not cut open the thawed mousse gut.

Good luck!

quantim0 Dec 10, 2005 01:18 PM

My F/T story goes like this;

Got my first snakes, a pueblan milk and sand boa, about 2 years ago. I fed them live food until about 4 months ago. I always fed small meals to aviod any injury, but they never grew as well as I had hoped. So a few months ago I switched all my snakes over to f/t. All but one took f/t on the first try, with some hemastats moving the mouse around to get their attention. Now all I have to do is drop the food in their container and off they go. Now that I can feed the best sized meal for them, they have attained a healthier growth rate.

On your BPs. I just got into keeping them and the breeder I got them from breeds his own rats and feeds live. It took me exactly 1 try to get them feeding on f/t. It took about 5 mins for them to take it. I was moving the prey with hemastats for them and now they take it off much quicker. So it isn't a difficutly thing to do. You just have to work with the animal.

Now cost, I just bought $120 worth of frozen rodents from RodentPro. I got 350 assorted mice and rats. If I bought all of that from my pet shop, I'd pay something like $500 . Now I don't have to worry about the stock at the store if they have the sizes I need. I just go to the fridge and get out what I need.

So f/t is definitely the way to go.
-----
0.0.1 Jayapura GTP
1.1 Pastel 50% het Ghost BPs
1.0 Orange Ghost
1.0 Anery Kenyan Sand Boa
0.1 Dumerils Boa
0.0.1 Cali King
0.1 Apricot Pueblan Milk
1.0 Crested Gecko

uberkid Dec 10, 2005 01:36 PM

i dont have time to feed snakes that wont eat. ill keep feeding live and just supervise them to the fullest. some snakes take f/t some dont. just like what works for me may not work for you so thats all there is to it. still thanks for the stories and info.

rick gordon Dec 12, 2005 11:55 AM

Just wack the mice on the head, they will kick for several minutes and spew blood from their nose, your snakes will love it and eat them imediately with no hesitation. The frozen mice smell bad becuase you have no ideal how long they have been dead before they were frozen, or what bacteria they are contaminated with.

Hotshot Dec 13, 2005 07:27 AM

then you should not be keeping snakes, period!!! That statement just goes to show that no matter what everyones advice is to you, that you are going to continue down your own path. So in the future, I will not waste my time giving you advice.
Brian

>>i dont have time to feed snakes that wont eat. ill keep feeding live and just supervise them to the fullest. some snakes take f/t some dont. just like what works for me may not work for you so thats all there is to it. still thanks for the stories and info.
-----


RATS
1.0 Corn snake "Warpath"(KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake "Havok" (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes "Reaper and Mystique" (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake "Malakai" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake "Deadpool" (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Greenish rat snake "Rogue" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Great plains rat snake "Reign Fire" (TX locale)
1.0 Grey rat snake "Punisher" (White oak phase)(Dwight Good stock)

RACERS
1.0 Eastern Yellow Belly racer "Nightcrawler" (MO locale)

KINGS
1.1 California king snake "Bandit" & "Moonstar" (Coastal phase)
1.1 Prairie king snakes "Bishop" & "Askani" (KY locale)
0.1 Black king snake "Domino" (KY locale)
1.1 Desert Kingsnakes "Gambit" & "Psylocke"
0.1 Florida Kingsnake "Shard"
0.1 Speckled Kingsnake "Haven"

MILKS
1.0 Eastern/red Milk intergrade "Cable" (KY locale)
1.0 Eastern/Red Milk intergrade "Omega Red" (KY locale)

BULLS/GOPHERS/PINES
0.1 Sonoran Gopher "Husk"
1.0 Kankakee bull (Phil Peak stock)

Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian

Matt Campbell Dec 15, 2005 08:49 PM

No, YOU don't get it! Probably a dozen people here with apparently a lot more experience than you have tried to explain the adavatages of F/T and the disadvantages of feeding live. You refuse to listen and what's more you said this:

>>i dont have time to feed snakes that wont eat.

What a way to make that commitment to providing the best care for your animals.

Oh yeah, and for the record I keep over 20 snakes and 20 lizards, all of which eat F/T without issue, including some animals that have been very reluctant feeders but which I was able to get eating F/T with patience and a little effort. Furthermore I work full-time as an animal keeper at an AZA accredited zoo where every reptile gets fed F/T and accepts it without issue - in my building alone there are over 40 assorted snakes, lizards, and crocodilians that all eat F/T without issue.

Do your snakes a favor and try to learn a little patience, do some research and at least TRY some methods for switching to F/T.
-----
Matt Campbell
25 years herp keeping experience
Full-time zookeeper
Personal collection - 21 snakes (9 genera), 20 lizards (4 genera), 6 chelonians (2 genera)

Purplemonkey Dec 16, 2005 03:49 PM

Again, from the kid who puts snakes in his mouth.

Stop being a "rebel" and grow up. You have been contradicting yourself from the start. It is a fact that mice and rats can and will harm your snake. As a snake owner, you should be taking the responsibility of making sure that does not happen. I suggest working more with f/t.

You said that you will not dangle a dead rat in front of your snake, in FEAR of getting tagged. First of all, being tagged is not that bad. I PROMISE that you'll live. Unlike your snake, who may not. Second of all, what the hell are you going to do if the mouse starts attacking your snake? Go rescue your snake? Oh, wait. You're afraid of getting bitten. I'll tell you that mouse and rat bites hurt tons more than a snake tag.

Prehaps you should start to take others adive and learn from their experience.
-----
0.1 Irian Jaya carpet python
0.1 Ball python
0.3 Crested Geckos
2.2.7 Leopard Geckos (male-jungle, hypo tangerine carrot tail. female-normal, albino. babies-leucistic, blizzard, normal)
0.1 Western Hognose snake
1.0 Eastern Milksnake (currently free roaming in my home =/)
1.0 Albino Lavender California Kingsnake
1.1 Bearded Dragons
0.2 Water turtles
1.0 Umbrella Cockatoo (belongs to my mom and I)

Site Tools