Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I just got a Mali Uromastyx 2 days ago. He was active and healthy at the pet store, I already had a desert spiny lizard that is a quarter of the adult uromastyx size. I realized today after two days of too low temps for the Mali that my lights were too far away from him, and my thermometor was not reading in the right location, I have changed the lighting, put the non responsive( exept for opening his eyes to look at you) lizard in the hot area, after about 20min., he stood up and was opening his mouth, a little puffed up, then was panting,(venting) then turned his head out of the hot area and was still venting. He hasnt eaten in two days, Ive been taking out the food as soon as it wilts and giving him fresh greens.
I moved him into a little less hot spot, but he's still not active or eating.
I removed the desert spiny lizard from the cage yesterday, thinking he might be stressing out the Mali, the spiny was showing signs of aggression, head bobbing, sitting on top if the Mali. I talked to a breeder who said that the desert spiny and Mali should be ok together if the Mali is larger. Im keeping them apart untill I get the Mali eating and adjusted.
I live in PA. Coming from the pet store to home he was exposed to the cold ( in and out of the car, he was in a box).
Should I leave him in the hot spot? even if he's venting and hasnt eaten?
Thank you for any help.

MIne was the same way when I got it.... He would hide a lot and didn't eat for almost two weeks. Then after that he adjusted and became active and started eating a ton. Give your Mali time to acclimate to the new environment, and in the mean time do not disturb him by holding him or looking at him. Just let him be and in a in a week or two he'll come around just like mine. The only time he could see you is when you put food inside the cage, and if he is not eating you should put a shallow bowl of water inside the cage for him to drink because Uro get the water they need from the veggies and greens they eat, but yours is not eating so leave the a water bowl in there for him incase he is dehydrated or thirsty. I hope I put your mine at ease!

You should NEVER Have two Different species of Lizards in the same enclosure.

Uro's can take MONTHS to adjust to a new home/enclosure. Just make sure your temps are correct, you are feeding the right diet, do NOT soak him/her and do NOT handle him/her. Leave him/her alone. Pulling them out out of their hides is very stressful. They are not "cuddle" pets, they are "observation" pets.

Temps should be:
Basking site: 125-135 degrees
Hot end: 100 degrees (ambient temp)
Cool End: 80-85 degrees
Night Time: 70-75 degrees

Diet should include:
Endive, Escarole and dandelion leaves.

Items that should be given sparingly are bok choi, grated squash & zuchinni, soaked lentils & lima beans, bell peppers (all colors), edible (non-pesticide) flowers such as pansies, nasturtiums, roses and hibicus.

You need to have the following in your enclosure:
1. At least two Digital thermometers (not the stick on or dial kind as they are very inaccurate)
2. At least two low and tight hides, one on the hot end and one on the hot end.
3. An enclosure AT LEAST 48" x 24" x 24", Uros need a LARGE amount of space no matter what size they are.
4. UVB bulb & basking bulb OR a Mercury Vapor Bulb (emmits heat and UVB) and a Ceramic Heat emmitter if needed to maintain night time temps.

Things you DO NOT NEED:
1. Water in the Enclosure
2. Other Lizards of any kind
3. Insects of any kind
4. Calcium Sand (this has the potential to kill them)

Please read up on Uros and do some research, there is a great Care sheet at www.deerfernfarms.com. I'm sorry if I sound harsh but getting the proper temps and diet will greatly improve the attitude of your Uro.

Hi,
Thank you, I want all of the experienced information I can get. I e-mailed deer fern farms, he/she said that the desert spiny could be fine with the Uro, if the Uro is a lot bigger. I have the spiny out of the enclosure though. And am trying to find it a new home.
Its good to hear from both responses that this can be normal, and not to disturb him. I have been worried and moving him from area to area since he seems immobile.
The first responder said that I should put water in the enclosure while he is not eating. Do you dissagree?
Once he is aclimated and eating, is this a lizard that still does not like to be held? even once in awhile?
The only other large lizards I have kept are iguana's, and I lived in So. California then, heating and such were not such an issue.

Thank you for your help, personal experience is invaluable,and I dont have it in this case.
Jennifer

I got my Uros from Doug and he told us only to keep Uros with Uros and no other type of lizard. But he has been keeping them much longer than me.

Water should only be put in the enclosure on a Temporary basis, like a small lid and only for a few hours each day.

Once your Uro is acclimated, he/she should only be handled for tank cleanings, weigh-ins and trips to the vet. They get stressed very easy and cool down very fast and can't be away from their heat source for more than a few minutes.

There is another good source of information at www.repticzone.com, tons of very informative Uro owners that would be happy to help when you have questions.

Good Luck with your Uro.

Definately be cautious with the water - you can put a very shallow (jar lid) of it in the tank in the morning. The high temps should evaporate it pretty quickly.

Uros do take a long time to come around - do you have the correc ttemps now? 125-135 basking? Measured digitally? Good qualitiy UVB? Also, hides are very important for these guys, they are kind of particular in their hide needs - they like low, narrow hides they can wedge themselves in. The hide should be low enough that it brushes the uros back when standing, and narrow enough he fits comfortably but securely. The easiest way to make hides that suit them are by using tiles, paving stones, etc. I use paving stones with a slab of tile across the top, if the paving stones are too tall i use broken (with the edges smoothed) peices of tile stacked up to the appropriate height with another peice of tile on top of it. You can then stack these constructions so the Uro has several hiding spots and can achieve the proper basking temps.

If the temps are good, the UVB is good and the hides are good - then just leave him be. They are nervous critters and can take A LONG time to fully settle down.

As a rule, they are not lizards that should be handled as it stresses them out, there are a few exceptions but mostly uros are display animals only
-----
1.1 Bearded Dragons
2.2 Leopard Geckos
1.0 Uromastyx (Mali)
1.1 Corn snakes
0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake
1.0 Rosy Boa
1.1 Green Anoles
1.1 House Geckos
0.0.2 Flying Geckos
0.0.1 Red Eye Tree Frog

Yes, I got the temp. right now, and am lowering one of his hides, he just started moving around yesterday, and eating today.
Thank you for all of your help. Pet stores should not sell these guys without any direction.
You two and Doug have helped to educate me a lot!
Thank you