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It's a winter heater update

CDieter Dec 13, 2005 12:30 PM

Hi forum,

Just thought I'd throw out some performance stats on the heating unit I showed the forum a few weeks ago. Here in southeast Texas we have dropped to 32-34 several times. On each occasion I have been able to keep 1200 gallon pools at 65-75 degrees using the device. I have modified it to include a second heating element for really cold stretches.

The crocodiles orient themselves towards the incoming water and will stay directly under the downspout on occasion. Water temps directly under the downspout reach 85 degrees.

On another note I have used a unit on smaller 300 gallon enclosures and have gotten the temp up to 102 degrees even with a regulator. I think it's best to use a timer and have the heating unit kick on and off. I'll be experimenting with this over the next couple of evenings.

Bottom line, these heating units work. They are simple, cost effective, and inexpensive to build.
-----
CDieter
'Reason, observation, and experience; the holy trinity of science.'

Replies (5)

goini04 Dec 13, 2005 01:27 PM

Hey Chris,

How much does it cost you to build these heating elements? They really sound interesting and MIGHT work with a slightly more cold tolerant species in some of the more northern states. Perhaps a modified basking area could be worked out as well?

Chris

>>Hi forum,
>>
>>Just thought I'd throw out some performance stats on the heating unit I showed the forum a few weeks ago. Here in southeast Texas we have dropped to 32-34 several times. On each occasion I have been able to keep 1200 gallon pools at 65-75 degrees using the device. I have modified it to include a second heating element for really cold stretches.
>>
>>The crocodiles orient themselves towards the incoming water and will stay directly under the downspout on occasion. Water temps directly under the downspout reach 85 degrees.
>>
>>On another note I have used a unit on smaller 300 gallon enclosures and have gotten the temp up to 102 degrees even with a regulator. I think it's best to use a timer and have the heating unit kick on and off. I'll be experimenting with this over the next couple of evenings.
>>
>>Bottom line, these heating units work. They are simple, cost effective, and inexpensive to build.
>>-----
>>CDieter
>>'Reason, observation, and experience; the holy trinity of science.'
-----
U.A.P.P.E.A.L.
Uniting A Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League

CDieter Dec 13, 2005 02:15 PM

Hi Chris,

The hot water heater element is about $8-$10. The piping aound $10. So essentally the unit is put together for about $20. The more expensive part is the pump, I usually buy a $75-$100 model.

I think these heaters with modification can heat even tropical species in colder climates if you can keep them indoors some of the time or provide a windbreak.

Sincerely,
CDieter

>>Hey Chris,
>>
>> How much does it cost you to build these heating elements? They really sound interesting and MIGHT work with a slightly more cold tolerant species in some of the more northern states. Perhaps a modified basking area could be worked out as well?
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>>>Hi forum,
>>>>
>>>>Just thought I'd throw out some performance stats on the heating unit I showed the forum a few weeks ago. Here in southeast Texas we have dropped to 32-34 several times. On each occasion I have been able to keep 1200 gallon pools at 65-75 degrees using the device. I have modified it to include a second heating element for really cold stretches.
>>>>
>>>>The crocodiles orient themselves towards the incoming water and will stay directly under the downspout on occasion. Water temps directly under the downspout reach 85 degrees.
>>>>
>>>>On another note I have used a unit on smaller 300 gallon enclosures and have gotten the temp up to 102 degrees even with a regulator. I think it's best to use a timer and have the heating unit kick on and off. I'll be experimenting with this over the next couple of evenings.
>>>>
>>>>Bottom line, these heating units work. They are simple, cost effective, and inexpensive to build.
>>>>-----
>>>>CDieter
>>>>'Reason, observation, and experience; the holy trinity of science.'
>>-----
>>U.A.P.P.E.A.L.
>>Uniting A Proactive Primate and Exotic Animal League
-----
CDieter
'Reason, observation, and experience; the holy trinity of science.'

jpaner Dec 14, 2005 07:57 AM

Any idea what your water temps would be with out the heaters? I'm not heating my acutus pound and the water temp is about 62-63F. This is with cool days (high 60s), and nights in the low 40s).

A gas/propane heater will always be cheaper to run. Also if the power goes out you could be with out electric heat for a while.

The other thing keeping me back from these is the costs of running large awg wire out to the ponds. Keep in mind how many amps these will draw. Also they may not be 100% legal.

That siad I'm going to try one on one small pond and see how it goes. I'll put an amp meter on it to see how much it's costing to run.

What size units are you using?

John Paner

CDieter Dec 14, 2005 08:30 AM

Hi John,

My pond will stay around 60-65 as long as the days are decent. They are submerged in earth so it helps with insulation. On the cold days we have had the pool stays between 10-15 degrees warmer than what it would be otherwise. Also as mentioned the animals find the heat.

If you run these heaters after a large body of water is already chilled expect considerable warming time with 1000 gallons plus. They work best when you anticipate the cooler temps and run them about 8 hours before hand. They are excellent at maintaining and steadily increasing temps.

'>A gas/propane heater will always be cheaper to run. Also if the power goes out you could be with out electric heat for a while.'

To a point but not always. A good friend of mine owns a pool company and uses alot of heaters and such, he said it would be more costly than what I'm doing. If we lose power, which happens occasionaly, the only pools I worry about are smaller, those over 1000 gallons take quite awhile to lose their heat. Likewise they take a while to warm.

>>The other thing keeping me back from these is the costs of running large awg wire out to the ponds. Keep in mind how many amps these will draw. Also they may not be 100% legal.
>>

They are legal here, I don't know about where you are at. I had an electrician build me an entirely new breaker box and wire my skeleton up for me. The last group I did myself with an experienced friend. We have a 30 amp breaker specifically for these heaters. The breaker is connected to an outlet box with a switch. I just flip the switch on the days I think we'll need the water temps maintained and that it.

>>That siad I'm going to try one on one small pond and see how it goes. I'll put an amp meter on it to see how much it's costing to run. '

My electric bill last month was $268, about the same as it is every month here in Texas.

>>
>>What size units are you using?
>>

I use 2000 watt and 1500watt elements. Remember most of my heaters are on a timer and come off and on, this helps me keep the temps where I want them. Bigger pools stay on during cold snaps.
-----
CDieter
'Reason, observation, and experience; the holy trinity of science.'

CDieter Dec 14, 2005 09:15 AM

I'm not sure how to do these staggered so I'll just list them.

The first picture is the outdoor pool heater. It has 2 heating elements. I don't use the second except on the really cool nights and even then may be put on a timer.

The second is the unit on smaller 'grow-out' stock tanks that I use. These are on a timer and have a temperature control. The reason being I have found that even with a temperature control the water will get to warm. The best scenario has been to simply put the entire unit on a timer. This allows proper temp regulation and save alot of energy/cost.

Third pic is a side view of the smaller unit.

-----
CDieter
'Reason, observation, and experience; the holy trinity of science.'

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