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Basking spots (materials) and fire hazards.

R_AK47 Jan 04, 2006 10:16 PM

These topics have probably been discussed before. What materials are the most popular for constructing basking spots? I've been using wooden boards for mine. I've seen some iguana cages that have basking spots made from wire laundry racks, not sure how you'd measure the surface temperature with one of those though. Has anyone here tried using laundry racks for monitor basking spots?

I recently read several articles online about fires that were caused by heat lamps that were attached to reptile cages. In all the years that I've owned pet reptiles I've never experienced a fire, but was wondering what steps others on this site have taken to prevent such a disaster. Maybe others have thought of good preventative steps to take that I haven't.

Replies (11)

VaranusTattus Jan 05, 2006 02:39 AM

This is a topic where COMMON SENSE comes into play. I know that you here of people burning down their homes from some crazy heating set-up. When you set up a enclosure (no matter what size) all hazards should be taken into account. Wood, concrete block, rocks, and just about everything has been used. Some things we probably can't even imagine. I personally would never use a grated or wire basking area. It is your choice, but it is the lizards health. A surface always helps to warm a reptile as well as the heat source. Not to mention toes could get caught in wire and sharp wire ends that aren't covered could easily cut any reptile or owner. Shrouds/wire covers should be placed on or around heat sources to prevent burns and injuries. Placing your heat source in an area where it won't come into contact with the more likely flammable objects is a great idea! If you anchor a heat lamp by some plastic plants or other fancy reptile gifts and your pet climbs up them knocking a sting of plastic vines on to it, I am sure it could definetly cause some smoke and possibly fire. Then your bedding material also could become very dry and well dry wood chips could catch causing the famous chain reaction. There is a million reasons for what COULD happen. Get a Temp Gun and check your basking spots. The suggested basking spot for most monitors is 130 degrees. Keep heat sources free and clear of all unnecassary items. Keep some distance between the source and surface. This doesn't have to be super far away with a huge light! Lower wattage can be used when set-up is right.You will learn all of this with experience and cage designs. My basking spots are all mainly wood (braches and platforms) or sandy areas for some species. Most lizards like to get a little elevated when basking. I also include subtrate heat that is at lower temps giving them a variation of spots to choose from. I even have heated tubs of water for aquatic species. Helps them defecate also! Wash it out and your good to go. Have fun and just use common sense, if your not sure of something it probably isn't a good idea! This was my long version of use your brain....

R_AK47 Jan 05, 2006 10:47 AM

I do have a temp gun. My basking spot is around 150 degrees though, rather than the 130 you suggested. The basking spot is a wooden platform. I don't use a wire platform, but have observed others using them.

SHvar Jan 05, 2006 11:08 AM

The individual boxed the lights inside of a wooden box outside of the cage, this was done because the owner wanted to protect the lizard from the lights and the lights from the lizard. The problem was as follows the design boxes in alot of heat as heat rises to the high point of the cage and burned the wiring up.
The suggestion was to mount the lights inside of the cage, use ceramic light assemblies, and protect the wiring by either mounting it behind the cage wall (top), or basking light assembly. When the lights are mounted inside and the temps are close to correct the lizard will not burn itself, it has no reason to climb on the bulbs other than normal curiosity for short periods. Also you get the air temps raised and kept higher when the lights are in the cage. The wiring if mounted behind the ceramic light assemblies, or through holes in the wood are kept at the air temp of the cage, not over heating.
Like the other responder mentioned, common sense goes a long way. Also I disagree about basking temps at 130f (except hatchlings), mine range from 135-195f, depends on the lizards preferences.
Another suggestion that lowers the light socket temp, overall air temps, and easily the temps of other components is to use low wattage bulbs.

VaranusTattus Jan 05, 2006 02:31 PM

Just so everyone knows I am not trying to make anyone feel dumb. I just have seen some ridiculous things that people have done. Burning down your house and all your belongings to heat a cage seems to be way extreme, but a reality for some unfortunate people. I think people try to hard sometimes. I also have higher temp basking spots. I just said that as the range most people keep for monitors, or suggest to keep for them. It is your choice! I did not say you have to keep that temp. I live in Arizona and basking areas and rocks get way higher than 130 degrees! Plenty of lizards are out doing push ups on rocks (I didn't say basking)when it is 120 outside and surface temps can burn. All reptiles have different tempature ranges that they prefer. Most desert species requiring high temps, of coarse there are always exceptions. Gilas obviously don't like the high temps at all. I understand when people say something, others look for things to correct. All in all it is just suggestions and experiences everyone is sharing. Nothing is an exact science with captive husbandry. I know there are some young readers that look to this site and our answers for suggestions. When we write we have to take into account who might read our writings. That is the reason for my long comments. I try to give plenty of info for all to read. Then it is up to the individual to apply what they have learned or studied. Some people give horrorable suggestions that could lead to health problems, injury, or even death of a reptile (I am not saying my suggestions are perfect). A young unexperienced reader might take this into account and apply it with the end result costing them thier pet or in this case their home. Best of luck to everyone and their collections!

joeysgreen Jan 08, 2006 03:36 AM

150-195F? Sounds like you're talking Martha Stuart and oven temps! Where do you find temps like this in nature and is there a lizard sitting there? Are you temp-gunning the bulb surface temperature?

You might just be a bit overzealous if these are true basking temps, and perhaps should reconsider what the function of a thermogradient is and what it's supposed to accomplish for your lizards.

Ian

FR Jan 08, 2006 10:32 AM

Well, here(tucson) as a matter of fact and its not hot enough long enough to support monitors. Where monitors occur, its common for temps to be above 130F most if not all of the year.

The average ground temp in the sun in good old Tucson in the summer commonly exceeds 130F and at times exceeds 165F. And yes, lizards are commonly using those areas. This is not even considering the temps of the best heat sinks, as they are far too hot.

I do field work with montane rattlesnakes and our site is at 6000ft. There are temps there in the winter, in fact today, that exceed 140F. Of course thats too hot for the snakes. They choose areas that have ground temps that reach 100F or so. And yes, they are active today too.

I have taken my heat gun to Australia and I found the surface temps there to be much higher then surface temps here, with a comparable air temp. (I really wondered what the custom inspectors thought of that heat gun)

In fact, in winter there were areas so hot, that the monitors had to seek areas in the shade to live(top end)

Althought I have not recorded a temp in nature around 200F.

In captivity, its a totally different approach. I used temps where the hot spot reached 200F, not for the monitors to use that exact spot, but so there were be a larger gradient for the monitors to choose from. For instance, if the top of a retes stack is 200F the next layer(dark) is 135F, and this is the choice I was after. But much to my surprise, the monitors would indeed use the 200F hot spot at times.

About folks burning their houses down, well my field partner is a captain at the firehouse and other firemen commonly go to our study site and help. I also get to ride along with them. After hearing their stories, people do not need heat lamps and lizard hotspots to start fires or injure themselves. They can think of all sorts of inventive ways to do so. My partner(by the time they make captain, they are a bit jaded) calls these types of people, job security.

There are many concerns here, first of which is experience. There is a difference between newbies and experts. Even if this forum refuses to recognize it. What that means is, not just experience with monitors, but more importantly experience with the tools used to support monitors. Learning to use the tools is as important as understanding monitors. Heat lamps and electricity are tools. Failure to apply those properly can be dangerous to monitors and people. Same with power tools from Home depot and Lowes. I wonder if power tool injuries have risen since the masses can now buy cheap power tools from discount stores???????

So yes, with anything you do, you must first use common sense. But unfortunately, common sense if not applied equally amoung humans. And obviously is not often taught in schools. FR

VaranusTattus Jan 09, 2006 01:55 AM

Wow did this subject blow up! I was the first to make a comment and when I said to use a range of 130 degrees I was using it loosely, I shouldn't have even mentioned it. I was more concerned about telling someone higher temps and them doing some ridiculous set-up to reach those temps and well, burning their house down. In the military the famous saying always stands true "Common Sense is not a common virtue". I actually am going to be a firefighter starting in Feburary and have many friends that are already there. I just so happen to have already seen some really curious things! The question was about burning your house down. That is what I mainly wanted to focus on. It seems ridiculous, if you have any experience with reptiles and are a respossible adult it would seem impossible to do something like that. I guess that is the problem. When I used Tucson as an example I wasn't trying to say it is great for monitors outside, just use surface temps as an example. You can burn your self in many ways by summer suface temps. Try walking barefoot on pavement! As for even asking that question I thought I was talking to a young kid with little experience and a new baby monitor. I wanted to explain the importance of a heating area and being clear of debris or other great forms of accelerants. For someone with experience in monitors they should know all the possibilities and hazards of keeping such large lizards. A lizard can re-adjust a cage easily if not set-up properly. Thought should be used when using cage materials, I don't think I need to dwell on this part. Well, I hope not! It is ultimately your choice on how you keep your lizard. I can talk till I am blue in my face and people will still continue to chill monitors, burn monitors, and call the Fire Dept. with famous tales of the lizard light. Best of luck to you all and hope your possesions never become an insurance claim. Common sense y'all!

R_AK47 Jan 09, 2006 11:21 PM

Actually I'm not an inexperienced kid. I'm in my late 20's and have owned pet reptiles about as long as I've been alive. I have not owned many monitors during this time (I was more into iguanas until a few years ago). My monitor is a not a baby either. He is a 4 1/2 foot, 2 year old, nile monitor. I have owned him since he was a baby though. I simply became concerned while reading some of the recent news headlines. The temps required for monitors are high. I decided it wouldn't hurt to see what steps to prevent fire disasters that others where doing, just in case there was something I hadn't thought of.

grayada1 Jan 09, 2006 08:30 AM

N/P

SHvar Jan 08, 2006 11:24 AM

With monitors and even bearded dragons using them.
Red ackies, I had to get this one while he wasnt on the spot, in fact adults will use in my experience 205 or possibly more. No, these are not the surface of the bulb in any way, in fact this picture I put the reflector back over the bulb to show that Im reading the corkbark basking spot thats only 6 inches away.

A picture taken after the animal was done basking again, after all you dont get the same readings with them in the way. This is from about 12 inches away from 45 watt outdoor halogen flood bulbs, the same used in all but my hatchling ackies cage.

Here is another using the same bulbs, the same plywood, only many bulbs for an almost 6.5ft monitor.

Here is the same basking spot.

Heres an older picture of the same basking spot set exactly the same with the lizard basking.

Another cage..

The beardies, yes they love high basking temps.

Dont confuse air and surface temperatures, surface is as you feel with your hand on a rock or the pavement, air is what you feel all around you. The surface needs to measured with an infared temp gun, the air with an ambient thermometer.
The air temps around these basking spots is commonly between 82-86f some may be closer to 90f, but the cages range down to 68-71f on the cool ends.

BrianT Jan 08, 2006 02:44 PM

When discussing the subject of fire safety/prevention, don't only consider the cage itself, look at the area where this enclosure will be kept. The last house fire my department was called to was at a ball python collector's house. He lost somewhere around $100k in snakes within a split second. His animals were kept in his basement right where his gas line came into his house. He developed a leak in the lines which quickly filled that end of the house and blew half his house apart. Basically, avoid highly flammable materials and materials with low incendiary points. Also, inspect the products you use, make sure wires aren't exposed or coming apart, etc.

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