Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Here are my plans for building a semi-pvcx rack.
I know there are probably flaws or ways to improve so feel free to modify it to your hearts content.
Enjoy!

Link for Rack Instructions

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Sincerely, Jason
www.NortheastSnakes.com
NortheastSnakes@aol.com

Nice! Love the info on the site by the way.

Good Job!
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"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.1 Hypomelenistic Red Tailed Boas
2.0 Double Het Stripe Albino Red Tailed Boas
0.1 Suriname Red Tailed Boa
0.1 Anerthrystic Red Tailed Boa
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Rhinoceros Iguana's
1.0 Green Iguana
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse

>>Here are my plans for building a semi-pvcx rack.
>>I know there are probably flaws or ways to improve so feel free to modify it to your hearts content.
>>Enjoy!
>>
>> Link for Rack Instructions
>>
>>
>>-----
>>Sincerely, Jason
>> www.NortheastSnakes.com
>>NortheastSnakes@aol.com

Hi,
Do you think this design would work for 36" wide shelves holding 4 Sterilite 1752 boxes per shelf? They're 8" wide, so I don't think one could squeeze 3 boxes per shelf on 24" width.

Dan

They will sag even more. His shelves sag at 23" but the boxes help keep things reasonably workable.

If you want to go with wider shelves, you have some options.

One option is to make a double-sided shelf: Top is a piece of 1/4" thick PVCX, then attach a wood frame of 1x2's to the shelf like the original poster did for his bottom shelf, then attach another piece of PVCX. This takes twice as much PVCX but you can make the shelves 3ft wide with no worries.

The great thing about the double-sided hollow shelf is that you can heat in the shelf under the top piece so your boxes never slide directly on the heater. Plus the mass of the shelf makes for a smoother spread of heat.

I used this idea for a baby rack. I used 3/8" thick pine molding instead of 1x2s because I didn't need alot of strength. Worked out way better than single PVCX shelves. No escapes. Heat cable inside the shelves, so no exposed heater.

Actually, my shelves have not started sagging at all yet....and I'm not sure if they will....maybe in time...who knows...but so far, so good. I have about 1/8 inch space above each box so air can flow out of the top as well as the holes on the sides.....I haven't had any trouble sliding the 32 qt sterilites in and out. I did have sagging with the rack I built for the 16 qt Sterilites at first..but I build it without using the 1/8 inch spacer and no support on the bottom...I have since completely re-assembled them so the racks slide with ease...and no sagging yet.

One reason for this (I think) may be due to the fact that I built the first rack in my unfinished basement, with a much colder temperature. Once the rack was moved into my 75-80 degree herp room, the wood probably shifted and adjusted and warped (as much as it could given I used a lot of screws). I also made the sterilite tubs fit very tightly in to the rack to begin with....b/c of fear of snake escape...but soon realized that they cannot escape with a 1/8-1/4 inch gap at the top of the container...

I like your idea about having the space between the shelves for heating. That would be ideal for a hatchling rack containing species that are difficult to get started....so that you could rule out incorrect temps as a factor for nonfeeders.

Another option would be to use thicker PVCX for the shelves. Although...no matter what material would be used...something would have to be added for structural support if using 36" wide shelves....3 feet is just too much space between the sides of the rack.

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Sincerely, Jason
www.NortheastSnakes.com
NortheastSnakes@aol.com

Another great way to run cable from shelf to shelf is to build the rack out of pvc pipes. No nails or screws needed. Just the pipes to length and they glue to the connectors. The make three way connectors for horizontal - vertical framming. since the pipe is hollow you can drill a small hole at one end and feed the cable under each shelf and then run it back into the pipe and bring it back out for the next shelf up and just continue this until you reach the top shelf. Fire hazzard is also almost non existent as well. It is very light weight. Do a key word search for pvc construction...it is very easy!!

What range of a thermal gradient are you able to achieve without individual heat sources?
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1.1 Asian Vine Snake "Mr. Green" "Chronic"
2.2 Leopard Geckos "?, ?, ?, Kokopelle"
1.0 Dendrobates leucomelas "Skywalker"
1.0 Ferret "Oliver"
1.1 Cats "Chester, Satine"
1.0 Dogs "Rocko"
1.0 Asian Leaf Frog "?"

It varies depending on placement of the racks, as well as placement of the sterilites within the racks AND placement of my space heater. It also varies greatly depending on how your reptile room is set-up and insulated. Outdoor temps could also potentially play a role.

Using individual heat sources for a large collection is ideal but can be VERY costly. I still use individual heat sources for some species and it is easier to control the heat gradient in those situations. I have been able to vary temps between 5 - 10 degrees within most containers....I'd have to measure temps again though to be 100% certain. I've recently followed a friend's advice on some temp variances and I just witnessed my male 100% het pied going at it with my super-sized 1999 female....I'm hoping for the best!

What range of a thermal gradient are you able to achieve without individual heat sources?

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Sincerely, Jason
www.NortheastSnakes.com
NortheastSnakes@aol.com