First of all, a Mali Uromastyx is TOTALLY different from an Egyptian Uromastyx, BUT .. they both have similar care requirements. The main difference is that Egyptian Uromastyx can get up to 2 FEET long and a Mali averages about 18" long at full growth. They are very slow growers and won't achieve full adulthood until they are about 5 years old.
ENCLOSURE:
They must be in a MINIMUM 40 Gallon Breeder Tank to begin with then moved to a 48" x 24" x 24" enclosure once they are over 7" Long. With the Egyptian, you will need a end enclosure measuring at minimum 72" x 24" x 24".
LIGHTING / HEATING:
You will need to provide a Basking area of at least 125 degrees, a Hot end of the tank with an ambient air temperature of 100 degrees and a cool end of 80 degrees. Night time temps should not go below 75 degrees. You will probably have to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter to achieve the night time temps. DO NOT USE RED OR BLUE LIGHTS AT NIGHT, this will disrupt their sleep patterns. AT minimum, Daytime lights you will need include: a Basking light and a UVB light, each should be no closer than 12" from the basking area. The best lighting would be an Mercury Vapor Bulb and shouldn't be any closer than 12" from the basking area. You will need to experiment with different wattages of bulbs to get the right temps.
SUBSTRATE:
Since the Uromastyx is so small, keep him/her on PAPERTOWELS ! NO CALCIUM SAND !! This can kill them. After he/she is over 7" long, then they can be on washed sifted play sand, tile, millet seeds or pool filter sand.
FOOD:
ABSOLUTELY NO CRICKETS OR WORMS OR PROTEIN OF ANY KIND!! These animals are Vegetarians and only eat greens. The best foods to feed them are: Endive, Escarole, Dandelion greens and organic spring mix. Every couple of days, you can mix in Bok Choi, Grated Squash & Zuchinii, chopped up bell peppers (any color) and edible, pesticide free flowers such as pansies, nastursiums, roses and hibiscus.
ENCLOSURE DECORATIONS:
These animals are not much of a climber, they do not need high branches to climb. They do however need low hides, at least two, one on each end of the enclosure. The best thing to use for hides is a piece of slate with two pavers under it to hold it up, this can also double as a basking area as the slate holds heat very well.
They do NOT like to be handled, they are an observation pet and should only be handled for cage cleaning, weighing and vet visits. You may want to take your animal with a poo sample to a vet that is experienced in reptiles and have them check for parasites. Most wild caught Uro's will have parasites.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PUT A UROMASTYX IN WITH ANY OTHER TYPE OF LIZARD OR AMPHIBIAN... they are solitary animals.
