The ranges you found in the books is correct. The actual amount of days varies depending on the actual temperature of the incubator, if a degree or two warmer it could take a few days to a week or two less and if a degree or two cooler, it will take a few days to a week longer.
Once the eggs start pipping (the hatchling will slit the egg in one or more places using an 'egg-tooth' and often will rest before actually emerging from the egg. Leave the hatchling in the egg (they tend to stick their snouts or head out of the egg to breathe) till it emerges on it's own. Often they will stay partly in the egg for several hours to a day or two, absorbing the egg yoke. Once they come out completely, transferr them into a small tank (10 gal tanks are good for several hatchlings, though it 's good not to put more than 5 hatchlings per tank, to prevent tail and toe nips). They don't eat right away, usually still well fed from the egg yolk for another couple of days, but mist frequently.
Cage setup is identical to adults, with a UVB bulb and basking light (for 10-12 gal tanks or containers, a 40-60watt household bulb is fine). You want the basking spot around 100-115F which is a bit higher than for adults. Feed them 2-4 times a day (dusting every other feeding with calcium D3 and multivitamine powder for the first couple months, then just one feeding a day dusted) with appropirate sized crickets (pin head to 1/8" is typically ideal to start with, make sure you mail in bulk a few days ahead of time to a week or so, just incase they hatch a bit early). Greens can be offered but probably won't be touched for a few weeks or more.
The only lights that produce heat and UVB are Mercury Vapour Bulbs but as these are quite expensive, it may be better to use florescent tube UVB lights instead (you can use a 4" fixture and hang it over several tanks, to help cut down the cost of buying a whole bunch of small tubes).
The initial setups for baby bearded dragons is the most expensive, as you have to have lots of cages of various sizes to hold the growing hatchlings. Hatchings should be separated by size as they grow (larger ones being put together with similiarly sized dragons, etc). You will find you will have many different cages with different sized dragons by the time your second clutch starts hatching. Then you will have to start buying crickets of various sizes (really small for newly hatched, and slightly bigger for older dragons). YOu will need to order at least a 1000 crickets per week to keep up with the appetites of the dragons.
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PHLdyPayne
