Anyone familier with Dischidia nummularia, Dischidia sp. Geri, Dischidia ovata, or Hoya curtisii?? I know you have to mount them or something??? Could you mount them on oak bark? Could you just grow them in soil?
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Anyone familier with Dischidia nummularia, Dischidia sp. Geri, Dischidia ovata, or Hoya curtisii?? I know you have to mount them or something??? Could you mount them on oak bark? Could you just grow them in soil?
The Dischidia will need a substrate, but can be trained to climb the background. They aren't true epiphytes. So you could plant it at the base, and then train it to go up the oak bark. Or, if you take my second suggestion about gluing the oak bark to the glass and stuff the concavity of it with sphagnum or substrate, you could plant it at the top and let it drape down over the bark. The Hoya would work the same way. They are closely related.
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Patty
Pahsimeroi, Idaho
Dendrobates: auratus blue, auratus Ancon Hill, tinctorius azureus, leucomelas. Phyllobates: vittatus, terribilis, lugubris. Epipedobates: anthonyi tricolor pasaje. Ranitomeya fantastica, imitator, reticulata. Adelphobates castaneoticus, galactonotus. Oophagia pumilio Bastimentos. (updated systematic nomenclature)
Okay.. so you're i can glue down my background with silicon or aquarium sealant and fill the cracks up with dirt..which i could use for planting broms. or Dischidia nummularia?
You can attach your bromes to the bark no matter which way you attach the bark to the background, either solidly using the Great stuff, or stuffing the concave back with substrate of some sort. The Dischidia can either be planted below the bark and trained up it, or if you choose to tamp soil and substrate behind the bark instead of filling it with Great Stuff and leveling it flat, you can plant the Dischidia on the top of this, provided you leave a gap between the top of the bark and the cover, into where you have filled with the substrate and let it drop over the edge of the bark from the top. You will probably need to water this as well as misting it.
I'm trying to be helpful, but I think I'm just mostly getting dizzy and need to go to bed.
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Patty
Pahsimeroi, Idaho
Dendrobates: auratus blue, auratus Ancon Hill, tinctorius azureus, leucomelas. Phyllobates: vittatus, terribilis, lugubris. Epipedobates: anthonyi tricolor pasaje. Ranitomeya fantastica, imitator, reticulata. Adelphobates castaneoticus, galactonotus. Oophagia pumilio Bastimentos. (updated systematic nomenclature)
How big are bromeliads roots? Would a normal sized drill bit do the job of making a hole big enough to mount a bromeliad?
If the bromeliad is one with a stolon, which is a stem from the bottom of the pup cutting, the drill hole only needs to be big enough to contain this before attaching the brome by other means. Or if it doesn't have an attached stolon (most Neoregelias do) you can just dig out a little area to help support the base a bit. You can also perhaps find a rough area in the bark that the base can just be supported by. Since I last posted attachment methods, someone else with experience suggested that you can also use "Liquid nails," and considered it better, and less damaging to the plant leaves it contacts than silicone. There are many kinds of "Liquid Nails" products, but I would guess the one made for wood would be the most logical choice.
The attachment roots themselves are relatively small, depending upon the brome type and will develop later.
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Patty
Pahsimeroi, Idaho
Dendrobates: auratus blue, auratus Ancon Hill, tinctorius azureus, leucomelas. Phyllobates: vittatus, terribilis, lugubris. Epipedobates: anthonyi tricolor pasaje. Ranitomeya fantastica, imitator, reticulata. Adelphobates castaneoticus, galactonotus. Oophagia pumilio Bastimentos. (updated systematic nomenclature)
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