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A Few Questions for all you Flapneck keepers...

kimax Dec 18, 2005 08:59 PM

I recently acquired my first chameleon (though not my first reptile) last week. She (I think, no spurs..) is a 3 month old CB Flapneck. I did quite a bit of research before I got her but found many things seemed to contradict each other so I thought the remainder of my questions I could ask here. Is it better to get a pair so that the possibility of egg binding is decreased or is the risk still the same? only other thing is her feces are slightly orange....? Is this normal? Other than that, everything seems good. She travels through the whole enclsoure, she laps water off the glass when i mist her 3times a day and she has been a pretty good eater.Thanks for any help!

Kelly

Replies (10)

sam1404 Dec 18, 2005 11:57 PM

I just got a flapneck chameleon as well.
I really enjoy her.

I was told that their feces is supposed to be brown and white, and that if the white part is yellow or orange she is dehydrated.
You will have to get her out of that tank and into a screen cage. Chameleons need good ventilation(helps with bactiria and it wont get too hot) They also prefer to spend time at the top of the cage so a taller cage is better than a longer one.

Heres a couple pics of Bubs
Image

sam1404 Dec 19, 2005 12:00 AM

I cant figure out how to post more than one pic in a url??

Image

sam1404 Dec 19, 2005 12:01 AM

Heres one more.......till i can figure out how to put them on the same message..lol
Image

Willhayward Dec 20, 2005 09:18 AM

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CANADIAN CHAMELEONS

kimax Dec 19, 2005 10:29 AM

Hey thanks for the reply. I had a feeling about the dehydration and the color of feces because they have become darker since I got her and are no longer as bright as they were when she first arrived, in fact there was a fairly dark one this morning. I have a screen cage ready for her, however, I think she may be too small for it. I have her in a 10 gallon right now, so I could move her into a 15 or a 25 aquarium, but i dont know if this would be any better. The screen tank I have for her is a 65 gallon and though I put her crickets and butterworms etc. in cups in the vines, would she be able to find her food adequately? How old and how big is yours? My girl's body is maybe 2.5 inches.

sam1404 Dec 19, 2005 02:13 PM

My cham is about 6 inches long not including tail. I have her in a screen cage 24x14x14. I don't cup feed I just put in about 6 and take out the leftovers at night. She won't eat from a cup.
If your chameleon will eat from a cup you should be able to put her in a screen cage as long as she knows where it is and has enough vines and such to get around she will be fine. If she only ate free roaming crix it might be to much space to start.

kimax Dec 20, 2005 08:42 PM

Well I took all your advice and bought my girlie a small screen flexarium. It is the exo-terra 22 gallon. It is much smaller than the 65 that I had bought for her when she grew up and hopefully this will be better for her. She is currently basking under the light. I appreciate everyone's input and even though I may not have chosen the easiest beginner cham, I am willing to do whatever it takes to keep her happy.

WillHayward Dec 21, 2005 07:44 AM

Good! The flexariums/reptariums are very useful tools.

Another useful device in a thermometer and probe. Put the probe on the basking spot, directly where you r chameleon tends to sit most often, and the keep the display unit were you can see. After you have had this up for a week or so, you can take it out since you will know the temperature is correct, or leave it in if it doesn't bother you.

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CANADIAN CHAMELEONS

ChameleonTattoo Dec 19, 2005 10:14 PM

For my baby cams I put a slice of fruit in the tree wedged between a branch Y everyday. Always in the same spot. Then her crickets ect. will go there to eat it and she will know she can always find them at that spot.
It is a good idea to get her out of the glass and into the screen. Just make sure she has a tree tall enough to get her to the lights and you'll always find her up there.

kinyonga Dec 20, 2005 10:16 AM

You said..." Is it better to get a pair so that the possibility of egg binding is decreased or is the risk still the same?"...IMHO technically the risk is the same since egg binding has nothing/little to do with whether you have a pair of chameleons or not. (IMHO it is not true that a chameleon will become eggbound from not being mated as soon as she reaches sexual maturity...in case that is what you are referring to....and in my experience and opinion, mating a chameleon before it is full grown is not a good idea if you want the chameleon to live a long life.)

From what I have learned from reading and my own (many years) experience is that egg binding is caused by things like improper husbandry practices that result in such things as metabolic bone disease, or other imbalances in their diet. Also, improper temperatures or hydration levels can play a part.

Then, "physical" things such as deformed eggs, fused eggs, eggs that have been retained until they are too large,and deformities (for lack of a better word to desctibe what I mean) in the chameleon's reproductive tract can also be reasons for egg binding.

Not providing a proper/acceptable (to the chameleon) place for the female to lay her eggs is one of the most common reasons for the chameleon to become eggbound. (Many female chameleons, if not all, will produce eggs (infertile) without having been mated...and its hard for the inexperienced keeper to even know that she is carrying eggs sometimes so they will not even provide her with any place to dig.)

With any egglaying female chameleon I always provide a container in her cage for her to dig in when she is ready to lay her eggs. I also have a modified 65 liter rubbermaid-type container that she can be moved to once she is intent on digging the final hole to lay the eggs in.

IMHO you have not picked one of the easier chameleons to start off with. I hope that you will have success with her anyway!

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