Disclaimer-This may be long. Also the views I express are my own opinions and observations. They may contrast or may be congruent to those of other keepers, but I guess that is what can be good about these forums: keepers being able to share their own experiences, while learning from the experiences of others. Other Wood Turtle enthusiasts (Ken, dragoncjo, etc.)please chime in, as we can all learn from each other.
I have done field research and observations on G. insculpta and have cared for them in captive settings. I think we can agree that the basis for keeping any chelonian species in captivity is by understanding their natural habits, habitats, and interactions within their own and other species. I also believe that one of the main necessities in chelonian husbandry that does not get taken into account as strongly as the other husbandry necessities (lighting, filtration, temperature, food, etc.) is physiological well being, including stress factors. This particularly applies to Wood Turtles.
In both my field and captive observations of Wood Turtles I have found that 1. They need considerable amounts of space per turtle. Especially adult males who do not like to share area with other males. 2. Except during mating and hibernating congregations, they tend to be either solitary or found in very small congregations. In MY field experiences I have found no more than 3 Wood Turtles max in any one given stream pool outside of breeding/hibernation. It might be noted that when I have found a few per pool, they either consist of adults and sub-adults, a male and female, or a male fighting another male for rights to both a female and the stream pool.
Basically it comes down to space. Females can tend to get stressed when not given enough of their own space away from males, as males will find every aquatic opportunity to mount a female. Also, males can pose a threat to females by being over aggressive and/or holding them underwater too long. In addition males can be extremely aggressive to other males.
In a captive setting, I personally would go by NO LESS than 1 Wood Turtle per 4-5 sq.ft. of space. In the size parameters you are talking about 10-15 sq.ft this would equate to 3 adult Wood Turtles. In that size, a 1 male, 2 females ratio or 0 males, 3 females ratios would be most appropriate. Based on the equation, your 8 turtle colony would require at least an enclosure 32 x 32 ft. Preferably more. I am not trying to be discouraging just giving my truthful opinion.
As far as the enclosure goes, I think the three most important things to think about are the water feature or features, barriers (fallen logs, bushes, boulders, etc.) to break sight lines between turtles, and the enclosure wall.
Water - Cool, circulating or flowing water is a must, as these turtles naturally occupy clear-clearish streams and rivers for much of their time. In my opinion the best water feature for G. insculpta would be a lengthly stream featuring several deeper pools. Of course, this can be expensive, so at the minimum, a large pool with varying depths and circulating water. Wood Turtles are aquatic hibernators and breeders, being found in stream pools roughly 2 ft. or deeper during hibernation. (Breeding takes place in any depth of water, though shallower water is often recommended as more of an insurance policy for the safety of the female) Due to your living in the cooler Atlanta area, your Wood Turtles would need this deeper pool in which they will probably lay on the bottom or lodge themselves amongst underwater features such as rocks or driftwood snags during the winter months of the year.
Barrier - Place logs, boulders, hide-boxes, etc. to give more comfort to the individual turtles and to break sight lines. I would plant the enclosure with copious amounts of hardy small trees, shrubs, hostas, and any other hardy plant that both obstructs sight lines, provides shade and cover, and can withstand the trampling of adult wood turtles. You can also plant one area of the enclosure as a meadow or wet field to give various habitats and natural food resources. These turtles are like small tanks and will attempt to trample everything in their path. I had a friend who planted her G. insculpta enclosure with soft bodied plants, such as flowers, etc. only to have her two wood turtles lay waste to the entire enclosure in a short amount of time. Also, choose shrubs that offer hiding spaces and room to move about underneath them (ie. azaleas, rhododendron, yews, etc.) these will be more beneficial than such things as holly shrubs or blue spruce shrubs which offer very little movement underneath. Hostas are good plants to have in the enclosure as they are relatively sturdy, give shade, and are a favorite food of slugs and snails which the turtles will munch on.
Enclosure - I find the best enclosures for Wood Turtles are solid wood fences or barriers at least twice the length of the wood turle (7.5 in. wood turtle needs approx. 14-15 inch high barrier or more, or brick or concrete walls. Going back to the stress factor, having gaps in the enclosure where the turtles can see outside can lead to stress of them knowing their is a "world beyond their enclosure". I would definitely install a lip around top edge of the fence or barrier to deter them from trying to climb over the edge. Wood Turtles are excellend climbers so chain or wire fencing is no good. Also submerge either plastic or metal sheeting or stone slabs underneath the fencing to deter them from digging under.
As far as diet goes, they eat just about anything, but being naturally omnivorous, keeping a good variety of fruits, vegetables, and meats is best. They tend to eat out of the water, though may forage in the shallows and bottom for crustaceans, amphibian, and arthropod larvae.
Good luck! Let me know what you think! P.S. I am a fellow Georgian, living in Savannah.
-JG
