Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello,
I'm not really new to the site but I'm quiet, I also didn't feel like using Kingsnake's amazing search tool to find archives for this and I'm having a bit of a concern.

Here's what's up, I have 3 Ambilobe panthers whom I take a lot of pride in even though they are new arrivals to me. My male is very healthy and was born on 8/29/08, I've only had him since the 21st of February. He eats like nothing alive, and I would think that he gets enough vitamins (as a rule I err on the side of too little with supplements with all reptiles) but of course I did not realize that Beta Carotenes aren't quickly transferred to what I've seen called "preformed A" on these forums. He drinks water, sheds in basically one hour (it's quick, I exaggerate but it did happen earlier today) and flashes colors at his "ladies" whom he has only ever seen (they are only one month older than he is, they aren't under his sight in their enclosure and they don't get any "out" time really yet)

The bad news is that I noticed that the male (his name is Mantra) has one eye closed, but it looked so unaffected and healthy that I took him for sleeping. It does not seem to be Photo Kerato Conjuctivitis or whatever it is (sorry can't remember... the UVB bulb eye problem...) because the eye doesn't seem swelled or shrunk... or even bruised, wet, dry or "stuck". It looks fine, "sleeping". I have been told that he may be having Vitamin A problems even though I'm a great gut-loader... well... until now!

Not sure what to do? His colors are vibrant (he's like the chameleon dreamcoat) and he is up high (about seven feet from the floor on his perch if he wants), humid (usually about 60 when the mist is dry, much higher and I only drip for about 10 minutes a day total because I'm a germiphobe), warm (basking 90-100 with cheap therm reads 100, room is controlled 75F so his cage is around 85 I'd say), plenty of ventilation with a box fan running on low in the room. Plenty of clean foliage and a nice "tree" of branches throughout the leaves, 4x2x2

Unfortunately he gets mostly crickets and no roaches or silks (workin' on it, it's been cold here in Kansas) and I dust with repcal phosfree with D3... like every two months really. I do dust with reptivite occasionally though.The Crickets eat collards (easy for me to grow) and zuchini mostly with the occasional yam. But if the chameleon can't process Beta Carotenes very well... well I'm no dietician that's for sure so I'm kind of baffled.
Any help will be appreciated!

What brand and type (compact or long linear tube) UVB light are you using?

You said there's a fan in the room...is it blowing on the cage at all? Is the cage near a window?

You said..."I dust with repcal phosfree with D3... like every two months really. I do dust with reptivite occasionally though.The Crickets eat collards (easy for me to grow) and zuchini mostly with the occasional yam"...I dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous in most feeder insects.

I dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 from SUPPLEMENTS can build up in the system and cause problems so don't overdo it.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder with a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed vitamin A) can not lead to an overdose like the prEformed can. Preformed is exactly that...comes to the animal already formed and ready to do its job. It comes from animal sources and man-made sources like palmitate and acetate. Excess prEformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. Now comes the problem...it has not been proven that all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene to prEformed vitamin A. Because of this some people give a little to them evey once in a while.

Gutloading crickets...I use an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrot, sweet potato, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, etc.). The wider the better the chance that the chameleons will get what they need IMHO.

Calcium, D3, vitamin A, and phos. are all important players and need to be in balance. You need to look at what you feed the insects, the chameleon and what supplements you use when trying to balance them.

Once the females are about 5 months old you should put a suitable place for them to dig in the cage since they can lay eggs without mating.

The eye problem...it could be from a vitamin A problem or it might not be. If you were to give it a little prEformed vitamin A it might work...but then it might also cause problems (like organ damage). I can't tell you what to do about it...I'm not a vet. A vet should be able to run some tests to find out the levels of vitamin A.

Sorry I can't offer you more help.

I have a similar routine.

A vet visit wouldnt hurt to rule out infection, something stuck in the eye, that sort of thing. And if the vet suggests preformed vitamin A, well a controlled dose based on weight as directed by the vet would be okay. I've never personally given preformed A direct to my panther chameleons. But I do also offer a wide variety of insects, well gutloaded.

Calcium (generally without D3) should be on every cricket, in my opinion, as crickets are naturally low in calcium vs higher phosphorous. Need to balance it out. Gutloading can only add so much calcium.
With other insects supplementation with calcium may not always be necessary.
D3 supplementation may also not be necessary, at least not often, if you're chameleon gets adequate UVB.
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Sandra
BC Canada