Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have a pair of rubbers I estimate to be born in 2003.

Last year they only ate for 3 weeks in April, so this year I decided to make better observations.

Here is what I have so far-

Went into brumation 12/1/2006 and kept at 38-40F.

Male-

Out of brumation 2/22/2007
Weight on 2/22/2007= 34g

First meal was taken 3/24/07 (1 f/t pink rat "only thing they touch"
Weight on 3/25/07= 37g

Second meal 3/29/2001 (2 f/t pink rats)
Weight on 3/29/07 = 44g

Female

Out of brumation 3/11/07
Weight on 3/11/07= 44g

First meal was taken 3/24/07 (1 f/t pink rat)
Weight on 3/25/2007= 47g

Second meal 3/29/2001 (2 f/t pink rat)
Weight on 3/29/07 = 58g

I am hoping they eat for more than 3 weeks this year….we will see!

Chris

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Christopher E. Smith
Contact
Captive Bred Herps

Chris,
Since I mimic natural conditions, I turn off all lights and heat sources near the middle or end of Oct. at which time my captive specimens enter brumation. Since males are found in the month of February locally, as you have done, I bring them out of brumation at that time--usually in mid to 3rd week in Feb. Females I usually leave in brumation until near the end of March or first of April. But this year, I had a batch of pinkly lab mice at just the right size in the second week of March so turned on the light / heat source at that time for the largest 6 females I am maintaining. Some took meals a day or so later.

As it stands, all of the adult females (12) I am maintaining have taken at least one meal thus far, the last two females taking meals this evening. I am maintaining 8 adult males and three have taken meals. It is not unusual for adult males to fasts until mid to late May or even early June.

The juveniles and subadults are generally the last to emerge from brumation. I have quite a few of those guys so have left them in their torpid state as it has been generally cool here in western Oregon this March. Soon as it begins to warm up outside and some of the small boas begin to stir, I will then begin offering them prey. I have two males born in 2002, both in excellent condition for their lengths, that are half the weight of your male.

Don't have any idea as to why your boas would cease taking prey beyond April. Perhaps it has something to do with the conditions under which you maintain the specimens. Do you turn off your heat source during the night time hours as occurs in the wild or do you maintain you specimens at higher than normal outside temperatures at night and during the night?

Richard F. Hoyer

Richard,

After taking the boas out of brumation I have them on heat tape for about 1-2 weeks which they sometimes sit on. Then I keep them at room temp.

Room temps run about 75-78F during day, 68-72ish at night.

I know I have talked to you about this before, but I find it interesting they will not take mice. They will only take pinky rats and prefer f/t over live big time.

Let me know what you think about the temps.

Thanks,

Chris

Photo from last season.....

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Christopher E. Smith
Contact
Captive Bred Herps

Chris,
Whatever works for individual obviously differs. But from my standpoint, both your day time and especially your night time temperatures are far too high if such temperatures are maintained throughout the active season. Those temperatures might be expected at low elevations during the warmest times of year.

But even at higher elevations, night time subterranean temperatures are likely to fall into the 50 degree range by early morning hours. Surface temperatures in the mountains at this time of year often fall below freezing and are generally quite cool even during mid summer. Subterranean temperatures fluctuate to a much lesser degree than do surface temperatures and of course, native snakes will seek out their preferred temperature be they on the surface or underground.

Right now, the temperatures beneath my hides during the daylight hours (presently at 12 hrs. daylight / 12 hours dark) may get up to the high 60's, possibly low 70's. Night time temperatures are allowed to fall into the low to upper 40's in response to current outside temperatures. It just takes boas a longer time to digest their meals at this time of year. But that is what is now occurring in the wild. As a matter of fact, my conditions are actually somewhat artificial in some respects as it has been a very cool this spring so daytime temperatures in the wild have generally remained in the 50's and probably not much above mid 60s on the ground surface for much of March.

Another aspect of my setup is that I maintain adult specimens in large cages or aquaria that allows them a choice as to temperature conditions. And even though I have a hide over which there is a heat source, some boas purposely seek out hides at the coolest part of the cage ---- even during mid summer.

Some boas will readily take lab mice while other won't. Given enough time and patience, I believe I have gotten all boas to eventually to take lab mice but for some, it took longer than two active seasons (years). This is why I sometime search and find nestlings of native species of small mammals (small lizard as well) and also maintain a lab colony of our native Deer Mouse (Peromyscus maniculatus). I have never tried lab rats as I choose not to maintain that species. My son does and has had good success as I believe have others besides yourself.

Richard F. Hoyer

Hello All,

I am just getting into rubber boa's and I don't or haven't had my snakes in brumation ever. I have had these three (2girls & a boy; I think) for about a year. And the man I got them from said that he did not put them into brumation either. So are they going to want to breed this year?

EvaMarie Bybee

EvaMarie,
If your specimens are adults and if the females are in reproductive (robust) condition, at this time of year you should be able to run your thumb down the ventral surface with a slight pressure and count the ova. And if both the male and either female are in the reproductive mood, by placing them together the male would then court the female or females.

I have never tried not having my boas undergo brumation at the normal time. I don't know for certain but suspect it may be necessary for the species undergo brumation before they will successfully breed and produce young.

Richard F. Hoyer