I've put together a caresheet for my website. For you experienced Black milk lovers; I'd like you to tear it apart if you wouldn't mind. Don't pay attention to the grammar and spelling. Its a rough copy and i'm looking for suggestions with the content only.
Thanks
Brian
Black Milk Snake
Lampropeltis Triangulum gaigeae
The Black Milk is a large sized milk snake that has gained in popularity in recent years. Its large size and calm disposition has made it a coveted addition to many collections.
Known to those that have them, the puppy dog of the milk snake world. Their relative large size and calm disposition make them a great snake for handling purposes.
Common Name: Black Milksnake
Latin: Lampropeltis triangulum gaigeae
Native Origin: Mountains of Costa Rica and western Panama.
Size: Adult Avg - 50-65 inches Adult Weight Avg 1000-1400grams
Hatchling Avg 12-14 inches Hatchling Weight Avg - 16-20 grams
Life span: Unknown
Physical Characteristics: This sub-specie, as hatchlings, is a typical tri-coloured snake. Brightly coloured and evenly ringed make this snake appear to be related to most South or Central American milk snakes. Black tipping is common on both the red and white rings. This milk snake is considered to be to only truly melanistic milk snake.
With each subsequent molt, juvenile black milks loose their bright rings to eventually become a truly black snake. Some adults retain faint rings but most are only seen if the light conditions are right.
The band count* averages 17-22 red/orange, 38-42 black and 22-25 white/cream.
* Note: The band counts are average and not all specimens will be identical.
Enclosure: Adult Black milks are comfortable in confined spaces. An appropriate sized living space must be provided to accommodate this characteristic. Adults can live permanently in a plastic sweater box measuring 40 inches by 20 inches but a larger enclosure maybe welcomed also. Hatchling Blacks are easily at home in shoebox-sized containers.
Temperature: This Sub-Species appears to thrive in cooler temperature ranges. An ambient daytime temperature of 75°- 82°F is adequate. Night time temps can drop as low as 65°-70°F. A constant warm spot, provided best with an Under Tank Heater (UTH), is a must to ensure proper digestion of meals. Heat lamps can be used but I do not recommend them as the direct heat provided can vary if there is a draft in the enclosure area.
Substrate: Personal preference will dictate what you choose for your snakes living medium. There are various substrates that are recommended and a few that should be avoided. Some good choices are aspen, paper towel, and coconut mulch.
A few to definitely stay away from are pine and cedar shavings as these can be toxic to your snake. Another item used is newspaper but I tend to stay away from it because the ink does rub off and I feel that may have adverse affects on a snake’s skin. If you must use newsprint, try to avoid using the photos, as there are more colours that can be rubbed onto your snake’s skin.
Environment: Black milk snakes are secretive and shy. A hiding place in both the warm and cooler ends of the enclosure will keep your snake healthy and happy. When choosing a hide, keep in mind that Black milks like small, cramped hides to feel secure. Black milk snakes naturally live in moist, wet areas at high elevations. Keeping its enclosure dry is a good move but some moisture can be beneficial in small portions. With that in mind, pay close attention to the shedding cycle as light misting maybe required to help in molting*. A small plastic container filled with sphagnum moss or paper towel is useful to assist with molting if required. A rough surface such as a rock or log is also recommended.
Diet: Hatchlings readily eat pinkie mice after their first shed. The size of your snake will dictate the appropriate size food item you will need to feed your snake. Adults will comfortably eat multiple full-grown mice or 60-80gr rats for the duration of their life. Although, this sub-species normally will eat quite regularly and easily; it is highly recommended that you purchase a feeding hatchling that has eaten numerous times.
Daily Maintenance: With regular checks into the enclosure, the maintenance will be minimal. Fresh water is a requirement and check it often as many snakes like to defecate in their water dishes. If you are using an aspen or coconut substrate, spot cleaning of excrement is made easy. The alternative is removing everything in the enclosure to remove the bottom bedding and this may cause undo stress to the occupant. I recommend an entire enclosure cleaning once a month or sooner if required. Handling is recommended but in short intervals; handling can stress a hatchling snake.
It is also very important to keep strict records of your snakes weight, feed dates, feed items, and shed dates. This information will give a strong history of the health of your serpent.
