Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello,

I have a question about humidity for E. climacophora, Kunasir variety.

I asked about humidity on yellow rats before and I was surprised to learn that higher humidity helps there, so I thought I'd ask about this other 'problem' rat snake I've got.

He's been a very difficult feeder (he ate well in the spring and early summer, nothing most of the summer, just took a mouse a week and a half ago), but I've chalked that up to his species, since I've heard they can be prone to fasting. But just to make sure I've got all my bases covered just in case, what kind of humidity works best with these?

Thanks,
Billy

>>Hello,
>>
>>I have a question about humidity for E. climacophora, Kunasir variety.
>>
>>I asked about humidity on yellow rats before and I was surprised to learn that higher humidity helps there, so I thought I'd ask about this other 'problem' rat snake I've got.
>>
>>He's been a very difficult feeder (he ate well in the spring and early summer, nothing most of the summer, just took a mouse a week and a half ago), but I've chalked that up to his species, since I've heard they can be prone to fasting. But just to make sure I've got all my bases covered just in case, what kind of humidity works best with these?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Billy

Billy, all ratsnakes like some humidity, including this one, but high humidity is not mandatory. Ratsnakes seem to respond to increases in humidity or rain showers. I usually spray my cages just before feeding and it acts like a "cue" to the snakes. Dampness, increase in humidity = food. Anyway, it works some of the time, to get them trained that way. Also, a moist hide during the shed cycle sometimes helps. And finally, I usually supply a little extra heat after eating in the form of an undercage heat pad.

Kunisar Island ratsnakes have a very short active season in the wild. They often go off feed very early in the Fall. We either have to have some tricks up our sleeves for getting these problem, cold-weather feeders to eat, or we have to find a way to cool them for a long period of time.

At present I've been trying to keep my South Korean Dione's ratsnakes active. It's easy with the young ones, but the adults really slow down in September. That doesn't mean they won't eat at all. I can usually keep them going until the end of October by treating them with a lot of care and changing some feeding strategies. For one thing, keep making the food items smaller until they take them. They also will probably only take live. They may only eat once every two or three weeks. Longer than that and it might mean the end of the season.

PS: Some of my cold adapted snakes have brumated up to five, or even six, months. Good luck....

Terry

I was just coming in to check the forum because my yearling Kunisar went off feed this weekend. He refused twice since Sunday, whereas he has been a perfect eater all year long. Since he's not due for a shed, and still somewhat active, I was wondering if it's time to start cooling already. Based on the posts here, it looks like that would be correct.

So if I start cooling now, when should I pull him back out? He did NOT brumate as a hatchling - I don't know if that makes any difference.

>>I was just coming in to check the forum because my yearling Kunisar went off feed this weekend. He refused twice since Sunday, whereas he has been a perfect eater all year long. Since he's not due for a shed, and still somewhat active, I was wondering if it's time to start cooling already. Based on the posts here, it looks like that would be correct.
>>
>>So if I start cooling now, when should I pull him back out? He did NOT brumate as a hatchling - I don't know if that makes any difference.

I wouldn't start cooling him, yet. First, it's been less than a week since he didn't eat. He's probably not that hungry. I'd give him a couple weeks or more. Second, he's only a yearling. At this age he might even go w/o a brumation again.

If you put him down in October, you could take him out in Feb, for four months brumation, or Mar, for five months brumation. He should be able to handle these lengths if brumated at cool enough temps, like 50-55*F. Just my 2cents. Good luck...

TC

Hi Billy
Welkom to the world of "funny eaters". When working with European and some Asian ratsnakes You will find that some of them don`t work as a clock. Refusing food for months even years (like some of my situla) can happen, and the worst thing to do is to panic. I think I have about 30 adults, that only feeds in the absolut early spring and nothing more that year. Sometimes I can get a little and very small food items in them in the Autum, and especially something without a strong smell. I use a lot of Natalmice, for the tricky eaters. They absolutely prefers them to laboratory mice and rats. Wild mice are also used after a month in the freezer.
I don`t think that it will help chancing the humidity. I tried it also from stone dry to a swamp without any good results. Lovering the temperature would be better. Kunasir climacophora lives in a quite cold climate.
I havent found any wetherstation near Kunasir but this one isn`t that far away http://www.wunderground.com/global/stations/47489.html
64*F today :-}
Maybe that site could give you an idea on what temperature they should kept.
I hope that will help you
Best wishes
Søe
Reptilia-Denmark

Thank you Terry and Søe

At least I'm not crazy. I guess the key is just cooling him down soon. I'll try to offer him food for another few weeks, and then I'll give up and cool him down until spring. If he's anything like last year, he should pig out once he starts eating in the spring.

Thanks again,
Billy

Billy,
I keep 2.3.0 E. climacophora. My adults are starting to slow down in terms of feeding, but were absolutely voracious during the spring and summer. My '06 Shirohebi male is still gobbling as many mice as he is offered, and doesn't seem inclined to slow down any time soon.

It's interesting that you bring up both feeding and shedding issues. I have found that when reluctant to eat, offering a meal within hours of shedding tends to be accepted. I also have found that a bad shed seems to annoy this species, and individuals go off food until it is remedied.

Perhaps it's just my environment, but the adults soak for 24 hours before shedding. And, for some weird reason, all 4 shed at the same time. It's not unusual to find bluish-green noses poking out of margerine containers/water containers at the
same time.

I cut an access hole in the lid of a large container, and half fill it with water. Unless too warm, they don't tend to soak except just before shedding. I also lightly spray the enclosure 1x/day between when the animal goes into blue and the eyes clear. This produces perfect sheds almost every time.

This is an awesome species to keep--hope this helps!

rgds,
althea

I've kept a few but haven't bred yet. Mine feed year round with a lay off in mid summer (for about two months). I keep them at 75-78F and on aspen. They definitly appreciate the misting I give them weekly. I started that after shedding problems staeted on my big female-which I have had no more problems since.

Frank
-----
"The luxury of not getting involved departed with the last lifeboat Skipper..."

Do you know where yours are from? TC had the interesting comment about their long north-to-south range. I'm curious about how much of the difference in results is due to the husbandry differences or to origin.

Thanks,
Billy
Phillyherping

I don't. Unfortunately, the pair I have now came from two different dealer over a couple years. They are definitely unrelated. the female turned green much later than the male who will likely be blueish at maturity.

My male is about 3, the female 5-6. I understand the male has to be four before I can try breeding.

Frank
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"The luxury of not getting involved departed with the last lifeboat Skipper..."

>>I don't. Unfortunately, the pair I have now came from two different dealer over a couple years. They are definitely unrelated. the female turned green much later than the male who will likely be blueish at maturity.
>>
>>My male is about 3, the female 5-6. I understand the male has to be four before I can try breeding.
>>
>>Frank

Frank, I don't think it matters how old the male is as long as he is big and strong enough to handle the female. You could try him. TC

I was going of the description in the German ratsnake book. I admit I am impatient, as he is big enough to do the job if he were a yellow rat. Will put them together soon.

Frank
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"The luxury of not getting involved departed with the last lifeboat Skipper..."

Just an update - he's been eating about once a week. Last week another mouse, and yesterday he wolfed down a pile of pinkies like they were candy, so I'm feeling better about putting him down for the winter in another month or so.

Thanks again for all the comments,

Billy
Phillyherping