Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have an odd problem with my Red Tail Columbian Boa... He/She (dont actually know, but I reffer to it as a he) as been acting strange for a few weeks now, and it has got me worried. "Mitch" will not eat, He shows no interest in rats, whether they are live juvinile/adults or previously killed frozen rats. Whenever anyone or anything goes near his cage he will occasionally Hiss, he has also hissed at me a few times when I have tried to feed him or pick him up, which he has never done befor. He just sits there with his mouth open about 1/4 of an inch most of the time also, he dosent strike at anything, he only hisses. He has been this way for a few weeks now, and I am not sure what is wrong. He is in a large pin, appx 5' tall x 4' wide, he has a 75 watt Red Heat Lamp (ordered offline, no pet stores here) on him in the top part of the cage, he goes where he wants to to cool down or whatever. I make sure he has clean water all the time. Also, I have had him for about 4 years now, I bought him when he was appx 6 inches long, he is appx 7.5 feet long now. I have fed him by hand until now.(held the rat by the tail in the air in front of him)I have recently moved to a new area with a colder winter climate, his heat lamp broke in the move, it was a black heat light. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong with him and what I should do? ANY help will be very much appreciated, Thank You.

is he or she wild caught? it should be big enough to see if its a male or female by the spurs next to the cloaca. Anyways try giving it a hide a box, even use a card board box, I had a 9 foot wild caught suriname that would show the same behavoirs, as soon as gave it a hide-a-box it ate all the time with no problems, it would hide in the box and I would dangle the rat out side the opening and it would stike out and pull the rat inside where it would constrict and eat its prey. it could also be the temp, what is the ambiant temp in it enclouser?
It could be just too cold. if you cant get a heat rock, try a plug in heat pad you can buy at walmart and put under the hide-a-box. make sure you get the ones that are adjustable and keep it on low heat. Just a few ideas anyways.
Before I got myself heat tape, I would just keep my snakes in small plasic bins, and spread them on a heated blanket, the one you plug in and this would keep them warm thru the winter months.

hooked to a rheostat at minimum, preferably a thermostat.

Bob McPhe

is the fact that you said he sits with his mouth 1/4 open most of the time (if I got that correct), this is usually a sign of respiratory distress. If it is cooler and his lamp broke for a time, he may have gotten too chilled. An RI can also cause food refusal, and if he was sick, he probably wouldn't want to be messed with. If you have a temp gun find out what his temps are, aim it at the bottom of the cage below his lights.
If he has a RI, you will need to raise temps to near 95F until he is better. But, if it is an RI, he should go to the vet to get antibiotics. Between the antibiotics and higher temps, he should get well.
RIs sometimes result in fluid or bubbles coming from the mouth, if it is far along. Sometimes you can hear the rattle when he breathes. RIs can kill. It is definately worth it for the vet to check this out, especially if he sits with his mouth open a lot.
I hope this is not what he has, but be sure to look hard at the signs he is showing you.
Good luck,
Laura
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Delusions of Grandeur feed the EGO...

If he/she has his mouth open, it sounds as though he has labored breathing and must do this to breathe. It sounds as though you currently have no heat on this snake. That big cage needs to have a cool side in the low 70s and a warm side around 90. A 75 watt heat bulb was never enough to provide proper temps in a 5' X 4' cage unless the room was very warm. The snake needs an under tank heater and maybe even a heat light during the day to keep daytime temps. up. As for heat rocks, I would not get one if you get an under tank heater. Some are better than others and if used properly, they can be beneficial. A heat rock should be used as a warm spot to help a snake digest. They should never be the sole heat source. And as I said, some brands are better than others and do not get super hot spots. You also need a temp. gauge, gun, etc. to monitor your temps. Your snake is too cold and does not feel good, therefore he will not eat. Good luck nursing him back to health.

Phil Goss

Thanks for all the help everyone. He ate a juvenile rat this morning at about 5am, finally, and now he seems a little more active. I have his heat lamp pointed at his basking spot, I am not sure of the temperature though, I will have to get a few thermostats' to place in his cage. Will those standard "indoor thermostats" work allright? I have a thermostatically controlled heating pad that I can use for him, just have to find it. It is kind of like a heat blanket, only about 2'x2'. And I will get him a hide box as well. I have not seen any bubbles coming from his mouth, nor have I heard any irregularities in his breathing. But I will keep an eye out for those things. As I live in a ranching community, I am not sure if any of the veterinarians here have any experience with reptiles, I will have to call around and find out. Again, Thanks for the help.